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Old 03-24-2011 | 02:24 AM
  #5746  
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Originally Posted by wcrase101
we have to run any stock tire from any 2wd SC kit. We can and do sauce the tires. thats why the track changes so drastically.
I've tried to run without it but my lap times fall off there too. we change the track everytwo weeks some tracks are worse than others as far as traction roll. thanks for the help.
Use Subcultures.... The Kyosho tire is probably the next best
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Old 03-24-2011 | 10:25 AM
  #5747  
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Originally Posted by primo86gt
Use Subcultures.... The Kyosho tire is probably the next best
Most tracks don't consider this to be a "stock" or RTR tire even thought it comes in the FT kit...
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Old 03-25-2011 | 12:31 PM
  #5748  
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Questions?? opinions...

I have a SC10 Brushless RTR 2.4 radio model. I already added the RPM arms all around, added the RPM bumper and brace, have MIP CVD in the rear. Also have the AKA 17mm adapters running on SC8 wheels and tires. I am using a 2c Lipo 5000mah. So I went out with my buddies for some bashing in a open dirt field, when I accelerated the SC10 would do donuts?!? My buddies ran with Traxxas Slash's and they had no problem getting around. They too also had Brushless and Lipo batteries. Any suggestions on what I can do? I never had this problem with my HPI Blitz which I thought had the same chassis design.
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Old 03-26-2011 | 12:59 PM
  #5749  
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Originally Posted by nozauta619
I have a SC10 Brushless RTR 2.4 radio model. I already added the RPM arms all around, added the RPM bumper and brace, have MIP CVD in the rear. Also have the AKA 17mm adapters running on SC8 wheels and tires. I am using a 2c Lipo 5000mah. So I went out with my buddies for some bashing in a open dirt field, when I accelerated the SC10 would do donuts?!? My buddies ran with Traxxas Slash's and they had no problem getting around. They too also had Brushless and Lipo batteries. Any suggestions on what I can do? I never had this problem with my HPI Blitz which I thought had the same chassis design.

Loosen the slipper and make sure the wheelbase is "square". The same on each side. I bought a T4 used last summer and it did the same thing. It was missing the small spacer between the a arm and the rear hub. The SC10 is konw for its lack of rear traction. I have used the FT SC10 (2.5* or 3* block depends on track conditions) suspension mount and 1* degree rear hubs.
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Old 03-26-2011 | 01:24 PM
  #5750  
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sounds like a dogbone is out.
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Old 03-26-2011 | 01:45 PM
  #5751  
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gonna be getting a rtr brushless sc10 soon went this route to use the electronics from this for the wifes SC later and il be upgrading my sc10 slowly with servos shocks tires ect
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Old 03-26-2011 | 03:42 PM
  #5752  
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How much weight are most people adding to the the rear of their SC10? I see Ryan Maifield and Jason Ruono are both adding about 3 ounces in the rear of the battery tray and moving the battery all the way forward. That seems like a ton of weight in the rear. I would expect to see some added to the front as well but it doesn't look klike they are adding any more weight than just moving the battery all the way forward. Is anybody else doing this?
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Old 03-26-2011 | 04:09 PM
  #5753  
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so you're questioning what the pro drivers are doing?
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Old 03-26-2011 | 04:36 PM
  #5754  
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thanks lots to all the guys that helped me out, the ideals given to me gave me a truck that really drove alot better, thank you all, I did have a bad a-main but It was all on me, I got into early first lap crash, I accidently ran somebody over so I waited up till the marshell got the guy I ran over. but, the only time I traction rolled was in the second round, easy fix with stronger spring.
just wanted to let yall know how the help worked out.

thanks.
will
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Old 03-26-2011 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
so you're questioning what the pro drivers are doing?
Not usually, just seems like a TON of weight. The first setup sheet I saw I thought it was a typo. Then I saw it again on another setup sheet. Just wondering if thats really what I need.
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Old 03-26-2011 | 07:02 PM
  #5756  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Not usually, just seems like a TON of weight. The first setup sheet I saw I thought it was a typo. Then I saw it again on another setup sheet. Just wondering if thats really what I need.
Not sure if it's what you need but it's normal..
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Old 03-27-2011 | 07:18 AM
  #5757  
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I've read on here about using .5 degree and 1 degree rear hub carriers over the stock 0degree carriers. What exactly does running those over stock do for the trucks performance?

Also, I've searched AE's site for these parts and am having trouble finding them(part #). Do you have to get the blue aluminum carriers made for the buggy?
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Old 03-27-2011 | 10:36 AM
  #5758  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Not usually, just seems like a TON of weight. The first setup sheet I saw I thought it was a typo. Then I saw it again on another setup sheet. Just wondering if thats really what I need.
Its normal. I run 3 oz in the rear and a 1.5oz in the front.
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Old 03-27-2011 | 10:43 AM
  #5759  
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Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
Its normal. I run 3 oz in the rear and a 1.5oz in the front.
Do you run the battery all the way forward as well? Where do you put all that weight up front?
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Old 03-27-2011 | 11:01 AM
  #5760  
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse
Do you run the battery all the way forward as well? Where do you put all that weight up front?

It depends on what track Im at. For a low traction track I run the battery as far back as I can. Most of the time I run the battery in the middle. I rarely run it all the way forward. I have a fast high torque servo. I have more than enough steering. I have two strips of 1.5oz each that are touching the suspension mount. then I run the battery in the middle is the space left. The weight works good as a battery stop. The weigh on the front I have it on the front bulkhead. I have a thin ziptie around it all as insurance.
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