Then I'm even more confused why they turned. But I thank you for answering the question.

Nice, I think those will work and they look good. Just ordered 2 packs from A Main

you now they are clamp style the only thing is i think the gap where it clamps was to much so when it closes the 12mm is more in the 11.xx mm and it spun while tightening down

Ouch! Serrations on your nuts hurts!

Im thinking about getting an sc10 and i was directed to this forum and 400 pages is way to much to read so im just gonna start following along now

ok guys quick question,sat was my 2nd time out with the truck,im coming from stadium truck,where you run it alittle on the stiffer side,where on the sc10 when i run it on the stiffer side it seems to handle the jumps nice but i loose the tight steering it has,do these trucks like to be run alittle on the softer side?i was running blue/sliver springs its on rails but when i got back to grey/red seems like i really have to check up on the throttle and be easy going into some tight corners,the track has some good size cross overs.just curious for some imput

did you try moving shock location

ya i actually have the 4th hole drilled on the shock tower,i was running inside of arm and 4th hole on tower,might move it to 3rd hole on tower and outside hole on arm since that was my t4 set up and it was good,most of the fast guys are running blue/silver with #2 pistons all around,i think im going to go back to that and maybe add a few more limiters in the shocks as well. i believe im 3 in front and 2 in rear,maybe go 4/5 on limiters to limit the rear down travel.I think its me just not being used to how these drive to how you set them up!

running on carpet whats tire set up should i use i have
barcodes
double dees
subcultures

where should i put them front or rear thanks in advance

Warning - slight brag. I picked up a SC10 roller with a bunch of factory upgrades for a smokin deal about a week ago so I could run a second class. Used my four year old 4 cell GTB with a heatsink installed, and an four year old velocitiy 17.5. Added a factory team battery hold down, changed the orings and the bleeder caps, copied some setup off of the AE site where they were using tires like I think work at my local track (Maifields nats setup from last year I think), and followed it exactly.

Won both qualifiers by a lap each over the second place guy.

Won the main by about a lap.

I had to adjust the slipper and diff at the track, and check ride height and cross weight, clean tires, and that was about it. My 4w is like 2 seconds a lap faster but itsn't as easy to drive. But fun to drive when your ish works like that.

Before:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...-20-54_120.jpg

After:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...2-45_900-1.jpg

It's not perfect but it's racy. And it doesn't require me beating myself to death to run two classes. I get to run two ten minute mains and four seven mute qualifiers. Winning!

Grats dude. Now try running 3 cars on a race day. You barely have enough time to take a bathroom break.

I just started building my sc10ft & noticed my front a-arms are a little tight on the hinge pin. Should I use a drill to ream it a bit? Any suggestions? Thank you!

yes you should, you want them to be free moving but with no slop. here is a vid to help.

+ YouTube Video

Thanks for the vid! The bummer part is I'm on an ipad2, the YouTube vid won't work :(. I will wait to see it when I hop on my pc, thanks!

I have run carpet for a few winters and none of them would be my first choice. try what u have tho.

hpi blitze D compound rear
stock ae or kyosho front

the small pins u have will fill up with carpet fuzz and be like running on glass.