Tamiya TRF417
#782
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Morning from thailand all...
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
#783
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Morning from thailand all...
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
#784
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Morning from thailand all...
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
So quick observations from meeting up with Jilles, Marc and co yesterday, and as I'm late for breakfast, quick summary..
No front gear diff - back to the spool, just seems to work better at the moment
Straight front arms - 1C/1C, more into, less out of the corners
Long links - full length
Shocks - pretty standard it seems, even going to lower oil to combat traction roll (yes, traction roll on asphalt, with 36 rated tyres... wtf !)
Will try post some more laters.. although also running a blog style thing here http://www.thard.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=64
Ed
hears that the MM tires aren't lasting. Are we allowed to purchase additional sets for the qualifying runs?
Thanks.
#785
Has anyone used the center one way? Is it worth getting?
#786
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
It's not that they are not lasting (12 runs + seems to be easily achievable), just they change so much during a run. Super edgey to start with, then lapse into understeer after a few mins. Not much that can be done but try and get the car as well set for the end of the run, then hold on tight at the start!
#788
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
It's not that they are not lasting (12 runs + seems to be easily achievable), just they change so much during a run. Super edgey to start with, then lapse into understeer after a few mins. Not much that can be done but try and get the car as well set for the end of the run, then hold on tight at the start!
#789
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Unfortunately, Tamiya USA along with US and HK based online stores are all out of stock. You can also use the Evo IV suspension shafts (TAM54093), same dimensions minus the Ti coating.
Last edited by John.C; 02-23-2011 at 07:47 AM.
#790
, thanks, i just got those from rc market without the titanium coating, but does the Ti coating makes a noticeable difference, it's not as if the whole shaft was made of titanium O.O, otherwise it wouldnt bend lol ...
Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
#791
, thanks, i just got those from rc market without the titanium coating, but does the Ti coating makes a noticeable difference, it's not as if the whole shaft was made of titanium O.O, otherwise it wouldnt bend lol ...
Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
Also, I was playing with my car on my setup board, and when i accelerate and then steer, i get a " chatering " noise, where does that come from ? I heard it's also on other chassis, but whats the problem ?
Thanks
#792
Tech Addict
ECS-driveshafts (double-jointed) are pretty comon on the Xray, but that is mainly because Xray normal driveshafts are "bad" / give alot of wheel-chatter, and because Xray made some very good ECS-driveshafts, that are durable.
Unfortunately they are too long for the Tamiya, as Xray only makes 50mm and 52mm driveshafts.
Unfortunately they are too long for the Tamiya, as Xray only makes 50mm and 52mm driveshafts.
#793
Tech Addict
I have some questions.
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
#794
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I have some questions.
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
#795
I have some questions.
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?
I race an Xray at the moment, so I am used to driving an immortal tank. I am thinking about switching to Tamiya, but I know that it isn't as durable as the Xray.
So my question is: Is there any way to make it more durable, without losing performance? I've heard about the split-blocks. Do they help? Are they worth the money?