adamge

iTrader: (1)

A local driver was using a MM 7700 this weekend in his touring car (carpet foam electric 1/10). He was having issues during the race with it acting funny (I wasn't watching the car very much and didn't really notice what it was doing). I temp'd it right after he finished (it kept running - I think he pulled over once and had a marshall turn the power off and on). Motor was 140-150's (same as I always see with my MM 4600 and 5700 setups), ESC was 175 on the heatsink (IR temp gun). Does the ESC start thermalling at 175 on the heatsink?

One other cause I was thinking is the Spektrum receiver he's using. I tried one with my MM setup, and while trying to enter programming mode it suddenly armed. Ever since then I've not trusted Spektrum receivers to put out a clean signal. Castle is primarily into plane ESCs, and in those you want the ESC to power down when it sees a strange signal from the receiver, so perhaps you guys have built a ESC that is sensitive to a bad receiver.


Where's that announcement???

JSJ Racing

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Crash!

addicted

iTrader: (76)

Hi All

Today i decided to run the 5700 in my touring car,prior to this it was run in the Losi MF2, I used the same gearing as per the 7x1 which had been installed in a yokomo ssg shaft.(I had also ran a 7700 in this car prior )The Esc settings were as per factory set. I decided to run in with the big boys in nitro class.I coupled the 5700 to a 3200 Li-po 3s 11.1 volt

First run a slight problem stripping the spur gear after 3/4 lap
Second run the same problem.
Third run i decided to coast a little before mashing the throttle.First impression were this thing isnt going to be for faint hearted. I had to change my driving style a little as all it wanted to do was to kiss it's tail with corner exits. Well finally getting the hang of the power that was on tap this thing would of been the INSANELY SICKEST unit i have even had a chance to run. Mid way down the straights all it wanted to do was to lose traction and preceed sideways . It had so much speed over shooting corners were unavoidable.. From a standing start at the begining of the strait not only would it run down the fastest Gas tourer( these things were coming onto the straight at about 3/4 throttle ) but pass it like it was a 540 power tourer.

The fun ended with again another stripped spur gear..

I just honestly cant describe the power and speed this unit was developing and it still was honestly under geared by three or four pinions..

Unless you have a huge track or are just after undriveable SICK power this is by far the set up to use.. I would of like to of compared the difference with Nimh but unfortunately my supply of spurs gear run out.

WELL DONE CC and Yes IT DOES "MAKE EM CRY" the gas tourer owners were

-tony

Speed Demon

iTrader: (3)

any words of programming the Mamba Max with PDA?

JDish

Any updates on the software for the Novak motors?

I tried a Novak 4300 in my pan car on 4 cells and it kind of worked. After first turning on the speedo, it would cog a bit right at the start and then run as it should for as long as I wanted it to, but as soon as I came to a stop, it would not start again, just sat there and made weird noises when I hit the throttle and the car would shake back and forth. Even tried to give it a rolling start but still would not take off. If I shut off the speedo and turned it back on, it would start back up.

In the interim time between now and the software update, are there any settings I can try on the speedo to at least make it start back up after stopping? I can deal with the cog on start, I run oval so I'm pretty much full throttle the whole race anyway, but it would be nice if it would go again after coming to a stop (in case of a crash) without having to cycle the speedo.

Thanks
Jay

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

That is awesome! Can't wait to see what happens when we release the 6900!

Later,

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

At this point the engineers do not have any intetion of it.

Later,

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Software update is coming very soon. The software update is in process. So just stay tuned.

Later,

JDish

AWESOME!!!

Thanks CRASH!!!

tyreguy

iTrader: (148)

Crash, how does a second shift machine operator at CC know so much?

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

First of all I am not a second shift machine operator, I am the main SMT programmer and operator. How do I know so much, because I talk with the engineers almost everyday and the tech guys and learn as much as I can about all of this new technology.

Thanks to Pat, Rich, Jonathan and Joe for all their help. By the way if I don't know the answer I won't answer, but I will go ask and get the answer.

So just who are you?

Later,

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

I think those who want a competatively raceable and proper balence of speed / driveability (in that nice green of course) will be happy.

Aaron P

iTrader: (3)

Wouldn't this be a p.i.t.a for racers who hardwire?

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

I run on a large outdoor asphalt track. Its open and flowing, and minimal braking is needed on maybe 2 sections. The straight is about 150FT. I run an HB Cyclone, with FDR of 8.77(108/30 X 2.4375). I worked very nicely temp wise, but was still not faster than Novak 3.5R system I was racing at the track. About 3/4 of the track straight it feels as if its reacing its peak, and it just stays there. Maybe I can add a tooth or two for the pinion? Or maybe its something on the ESC settings I can tweak for more top speed or power? Here are my settings:

Brake:50%
Reverse:20%
Punch/Traction: Lowest
Drag: 20%
Start power: medium
Cutoff: Auto-lipo
motor timing: lowest
Throttle curve: set to curve setting, and dragged curve line at 50 mark downwards a bit.

Any help or advise would defenitely help fellas....thanks

Aaron P

iTrader: (3)

Is this anytime you use the switch, or mainly in instances as described in the tuning guide, where say...you've adjusted the drag brake with the radio, and if you used the switch, it wouldn't see the throttle as being in a neutral position and so you have to set the trim back to zero before you turn it off? Or is it something that you would have to potentially completely re-calibrate each time?