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Originally Posted by HB Willy
(Post 7756018)
So are you saying they still leak like a siv??
I thought with the V2's the leaking problem was mostly solved......not sure if it's to do with different o-rings or what the deal is. Has anyone with the FT SC10 experienced any leaking with the V2 shocks? |
I sold the set of v2's from my ftsc10 but I just got the b4.1 Ft and have 4 five minute sessions at WCRC with no problems yet.
I actually run losi shocks on all my cars except for the buggy so I don't have to worry about leaking shocks. From what i have heard everywhere and from everyone...I'm glad I run losi shocks. |
Everyone with the V2 shocks says they R so dailed ...
I concur .....:nod: |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 7936615)
Everyone with the V2 shocks says they R so dailed ...
I concur .....:nod: the o-rings swell and bind the shaft way before the shock starts to leak. |
Another stupid question.
I took my rtr sc10 out for a bash on the weekend and found it was getting quite hot and cut out a couple of times im assuming it got too hot. i put a 4900kv reedy bl motor in it and its running the 18/87 gearing. SO basically smaller the pinion gear the lower the temperature right?( i dont really want to gear lower i like the top end). I also have a milled motor plate which should reduce the temp a bit but being completely surrounded by the gear cover i don't see how it actually gets enough ventilation. Does anyone run without the gear cover to help cooling? Id rather risk a 3 dollar spur gear then risk an $80 dollar motor. Or would going down one setting on the throttle curve keep it cooler longer? Any suggestions. Thanks |
Originally Posted by offtraxx
(Post 7553311)
some guys I race with were using tc3 rear hexes. perfect fit for the ae axles.
wish I would have done it. brand new j-concepts wheel lasted 5 battery packs before I stripped 1 http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...g-Hex-Drives-4 |
so what other parts are ever one runing on there sc10
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Originally Posted by grundor
(Post 7937643)
Another stupid question.
I took my rtr sc10 out for a bash on the weekend and found it was getting quite hot and cut out a couple of times im assuming it got too hot. i put a 4900kv reedy bl motor in it and its running the 18/87 gearing. SO basically smaller the pinion gear the lower the temperature right?( i dont really want to gear lower i like the top end). I also have a milled motor plate which should reduce the temp a bit but being completely surrounded by the gear cover i don't see how it actually gets enough ventilation. Does anyone run without the gear cover to help cooling? Id rather risk a 3 dollar spur gear then risk an $80 dollar motor. Or would going down one setting on the throttle curve keep it cooler longer? Any suggestions. Thanks I can't say enough to people, pay not attention to the gear chart in the back of the manual. |
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Originally Posted by bigmike22
(Post 7940530)
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Originally Posted by Pimpin
(Post 7936407)
I sold the set of v2's from my ftsc10 but I just got the b4.1 Ft and have 4 five minute sessions at WCRC with no problems yet.
I actually run losi shocks on all my cars except for the buggy so I don't have to worry about leaking shocks. From what i have heard everywhere and from everyone...I'm glad I run losi shocks. |
Originally Posted by z50king
(Post 7714828)
tbj you should have said you got the 4 wheel steering all dialed in
what are best sc tires for dry, dusty surfaces? calibers? |
Originally Posted by Glowster21
(Post 7941420)
You guys should try the AKA Enduro tires. I'm running soft up front and super soft in the rear. They are absolutely outstanding on dry/dusty tracks. Even work damn good on hard packed. Last forever, I actually felt more glued all around than with the m3 calibers. Calibers are great, the Enduro's blew me away though.
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Originally Posted by ImGoinRCn
(Post 7941445)
+1! Liked Calibers but LOVE AKA Enduros! The hook up best for me when the track is just a bit tacky.
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Originally Posted by bigmike22
(Post 7941458)
Wait till you get to run the new gridirons!
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