68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
06-06-2007, 06:59 PM
#7786
Hey thanks a ton! What bodies are you testing? I will be there with my new Pennzoil Skyline to try out. Someone let me try their Skyline and Carrera GT to compare to the 350z I had been driving, and I liked the Skyline a lot better than either one. The only body I didn't get to try was the Lexus which i heard was pretty good last year.
You're also running GT2 right? Me and another guy were the only 2 running GT2 cars last Sat and need more people to compare with!
You're also running GT2 right? Me and another guy were the only 2 running GT2 cars last Sat and need more people to compare with!
06-06-2007, 07:05 PM
#7787
Spool and Battery
1. I have to ask this question what is a spool? I know from when I ran onroad 4 years ago what a one-way is but not a spool.
2. What Lipo packs fit this car? Or do all or any fit.
2. What Lipo packs fit this car? Or do all or any fit.
06-06-2007, 07:37 PM
#7788
almost all packs fit the car, both orion packs, many of the uncased cells like Max amps.
06-06-2007, 08:22 PM
#7789
By "locked unit" he means a completely locked front unit in place of the front diff. Meaning that with no diff action at all, the two front wheels always turn at the same speed.
This can be very effective in the right conditions, but it is very brutal on the front drive components.
This can be very effective in the right conditions, but it is very brutal on the front drive components.
06-06-2007, 10:25 PM
#7790
By "locked unit" he means a completely locked front unit in place of the front diff. Meaning that with no diff action at all, the two front wheels always turn at the same speed.
This can be very effective in the right conditions, but it is very brutal on the front drive components.
This can be very effective in the right conditions, but it is very brutal on the front drive components.
Just make a spool from your diff. Take the balls out and put cardboard in there. Then lock it down....spool like drive without the destruction in a crash
Ran my TA05R w/ a 13.5R on carpet...first time racing in 7 months. The car is really good for a tub and mid-level car. It ran well and I was impressed but could see the difference with the weight. For the money it's probably the best new car in that $200 price range.
Anyone want to buy a 1 raceday old 05R?? :P
06-07-2007, 02:21 AM
#7791
06-07-2007, 02:33 AM
#7792
Forgive me if this has been brought up in this thread before, but you can't search threads anymore since the "upgrade". 
Has anyone notice a binding problem with the center shaft on the "R" with the blue aluminum upper plate?
I put it together all stock...then started picking up a few little options here and there...still haven't gotten it running, I just like looking at it.
Anyways, it never seemed really free, but tonight I decided to test out my buddy's RPM "bearing blaster" thingie and clean the grease out of the bearings. When I did the bearings for the center shaft, they were really free...they just spun and spun. As soon as either side of the blue plate was snugged at all, the shaft would bind up pretty badly. It would almost "clunk".
I tried the plastic one out and it was better, but still bound up some. It seems like the center mount saddles for the bearings are a tiny bit shallow. I used a utility knife to shave a few thousandths off the underside of the blue plate between the screws to keep it from crushing down on the bearings.
It's really free now, but I was kinda surprised how much I had to shave off to get there.
Has anyone notice a binding problem with the center shaft on the "R" with the blue aluminum upper plate?
I put it together all stock...then started picking up a few little options here and there...still haven't gotten it running, I just like looking at it.
Anyways, it never seemed really free, but tonight I decided to test out my buddy's RPM "bearing blaster" thingie and clean the grease out of the bearings. When I did the bearings for the center shaft, they were really free...they just spun and spun. As soon as either side of the blue plate was snugged at all, the shaft would bind up pretty badly. It would almost "clunk".
I tried the plastic one out and it was better, but still bound up some. It seems like the center mount saddles for the bearings are a tiny bit shallow. I used a utility knife to shave a few thousandths off the underside of the blue plate between the screws to keep it from crushing down on the bearings.
It's really free now, but I was kinda surprised how much I had to shave off to get there.
06-07-2007, 02:36 AM
#7793
06-07-2007, 07:03 AM
#7795
I have a ? ,
Can you balance a TA-05R between left and right side with weights and still keep it at 1525 grams (with standard body, rubber tyres,mtr esc etc.. )
even with ib4200 6 cell pack which weigh in at 440grams.
as looking at the chassis design the batt sits out from centre of chassis alot compared to alot of the new cars.
like is it a light car to start with, so as can put weights on mtr side to balance weight of car?
Can you balance a TA-05R between left and right side with weights and still keep it at 1525 grams (with standard body, rubber tyres,mtr esc etc.. )
even with ib4200 6 cell pack which weigh in at 440grams.
as looking at the chassis design the batt sits out from centre of chassis alot compared to alot of the new cars.
like is it a light car to start with, so as can put weights on mtr side to balance weight of car?
06-07-2007, 07:07 AM
#7796
No, it is overweight to start with, no point adding weight to balance, you would need a hell of a lot.
06-07-2007, 08:04 AM
#7797
Sorry guys shameless plug here, selling my TAO5R please check it out Thanks!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=167010
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=167010
06-07-2007, 08:16 AM
#7798
Probably bad part...
