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Tamiya TRF417

Old 02-17-2011, 09:55 AM
  #751  
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Originally Posted by M3dreamin2008
Geppetto,
Are you going to run the 417 this Sat?
No. My 417 hasn't been delivered yet. Since I'm preparing my Mini for TCS, I won't race Stock Spec until after TCS. I can't concentrate on more than one class at a time. Probably old age.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:55 AM
  #752  
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Hey, just a quick question, after a day of racing ( when my car is kinda dirty, greasy and stuffs... ) can I spray some WD-40 all over the chassis ( except on the electronics ) to move the dirt and other bits on the chassis ?
And also, can I apply WD-40 on the types after each race to remove and fresher them for the next race

Thanks guys
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Pretty sure you can't use the old type thrust with the new diff screw, as the screw is larger in diameter.
I've done what an number of other people have mentioned here, just used some ceramic imperial balls I had lyaing around... nice and smooth. Almost a shame that I've pretty much gone gear diff exclusive!

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:58 AM
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So in the preperations for the TITC next week, and rebuilding my 417, I've been going over it quite thoroughly... and learned the following points

The middle holes on the bulkheads for the camber links actually results in camber links 0.5mm shorter (further from the car centreline) than the inner most holes on the 416... and the inner holes result in 1mm longer links, so I can see why Jilles has gone with the inner hole now

Next up, some more hints for the steering... when having a little look, I noticed that on the cross brace, the mounting for the ackerman ball joints is shaped to provide a lock stop on the bell cranks. Now, with 3mm of shims, using 8mm long ball studs, the studs protrude out just enough to touch the bell cranks on full lock. Using 5mm ball joints (especially with less shims) means that the cross brace acts as the stop.
Next up, same thing goes for the ball joint for the drag link. Kit instructions have the shim to use as 1mm, but with the 5mm ball joint, the bottom of the joint protrudes through the brace, meaning that the screw hits the bell cranks, again limiting the amount of lock. So a 2mm shim means it clears, and can get full lock to the (cross brace) stops
Only little things, but they all help, IMO
Doing those two things means full lock is possible, with the steering hub able to touch the C-hub.. first time I've ever had that with a Tamiya!

I'll try and get some pictures, but got a lot to do before I fly out on sunday! Work, shocks to build, shells to trim, packing to do, oh and possibly sleep as well...

Ed
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:14 AM
  #755  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
So in the preperations for the TITC next week, and rebuilding my 417, I've been going over it quite thoroughly... and learned the following points

The middle holes on the bulkheads for the camber links actually results in camber links 0.5mm shorter (further from the car centreline) than the inner most holes on the 416... and the inner holes result in 1mm longer links, so I can see why Jilles has gone with the inner hole now

Next up, some more hints for the steering... when having a little look, I noticed that on the cross brace, the mounting for the ackerman ball joints is shaped to provide a lock stop on the bell cranks. Now, with 3mm of shims, using 8mm long ball studs, the studs protrude out just enough to touch the bell cranks on full lock. Using 5mm ball joints (especially with less shims) means that the cross brace acts as the stop.
Next up, same thing goes for the ball joint for the drag link. Kit instructions have the shim to use as 1mm, but with the 5mm ball joint, the bottom of the joint protrudes through the brace, meaning that the screw hits the bell cranks, again limiting the amount of lock. So a 2mm shim means it clears, and can get full lock to the (cross brace) stops
Only little things, but they all help, IMO
Doing those two things means full lock is possible, with the steering hub able to touch the C-hub.. first time I've ever had that with a Tamiya!

I'll try and get some pictures, but got a lot to do before I fly out on sunday! Work, shocks to build, shells to trim, packing to do, oh and possibly sleep as well...

