i measure my truck right under the servo and for the rear right under the transmission case.. but i've seen people measure all over the place.. just make sure to measure the same spot every time you drive the truck..

I would think the fuel line could be inconsistent depending if you need a hard value all the time for your limiting. May not matter much though for offroad.

Anyway, for what you want, you would need to add limiters to the inside of the shocks.

How do I keep my diff fluid in my diff as opposed to seeping out the right side out-drive?

I filled it with a synthetic grease that seemed to work excellently the first few batteries but kept coming out of the right side out drive. After about four 5000Mah Lipo batteries I've taken it apart and found about the same amount left in it that the factory put in it. Everything is coated for sure... but it's not full like I left it.

Are there better than factory o-rings to replace the ones behind the sun gears?

What's the consensus? Measuring ride height with the battery and body on, only battery or not battery and no body?

I measure it as it would run on the track. Seems kind of self-defeating to measure ride height without the battery at least and other electronics since they would affect ride height the most.

Anyone got an answer for this? I have no clue cuz I don't run the gear diffs. I guess that would be my clue: run a ball diff.

try a double gasket, maybe use a gasket sealer that comes in a tube.

I run ball diffs too, imo they help the back rotate better.


has anyone used the jconcepts pressure point tire for hard surface, dusty, low traction, clay tracks?

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=550

Im going to try a pair this weekend and run like maifield does, pressure points in the rear, double dees up front.

check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYfbw..._order&list=UL

Awesome, thanks. Got some Ofna yellows coming from the LHS.

I think the factory setup sheets are with everything on/in/installed except the body. Ride height is substantially lower with the body on. If you think about it, kind of hard to adjust ride height with the body on...

Not much to think about... just as easy to put it on to check and remove to adjust. Just wanted to see what most are doing. I have always checked mine with the battery in and no body.

Hey what's up guys. Just got a ft sc10 .. I've searched the thread and see alot of 17.5 discussion. But im wondering about blinky 13.5.. im shopping for a range of pinions. Was going to order 5 or 6 to use with the stock 84t spur. Maybe like 25 -30t?

75/23-26 depending on how small the track is.

So maybe should get a smaller spur to?

I run on a fairly large indoor track and when I run a 13.5 I use a 21/84 with great balance of torque and top speed. Motor temps never get over 135°.

IMO... I'd go with the 13.5 over the 17.5 (unless your track is really small). I just think you would like the feel of it's power more. As far as the gearing goes, I'm not quite sure, because I don't use a 13.5T motor(I have a 10.5T motor with a 87/18 gearing setup). And good choice on the FT... that's what I'm running right now, and love it Hope it all works out for you!