I ran mine with a Novak 13.5R and never noticed a bind....Solara on this thread has run his with a 4.5R and noticed no problems either.
As for this weird static and sparking issue...That has to be isolated or bad wiring. With all the wires needed to run a Novak BL system, transponder, and fan on a TA05R things can get bunched up. Also I would think running on carpet would cause this static/spark thing to happen even more. After 6-7 runs on ozite, GTB system, KO 2143 servo, and personal transponder mounted I had ZERO issue with static/sparking/glitches.
Unless you are trying to push another .001sec out of each lap I would rather use the sandpaper over a real spool any day. A real spool is great but there is no "give" when you crash. So the end result could be a decent amount of broken parts. The sandpaper spool will let you have something that's locked down but still "give" in a crash. This can save you some cvd's, outdrives, etc
Plus cardboard is practically free :P
I ran mine with a Novak 13.5R and never noticed a bind....Solara on this thread has run his with a 4.5R and noticed no problems either.
As for this weird static and sparking issue...That has to be isolated or bad wiring. With all the wires needed to run a Novak BL system, transponder, and fan on a TA05R things can get bunched up. Also I would think running on carpet would cause this static/spark thing to happen even more. After 6-7 runs on ozite, GTB system, KO 2143 servo, and personal transponder mounted I had ZERO issue with static/sparking/glitches.
My old Losi G+ came with little sandpaper pads that you could put in the diff to achieve this. Never tried it but kept them nevertheless
Plus cardboard is practically free :P
06-07-2007, 08:36 AM
#7799
I've run an Orion 4800 in my car for a year and the car is about 15 grams off side to side...it ballances very well with the Lipo.
I have a ? ,
Can you balance a TA-05R between left and right side with weights and still keep it at 1525 grams (with standard body, rubber tyres,mtr esc etc.. )
even with ib4200 6 cell pack which weigh in at 440grams.
as looking at the chassis design the batt sits out from centre of chassis alot compared to alot of the new cars.
like is it a light car to start with, so as can put weights on mtr side to balance weight of car?
Can you balance a TA-05R between left and right side with weights and still keep it at 1525 grams (with standard body, rubber tyres,mtr esc etc.. )
even with ib4200 6 cell pack which weigh in at 440grams.
as looking at the chassis design the batt sits out from centre of chassis alot compared to alot of the new cars.
like is it a light car to start with, so as can put weights on mtr side to balance weight of car?
06-07-2007, 08:48 AM
#7800
Yes...ran with Nexus last night, his TA05R (just like mine) is definitely capable to run against the big dogs like Mi3, Corally or even TC5...I ran mine with rubber/13.5, foams w/13.5, foams with 4.5 outdoor and rubber w/4.5 outdoor...so far, no diff problem, no glitch problem, no chassis static problem, no center motor mount binding problem.......overall, a good $200 RC car for mulitple motor speed and mulitple tires and indoor/outdoor track. A car to keep for awhile definitely...
The only problem is....using SPOOL. Now, it is to my understand that, a stock TA05R just cannot use the spool without changing 2 things (1 of the 2, your choice)
(1) shorter CVD........or
(2) wider pivot blocks @ front
Both will give the front track width wider, in order to create more space between the end bone and the spool's outdirve....that was my problem last week when I was running 4.5 with spool...when I was turning, the whole front will vibrate like they are going to fall apart...it did not break anything for me just because the spool/cvd were JUST barely has enough space for each other...but I am sure if I keep running it for another day, something will break..
About mod a front diff to be the spool methrod mentioned from NEXUS...it is a cheap way to try a spool without spending $25...however, here is the warning, the OUTDRIVE of your diff is plastic....and by using SPOOL, the plastic outdrive just will not cut it. If you don't want to ruin that ball diff outdrive, just try the spool for a short period of time and see you like it or not...and do not keep using it as a spool, that outdrive will not last. Thats why the Tamiya Spool I have is hard metal material...there is a reason about it.
The only problem is....using SPOOL. Now, it is to my understand that, a stock TA05R just cannot use the spool without changing 2 things (1 of the 2, your choice)
(1) shorter CVD........or
(2) wider pivot blocks @ front
Both will give the front track width wider, in order to create more space between the end bone and the spool's outdirve....that was my problem last week when I was running 4.5 with spool...when I was turning, the whole front will vibrate like they are going to fall apart...it did not break anything for me just because the spool/cvd were JUST barely has enough space for each other...but I am sure if I keep running it for another day, something will break..
About mod a front diff to be the spool methrod mentioned from NEXUS...it is a cheap way to try a spool without spending $25...however, here is the warning, the OUTDRIVE of your diff is plastic....and by using SPOOL, the plastic outdrive just will not cut it. If you don't want to ruin that ball diff outdrive, just try the spool for a short period of time and see you like it or not...and do not keep using it as a spool, that outdrive will not last. Thats why the Tamiya Spool I have is hard metal material...there is a reason about it.
