nedd help to get more rear traction ive moved the battery all the way back got 4.0 toe havy 4oz of weight ive tried everything ik of got green springs ive done wat people say to improve traction an reduce it reall confused an to an insult to traction i get to the end of the straight away and the truck gets all swrily like it does at the begging of the straight

I am getting my 8 and 9 year old boys sc10 trucks. What gets broken on these trucks....need a list of spairs. C-hubs, steering blocks, a-arms?

thanks in advance

It's terribly hard to understand what you're saying here due to quite a few spelling and grammar mistakes...

Regardless, with some track conditions traction will always be low enough to allow your described situation if you're not careful with the throttle. Soft springs and weight back should help, no doubt, but what's the ride height like on your truck? What tires are you running/what compound? Most importantly, what kind of track conditions are you running on?? (gotta mention these things up front to stand a chance of getting answers).

Front/rear stock arms are a must, front wheel/rear hub bearings, ball cups, maybe some body posts. I've crashed my RTR SC10 pretty heavily and have only required a-arms for repairs. A front aluminum chassis brace would be a good idea as well.

Swirly, eh?

Verb. The process of sticking someone's head in the toilet and flushing
I gave that retard a swirly!

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=swirly

Seriously, I got what you ment.

First, tires. Buy whatever tires (in whatever compound) the fastest guy in your class at your track is running.
Second, ride height. I recently purchased an AE ride height gauge, and only after that, did I discover how really bad a job I was doing to check ride height. You want to be about 29mm rear, 31mm front.
Third, camber. About 1 degree.

If that doesn't make things better, I suggest you get the fast guy at your track to take a couple of laps in your truck and get his feedback. I hate to tell you, but if he goes out and wheels the snot out of it, it might be you - but there's no way to know for sure.

And good luck.

I understand this. what I don't understand is why my slipper needs to be locked down with HT pads just to get it to raise barely an inch

Being a newbie rc'er myself and run this truck for about a month, I've had to replace the front bumper and also broke one A-arm (but replaced them all). I'd agree with the ball cups because mine are starting to slip off more often. These things really can take quite a beating! Find out what the best tire is for your track and get a set with foams. The rear foams in my RS RTR were really soft.

Never lock slipper down , its not a buggy & cannot raise the ft the same as...

A inch is mass tight , loosen a little , maybe a 1/2 to 1 full turn , will perform even better..

Normally about .5m to 2 m of thread showing above the slipper nut...

Aright...

I picked up two SC10RS's. One for me and one for the kiddo (10).



I've run 4x5KMah 40C batteries through mine so far. Track conditions are dry/swept hard pack dirt that gets watered on race day... but no water for practice. Plenty of small natural bumps (it's not billiard table smooth by any means) and not many jumps. No big jumps what so ever. It's a very tight track that most people would call a "Roval". It's got a long sweeper at both ends that leads onto the front straight. WOT all the way around, but then it gets really tight and technical. The track owner/designer is apparently pretty decent at what he does as the more you look at the track the more you learn about the line. It's not just your simple every day "flat" track with a few jumps in the straights and turns just because we need them. A person who knows how to walk a track will gain an advantage here for sure.


So far...

I've filled the diff with an old synthetic grease I had laying around. It felt great (stiffer than stock by a ways) for two batteries but now it's coming out the right side of the trans case at the out drive. How do I seal it in there better? I filled the diff but now after a couple batteries it feels a lot like the stock build.

I've moved from Gold to Blue springs on the front and removed all "pre-load" spacers.

I'm running 2.5* camber front and whatever it came with stock on the rear.

I moved the front upper damper mount inboard one hole compared to stock (It's now as far inboard as it'll go).

Rear is bones level, front is a bit lower than arms level. If I lift the front there is about 1/16" "slack" in the springs. By that I mean that they end up that distance from actually sitting against the top of the damper. Essentially "no preload" what so ever. 1/16" free damper with no spring at full extension.


Tired are stock... so stock SC10 front and JC Subcultures rear.





All of these things were done in order to get the truck to continue turning once on the throttle. It tends to be very drivable and to be honest "quite nice" coming in (10% drag brake) and across the apex, but any time I get on the throttle and/or have a bit of dust/berm under the front tires while I'm on the throttle it just doesn't want to turn. I'm assuming that everyone will tell me to use something like Subcultures or Calibers on the front... but that would throw off my corner entry... I'd like to leave that alone.

I'm running the slipper tight enough that it will extend the front dampers but it doesn't lift the wheels off the ground or anything.




Also...


I've left the dampers alone since I got the truck... but I did buy 25, 30 and 35Wt AE oil. As I recall it comes with 30Wt. Does one generally find that the damper build on an RTR is done competently or should I just go ahead and rebuild all four dampers?





