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Old 03-11-2012 | 06:07 AM
  #10576  
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Tank you a lot. This helps.

Mihael
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Old 03-11-2012 | 10:31 AM
  #10577  
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Originally Posted by Redline_Revo
(aka dad) doesnt go apeshit about pulling it apart.
(he thinks im incapable of unscrewing a few screws, even though ive done it a million times to my other cars)
That's how I learned how to work with computers. I would screw around with it and break stuff, then have to quickly figure out how to fix it before my dad got home.

As long as you don't expect him to fix it if you do screw something up, then go for it!
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Old 03-11-2012 | 10:37 AM
  #10578  
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Originally Posted by TeKiNxRampage
Nope i havent had a problem with the wheels sticking out to far (therefore causing rubbing) and i have the proline adapters with hazards all the way around. The only rubbing i experienced was when i set my body height to low. I put duct tape on the fenders underneath just to make sure no rubbing occurs and chips the paint
I use drywall tape (a fiber weave with mild adhesive) and shoo goo on my wheel wells and all along the out edges of the body and around the body post holes. Much nice finish than duct tape
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Old 03-11-2012 | 10:44 AM
  #10579  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
IMO, the reason to use a sway bar is to help square the chassis coming off a corner with that big ole 225 gram (9-10 oz) body way higher than the chassis center of gravity.

Kinwald has done a good job of putting them on a number of SC chassis - Xfactory and AE.
Yea that's why I run it in the rear. My local indoor tracks (one carpet one clay) have doubles right at the exit of 180 deg turns so you have to take it like a "D" shape where you square up the rear quickly and get traction from both wheels to clear the jump cleanly.

I take it off on the outdoor track since it's much more rough due to rain ruts, exposed rock, etc. since the sway bar lifts both tires when one tire is elevated due to a bump causing loss of traction.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 01:06 PM
  #10580  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Yea that's why I run it in the rear. My local indoor tracks (one carpet one clay) have doubles right at the exit of 180 deg turns so you have to take it like a "D" shape where you square up the rear quickly and get traction from both wheels to clear the jump cleanly.

I take it off on the outdoor track since it's much more rough due to rain ruts, exposed rock, etc. since the sway bar lifts both tires when one tire is elevated due to a bump causing loss of traction.
Why not run one on the front?

This is an older picture from when BK drove for XFactory, but this is far from impossible to DIY build on your own.

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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:00 PM
  #10581  
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Anyone have Avid Aluminum Steering Bellcranks they want to sell or know who has them in stock?
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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:13 PM
  #10582  
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From: hagerstown
Post sc/10

i have two sc10's i also have a slash and evader ext 2 brushed and a arrma fury but now my ? is this i got a set of cv shafts for my evader has anyone used them on anything else i want to try them on my sc10 and maybe get ride of the dog bones so what can of cv shafts would fit it and if i ut the on the truck whats going to change and how well it change
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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:24 PM
  #10583  
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Has anyone run the Reedy Sonic in their SCT? If so, how did work compared to other motors?
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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:32 PM
  #10584  
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Anyone got any recommendations for some different style body posts? I am constantly snagging my shirt on the body clips that hold the body height washers.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:36 PM
  #10585  
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Originally Posted by The Captain
Anyone got any recommendations for some different style body posts? I am constantly snagging my shirt on the body clips that hold the body height washers.
Trade them out for safety pins.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 05:51 PM
  #10586  
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My diff let loose the other night. Pulled it apart to see what went wrong.
The thrust bolt head sheared off! What would cause this to happen?
Faulty bolt? Maybe thrust bearing issue? I don't get it.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 06:22 PM
  #10587  
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i have had the thrust bolt head break off too, several times but that's running a 7.5 with ht rotor. I called MIP since i was using their kits at the time and they had never heard of suck a thing? i've always setup my diff's per b-fast instruction's and never had a problem with any of my 1/10 buggie's. just the sc10
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Old 03-11-2012 | 06:25 PM
  #10588  
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Hey guys, what diff balls do you reccommend? The stock ones ofcourse dont last or stay smooth very long.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 06:26 PM
  #10589  
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Originally Posted by sc10rr
have had the thrust bolt head break off too, several times but that's running a 7.5 with ht rotor. I called MIP since i was using their kits at the time and they had never heard of suck a thing? i;ve always setup my diff's per b0fast instruction's and never had a problem with any of my 1/10 buggie's. just the sc10
Well the SC10 is quite a bit heavier than the other models in the line, so random failures will be more frequent. Don't worry too much until after you replace it 2 or more times. It's probably just a weak bolt.
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Old 03-11-2012 | 07:15 PM
  #10590  
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so i gave up with selling my sc10, unless someone buys, I'm putting my esc and motor back in this beast

last time i used it it was loose on power, pushed off. Im running the maifield setup on it, one he used at the norcal hobbies track.

Some one throw me a setup here=]

indoor med bite dry clay. small amount of marbles
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