SC10 Thread
#7262
Need some help/tips everyone... Took my sc10 to the track today and I was having problems with keeping my rear end from sliding all over the place. I run on a hard packed tight clay track with a 13.5 motor and gold barcodes in the front and rear...... Should I try loosening up the ball diff, loosen the spur, add rear swaybar? Basically any help would be greatly appreciated so that my rear is more planted and not sliding all over the track like it has beenWhat and spinning out alot.........
Just some simple setup changes,what's your setup
#7263
Soften the rear springs?
Lower the rear ride height a bit?
put on .5 degree rear hubs.. That extra 1/2 degree of rear toe on top of the 3 degrees it has stock really changes things.
Do you have weight on the rear of chassis? if no, I'd throw 1 1/2 oz or so under rear shock tower behind battery... try it and check lap times, add more and try again, stop adding weight when laptimes slow down.
just .02cents.. try any and see if it helps.
edit: if that's the first time at that track.. don't assume those tires are what you need. Sometimes the easiest thing is to try different tire combo's as they REALLY make or break the truck regardless of setup.
Lower the rear ride height a bit?
put on .5 degree rear hubs.. That extra 1/2 degree of rear toe on top of the 3 degrees it has stock really changes things.
Do you have weight on the rear of chassis? if no, I'd throw 1 1/2 oz or so under rear shock tower behind battery... try it and check lap times, add more and try again, stop adding weight when laptimes slow down.
just .02cents.. try any and see if it helps.
edit: if that's the first time at that track.. don't assume those tires are what you need. Sometimes the easiest thing is to try different tire combo's as they REALLY make or break the truck regardless of setup.
I run at coyote hobbies in the high desert...... I am running green springs in the rear with 30w shock oil, -1 camber, and I believe I have my ride height around 24mm-26mm or so...........
#7265
It's a great class. 2WD SC requires very low maintenance and the least amount of part wear in comparison to 2WD Buggy and 4WD SC, in my experience at least. Not to mention spec 17.5 has the tightest competition, but I do enjoy Pro2/Mod a lot as well.
#7266
Yeah, it looks like a blast and it looks like a driver's class. Not just bolt in a monster motor and pull the trigger 
It's by far the biggest class in both local clubs as well, and they run in a gym all winter so thats cool too

It's by far the biggest class in both local clubs as well, and they run in a gym all winter so thats cool too
#7267
Unfortunately you will find more hackers in the class as well, but that usually occurs in the lower mains. For the most part the fast guys are quite courteous and it makes for some good clean racing.
#7268
Hi,
I just brought the gear diff rebuild kit #9829. But I found the gears are different to the ones I had installed and different to the picture found on AE's website!??
Here's a pix, will they still work?
Attachment 811456
Attachment 811457
I just brought the gear diff rebuild kit #9829. But I found the gears are different to the ones I had installed and different to the picture found on AE's website!??
Here's a pix, will they still work?
Attachment 811456
Attachment 811457
#7269
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 48
From: altamonte springs
Just purchased all components and double checked part numbers to convert sc10 front hubs to the sc10RS hex hubs. When installing wheel not enough threads to allow lock nut to work. Check RS owners manual online and there is a different front locknut part number listed then the rear. The front locknut is not listed however under parts list! Anyone fighting this issue or am I the first? All items assembled per instruction and triple checked! Still to short! May be able to use another nut but hate to half assed it together! Prefer to assemble as it was designed.
#7270
Oh no. Just got the RS a few days ago and ordered some pre-mounted tyres at Jconcepts to the SC10 but did not se that the RS got the 12mm hex as standard...
Stupid me 
But nice i can use the wheels from my SCTE
Stupid me 
But nice i can use the wheels from my SCTE
#7271
Just purchased all components and double checked part numbers to convert sc10 front hubs to the sc10RS hex hubs. When installing wheel not enough threads to allow lock nut to work. Check RS owners manual online and there is a different front locknut part number listed then the rear. The front locknut is not listed however under parts list! Anyone fighting this issue or am I the first? All items assembled per instruction and triple checked! Still to short! May be able to use another nut but hate to half assed it together! Prefer to assemble as it was designed.
#7272
I bet I see 7-10 SC10's or more at the track this weekend,
as soon as they found out I got the SC10 they ended up running the truck
as well.