CraigMBA...


Does "CC" mean anything to you?

Crowd-Control.

I too run on a small tight track(sometimes a larger one as well) and opted to move to a 3.5k Losi diff fluid blend against advice(from RCtech) that it will just leak out in no time flat. Well, folks it's been four packs(80min) and not one drip so far. Don't overfill it/fill it to the brim and it won't leak IMO. I reused the gasket as well.

For your track, I expect stock 30wt should do well especially if it doesn't have any real jumps as you say. If it's not broke, don't fix it eh? As long as your rebound is set appropriately and your not finding oil residue after every run you're good.

Uh-oh. That's too low.

Camber is really a personal thing. When I first started racing waaay back when I always ran more camber than just about everyone else (2 or 3 degrees). As tires have gotten softer and servos have gotten stronger, I don't run hardly any (.75-1 degrees) anymore.

That's okay, see above.

That's no bueno for a couple of reasons. First, the roll center is all wrong. Second, you have rake the wrong way. Third, having the spring unload like that is asking for all kinds of wild inconsistant handling issues. Lastly, with the front already that raked (all the factory guys run the front end slightly high, like 1 or 2mm more than the back), it can make getting in the corner really erratic, or push off.

But I think the reason it works in your truck, and the reason you can get away with all that camber, is...

The whole reason you're able to get away with this is the front tires are like rocks compared to the JC green subcultures. I almost always run the same tires F/R, and on surfaces like you describe, I either run Double Dees in green (if the track is starting to groove up or is blown off with a leaf blower where there is little dust) or Subcultures (if it's loose on top and not starting to groove up)

That's a combination of having those rocks up front and the bizarroworld setup to make them work.

Have you considered it might make it better? Borrow the rear tires off your kids truck, stick enough spacers under the spring to get the front slightly higher than the rear, and drive a couple of laps.

Sounds okay.

I'm sure it's easy to drive, but if it pushes that much it's easy to drive, it's sure to be slow compared to somebody else who's got enough front grip where they can make the corner and not have to use full lock to get there. You might also find it to be more consistant and easier to drive.

I almost always run the same tires FR and on both the 2w and 4w.

I'm a big fan of my standard setup sheet for tracks like the one you are running on: Change to whatever tires you think work best and have at it.

http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...rnats_2010.pdf


Maybe: I'm kind of partial to #5. And I knew a lady with a similar name long ago. Sweet girl.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=CC

Yes.

The AE springs fit over the losi buckets with an interference fit. They DO NOT MOVE at all. However, this is okay because the top of the spring can move and the shock travels up and down.

The interference is what keeps the spring straight, aligned, and away from the body.

No sweat, hope it helped.

As an effort to support the comunity we all use, I destroyed a set of AE greens and a set of TLR pinks to get you this info. Anyone with any further knowlege of springs, by all means, chime in people.

Brand Color Wire gauge
TLR Pink .0435
AE Green .0425

Explains why pink was too stiff IMO.

I'll just bite the bullet and buy some tires then. Have you used the Caliber 2.0 tires?

I'm mostly trying to get out of buying tires right now really. I just bought two RS's, two LiPo's and a charger along with a bunch of tuning parts etc. I guess my best bet is to pick up a set of Hazards and a set of medium Caliber 2.0s and throw the subs on the front and run the C2's on the rear? Then of course go about re-tuning it for the new shoes?

I'm assuming that adding pre-load (I hate that term...) to get the rake where you say it should be will mostly get my balance back. I hate to just throw away grip on one end though. Seems like a waste. Is there any reasone why I shouldn't run the rear lower instead of raising the front to get to what you'd say is "normal" rake? I could add limiters to the dampers to keep the body roll somewhat in check. We don't have any jumps that pose a threat at all...



The CC thing comes from a road racing website I frequent. There's a member there that goes by CraigMBA.

So, this is a big old dirt roadcourse/roval? Interesting. I'd take the front tires off your rig and put them on your kids rear, and swipe his rear tires for your fronts and redo your test session. See how it does.

You might hate it and decide what you need is what you have.

Oh yeah. I know that snarky bastard.

What happened is I got the racing jones real bad, and I can't afford the time to even club race real cars, much less the space, or even the money. You can do this for a reasonable amount of money and be competitive with some practice and some talent. And it all fits in a closet in the house.

Corner Carvers is a godsend on how things really work, by people who really make them work. I learned more from that one guy who was talking bout when he was Teo Fabi's engineer....or whatever. If you wanted to do some arcane thing and do it well, somebody there knew more than you did about it, and would share.