Ed
Lol will defenetly try those tips when I get home
But another thing .. xD, what is the difference between longer vs shorter camper links ?
Sorry but I'm just trying to understand abit more the effects, and when would longer links are an advantage against shorter links ?
Cheers
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hey, just a quick question, after a day of racing ( when my car is kinda dirty, greasy and stuffs... ) can I spray some WD-40 all over the chassis ( except on the electronics ) to move the dirt and other bits on the chassis ?
And also, can I apply WD-40 on the types after each race to remove and fresher them for the next race

Thanks guys
wd-40 will leave ur stuff all greasy and lubed. you'll want to blow stuff off with compressed air and maybe use motor spray like

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TAE4000
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hey, just a quick question, after a day of racing ( when my car is kinda dirty, greasy and stuffs... ) can I spray some WD-40 all over the chassis ( except on the electronics ) to move the dirt and other bits on the chassis ?
And also, can I apply WD-40 on the types after each race to remove and fresher them for the next race

Thanks guys
I wouldnt recomend wd40 mate. it will leave a oily residue on the areas you can't get to/wipe out and will just collect more crap.

with light dust and rubber, try to just use a paint brush and brush the dirt and grime off, same with the bodyshell. If it's really filthy, bit of compressed air, but not too much preasure that it will force grit into bearings etc. and for cleaning shocks etc, after bleeding and after races when they collect filth, metho (methalated spirits) in a spray bottle works an absolute treat, and wont harm electronics and drys quickly, no residue, wont harm plastics and is quite cheap. perfect for cleaning rc cars.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Hey, just a quick question, after a day of racing ( when my car is kinda dirty, greasy and stuffs... ) can I spray some WD-40 all over the chassis ( except on the electronics ) to move the dirt and other bits on the chassis ?
And also, can I apply WD-40 on the types after each race to remove and fresher them for the next race

Thanks guys
Wd-40 will just make the car shiny and smell funny. As for your tires you can try simple green to clean them. WD-40 on your tires will make a great drift car!
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:00 PM
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[QUOTE=Geppetto;8667893]No. My 417 hasn't been delivered yet. Since I'm preparing my Mini for TCS, I won't race Stock Spec until after TCS. I can't concentrate on more than one class at a time. Probably old age. [/QUOTE

I'm sure you will love the car. You should bring it for mod this summer in manassas.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed
Lol will defenetly try those tips when I get home
But another thing .. xD, what is the difference between longer vs shorter camper links ?
Sorry but I'm just trying to understand abit more the effects, and when would longer links are an advantage against shorter links ?
Cheers
Best thing I can suggest for the steering is take the unit out of the car (not too difficult to do), and have a play, looking at the screws from underneath the brace... probably didn't write it very well, but should be pretty easy to see what I mean when you have it in your hands

As for the longer links, it should make the car less reactive and roll more, and gives less camber change... I need to check up on that (damm the 416 and the camber link positions that never changed... )

Ed
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by M3dreamin2008
Wd-40 will just make the car shiny and smell funny. As for your tires you can try simple green to clean them. WD-40 on your tires will make a great drift car!
No they won't, I ve been using WD40 to clean my tyres after every run. They work great, spray it on a soft tissue paper and wipe the tyres, you can see all the dirts got off the tyres. After like 5-7 mins the oily stuff will dry out, and by this time you can feel the tyre surface got really soft and sticky.
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dameetz
No they won't, I ve been using WD40 to clean my tyres after every run. They work great, spray it on a soft tissue paper and wipe the tyres, you can see all the dirts got off the tyres. After like 5-7 mins the oily stuff will dry out, and by this time you can feel the tyre surface got really soft and sticky.
+1. I used to use it as well on the tyres, actually does a very good job, and as it's an oil based (rather than solvent) solution, in theory shouldn't take damage the chemicals in the tyres as much... well thats the theory. I've been meaning to try it with a back to back with brake cleaner I currently use (more to see if I can actually tell any difference!), but there's always something more pressing to test..
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Old 02-18-2011, 05:45 AM
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I found brake cleaner was not nice at all..chemical too aggressive..until I tried the product by Würth

Cleans totally, dries in seconds, leaves tyre sticky

And best of all its non toxic, I got a lot accidentally in my eye, and no problems. With traditional brake cleaner it would have probably meant a visit to hospital

Thumbs up for a great product
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dameetz
No they won't, I ve been using WD40 to clean my tyres after every run. They work great, spray it on a soft tissue paper and wipe the tyres, you can see all the dirts got off the tyres. After like 5-7 mins the oily stuff will dry out, and by this time you can feel the tyre surface got really soft and sticky.
Wow didn't know that
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:49 AM
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+1 for wd40 on tires. cleans well, works great. only down side is you have to wait for them to dry, and they do make your car smell funny, but then again... just about everything in the pit smells funny... burnt electronics, soldering irons...
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