Sent you a PM

i ran the tc spec boosted with a 17.5 and it was a slow turd.The profiles are tuned down for the mod motors.You need the sxx stock spec or tekin rs.Trust me,get one of those two speedos and you think you have a whole new car.I run at westcoast and you need everthing you can in a boosted sc.Im geared at 84/22 with the tekin rs

Okay, so I built and installed my new AE Ball diff but when I reassemble the truck, it seems like one of the dogbones is not long enough. It slides right out of the wheel hub.

Did I do something wrong?

Thanks!

Believe ball diff adjustment screw should be located on the same side as the slipper. Do not know if having it on the other side of the trans would make a difference.

You will also want to confirm that the spring is in the deeper outdrive hole. Again, do not know if that will take care of your problem but something to check anyway.

This is a great you tube on how to build a ball diff. Hope it helps.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB7-q...840E96E89DD677

Do you guys run your battery more towards the rear of the tray or towards the front,

Cheers,

it depends on what you need,more traction move back,more steering move forward,i have mine in the middle

I referred to that same video while building it. I figured the problem out - I didn't transfer the o-rings from the old gear diff to the new one...

Thanks for your help though!

+1!

That's not exactly right.

Moving the ballast back (in this case the battery) will cause the chassis to turn in harder because of more weight transfer, and the additional weight on the rear tires will give more grip on power.

Moving the ballast forward will give the chassis more steady state traction on the front end (like on a skid pad).

For reference, I have 3oz of ballast on the chassis between the trans and the battery, and the battery is about 3/4" back from the servo bulkhead. When the bite is good I have the fastest lap times at the track (I'm usually TQ), but when it gets slick after it dries out, my chassis is impossible to be aggressive with - in 17.5 and with no timing. Moving the battery further forward made things worse.

Need some help/tips everyone... Took my sc10 to the track today and I was having problems with keeping my rear end from sliding all over the place. I run on a hard packed tight clay track with a 13.5 motor and gold barcodes in the front and rear...... Should I try loosening up the ball diff, loosen the spur, add rear swaybar? Basically any help would be greatly appreciated so that my rear is more planted and not sliding all over the track like it has been and spinning out alot.........

What's your diff like?

Soften the rear springs?

Lower the rear ride height a bit?

put on .5 degree rear hubs.. That extra 1/2 degree of rear toe on top of the 3 degrees it has stock really changes things.

Do you have weight on the rear of chassis? if no, I'd throw 1 1/2 oz or so under rear shock tower behind battery... try it and check lap times, add more and try again, stop adding weight when laptimes slow down.

just .02cents.. try any and see if it helps.

edit: if that's the first time at that track.. don't assume those tires are what you need. Sometimes the easiest thing is to try different tire combo's as they REALLY make or break the truck regardless of setup.

I have run the rear sway bar on smooth and rough tracks. What you need to do is define what you need to improve you vehicle's handling. If the smooth track has a lot of traction and you have all the rear bite you need then you can add the rear sway bar to increase steering traction. On carpet this makes a lot of sense. The effect can be done with springs and shock oil as well so that is why most set-up sheets do not use the sway bar. I took mine off over a year ago.