platgof

iTrader: (4)

I like Avid for the buy what you need system, and super fast shipping. If you need one size, you can buy just one. I use the one with one seal for the outside and none for the inside, reduces friction.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thanks for the info brudda. Much appreciated

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

I ran the basic Avid set for about 14 months and when I felt the car needed new bearings I bout the same set which left it good as new. DIRT CHEAP and excellent quality. Ceramics are better but GD people think they are selling you diamonds. $64 isn't the most expensive price for ceramic bearings but it surely isn't cheap.

Boca Bearings is local to me and I've bought bearings from them for years because they had the correct size fort my paintball triggers, but as small as they are, Boca way overcharges. Luckily I make it up on the overall sale of my triggers, but still, I know how much it costs them to manufacture them and production costs so it bugs me that they mark them up a few hundred % on me.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thanks for the info Incubus, much appreciated Brudda. I am going to give Acers a go.
Do you know where I can pic up a chassis skin for the V4?

Thank you again my friend

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Hey Incubus,

When buying bearings do I want both sides of the bearings to have rubber seals or only I side of the beAring with a rubber shield being the more exposed to debri side.

Thanks Brudda

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

realistically speaking all you need rubber seals on are the wheel hubs front and rear. Everything else can be open because it sits pretty much sealed and allows oils and greases to pass through and penetrate, thus keeping them well lubricated.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Thanks Incubus much appreciated. I assume bearings without rubber seals are more free rolling do to less friction.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Not particularly. The rubber seals reside over the standard shields which are hardened SS so as long as they are properly lubed they will function just the same.

I've never seen any dirt inside my diffs but it's not a bad idea to get the same rubber sealed type for the outdrives not he transmissions, just in case. That's how I ordered my Avid bearing kit.

darrin011

Anyone running a motor fan or heat sink on the motor? Or know of one that will fit with little or no modification?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

A low-profile 30mm fan fits perfectly under the front driveshaft. Just use a strip of STRONG servo tape and you're good to go. Mine is a MuchMore fan and has never quit working but there are better, more powerful fans out now.






The one mistake I see made is that many people drill holes in their lids up front but they don't drill hols in the rear so some of the heat remains trapped. I drill 3 holes in front on either side and 3 hole at the rear of the sidepods so as to allow the fresh air coming in flow right on through pulling most of the heat with it.

darrin011

I run a jconcepts body, have holes in the front, and a wide set pattern in the front window, what location in the sides or rear of the body are you talking about just to be sure. I just use the car for our personal dirt track, which is nice and on occasion, light club use. Haven't temped the motor yet but it feels warm. I'm actually running a trackstar 80a esc with a fan, and a 10.5t 4 pole motor, everyone said the motor was going to tear the car or driveline apart, but it's proven to be awesome with some tuning on the program card. I have it geared 23/87, maybe too much gear? I've read people going higher with no issues on lower turn 2 pole motors? I'd like NOT to wedge a fan into the car, but if needed, I'll make it work. As to the 4 pole setup, my car is built right, diffs are right, just took a tad of timing out of the motor, and I can honestly say, running a 4 pole in a 4wd makes all the sense in the world to me if done right, I get much better run time on a 5000mah saddle lipo, can run a higher turn motor, less stressful on the electronics, and I have guys come out every weekend and bring anything from 5.5 turn on up, and even some castle powered 1/8 stuff, and I know it's my track, but this car has held, spur, pads, diffs, you name it has held up just fine. I actually have the motor timing set low, and it holds it's own without issue with anything anybody brings. But like I said, I've been doing this on and off for 30 years, so my chassis, and shock setup are my deal, and my track, but still I'm pleased so far with 15 plus packs through it.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

darrin011

Thanks, I'll try some minor drilling in those locations, thanks a lot for the time and help

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Good but still… INSTALL A FAN!

I've had one in every wheeler I'ver run and I have never suffered equipment failure. On the contrary I have seen others suffer failures due to extreme temperatures that cause a multitude of issues ranging from motor death to ESC meltdown.

Better safe than sorry.

darrin011

What about my gearing? I've read a ton of opinions all over the place, being the 10.5t 4 pole is working fine, is 23/87 overkill? It's fast with the motor timing set low, haven't checked the temps on that setting, runs obviously faster on normal setting, but gets warm, but again I don't have accurate numbers on temps yet, and ridiculous with the motor timing on high setting, which I don't plan using, there's a point where too fast is slow. I've raced 2wd buggy for years, everything 1/8 scale nitro and electric, and both 2 and 4wd short course trucks, but this is my first attempt into 1/10 4wd, and the guy who had the car was frustrated, so I got the car, controller, savox servo, and the trackstar electronics for $50, just needed to finish the kit, and install the stuff, so really not out anything, just want some honest opinions on heat, timing and gearing choices. Any input is super helpful so thanks to everybody for sure.