Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#7771
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
I ran my TA05R with 4.5 brushless the 2nd time, and this time, on a brand new prepared permenant track that is silky smooth.............the complaint is NOT on the track this time, it is on the TA05R and I have no idea why that happen...
When I turn the steering full left and full right...while holding throttle to 1/2 throttle (forget about full throttle)...the whole front vibrate big time and make some weird noise...
I am not new to RC..and this TA05R is stock with only TAMIYA options..I added the front spool this time. I see no metal dust or plastic dust indicated something is binding after 20 minutes of run with the 4.5 except everytime I turn, my car PUSH and those who saw my car running all heard some noise from my car...(not rubbing body either...)
I have no idea for now....
When I turn the steering full left and full right...while holding throttle to 1/2 throttle (forget about full throttle)...the whole front vibrate big time and make some weird noise...
I am not new to RC..and this TA05R is stock with only TAMIYA options..I added the front spool this time. I see no metal dust or plastic dust indicated something is binding after 20 minutes of run with the 4.5 except everytime I turn, my car PUSH and those who saw my car running all heard some noise from my car...(not rubbing body either...)
I have no idea for now....
#7772
I ran my TA05R with 4.5 brushless the 2nd time, and this time, on a brand new prepared permenant track that is silky smooth.............the complaint is NOT on the track this time, it is on the TA05R and I have no idea why that happen...
When I turn the steering full left and full right...while holding throttle to 1/2 throttle (forget about full throttle)...the whole front vibrate big time and make some weird noise...
I am not new to RC..and this TA05R is stock with only TAMIYA options..I added the front spool this time. I see no metal dust or plastic dust indicated something is binding after 20 minutes of run with the 4.5 except everytime I turn, my car PUSH and those who saw my car running all heard some noise from my car...(not rubbing body either...)
I have no idea for now....
When I turn the steering full left and full right...while holding throttle to 1/2 throttle (forget about full throttle)...the whole front vibrate big time and make some weird noise...
I am not new to RC..and this TA05R is stock with only TAMIYA options..I added the front spool this time. I see no metal dust or plastic dust indicated something is binding after 20 minutes of run with the 4.5 except everytime I turn, my car PUSH and those who saw my car running all heard some noise from my car...(not rubbing body either...)
I have no idea for now....
Maybe the inside wheel is spinning because of the spool. I have just run with a spool for the first time and I thought I heard that very thing when accelerating HARD mid corner.
It makes sense to me because you have zero diff action. Try the stock diff again and see if the vibration goes away. I think 4.5 is a bit MEAN for a stock TA05
#7773
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I think you 2 are right on...make it 3, my buddy who has the 415, MSX, MSXXX EVo3 Evo 4....etc that deal with Tamiya for so long saying because I was using the SPOOL....I have to get a shorter CVD bone...NOW, that really make sense because I do see Tamiya have 136 different length of CVD bone for "SOME" reason...and that is WHY....
I have not open the diff case and measure, but I can tell, the end of the bone right now is TIGHT, but not binding...however, with the 4.5 motor power, and when the steering is turning...that little space will not cut it...
I have not open the diff case and measure, but I can tell, the end of the bone right now is TIGHT, but not binding...however, with the 4.5 motor power, and when the steering is turning...that little space will not cut it...
#7774
Not to change subject too much, but when you guys run the TA05 with a 27-turn motor for a stock class, do you run one-ways or spool setup? Does one tend to work better than the other with the slower motors?
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
#7775
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
First rubber tire asphalt race ever!!
So it was my first ever rubber tire asphalt race. I ran some Sorex 28R's on Tamiya rims(no offset), 2 degree camber all around, yellow front springs, red rear springs, toe in front and rear, rear 2 degrees, front 1 degree, and 6mm ride hieght. Car was quite loose off power and pushed on power that was until my tire glue let go.....
First question, I'm still new to racing not even one year, what kind of droop setting should I be running with this car, because I thought that might be my issue. I know it could be a number of things, but any help on setup would be great.
Second the Tamiya rims I used were clear ones and I used CA glue on the tires and they came apart in the A main, first A main I've made it to in Stock needless to say it was a last place finish, but anyways glueing the tire should I sand the rim first or anything else like that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
One other thing right now the car has diff front and back with a centre one way, I have a front oneway, but have never tried it. Our track is 100 ft by 50 ft and pretty open, would a front one way work better?
First question, I'm still new to racing not even one year, what kind of droop setting should I be running with this car, because I thought that might be my issue. I know it could be a number of things, but any help on setup would be great.
Second the Tamiya rims I used were clear ones and I used CA glue on the tires and they came apart in the A main, first A main I've made it to in Stock needless to say it was a last place finish, but anyways glueing the tire should I sand the rim first or anything else like that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
One other thing right now the car has diff front and back with a centre one way, I have a front oneway, but have never tried it. Our track is 100 ft by 50 ft and pretty open, would a front one way work better?
#7776
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Spool,diff and one-way! RE: droop
Cutwo,
If you measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the chassis, I run 23mm in the front and 25mm in the rear. I believe that works out to about 4.5mm in the front and 3mm in the rear, depending on tires, It's critical that the droop is exactly the same from left to right.There was a great article by Dave Jun in one of the RC magazines last month that is very helpful, I try to find out which one it was, I have so many!
If I run diff. in the front and the rear I run direct center pully not one-way. Only use one-way if your running a one-way up front.
If you run a spool up front run the direct pully also and try and use the least amout of dual rate in your controller as possible or turn down the steering endpoints, the universals will start to bind if the throw of the steering is too extreme. It's actually better to learn to drive using the throttle on and off in the turns to get the car to swing around vs. pushing the servo to the max to get it to turn.Also using the steel outdrive on the spool will cause more vibration, so I use the delrin outdrive with the MRE coupler. You just have to grind a little of the bottom of the bulkhead for clearance. My little secret!
Hope this is of some help to you!
If you measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the chassis, I run 23mm in the front and 25mm in the rear. I believe that works out to about 4.5mm in the front and 3mm in the rear, depending on tires, It's critical that the droop is exactly the same from left to right.There was a great article by Dave Jun in one of the RC magazines last month that is very helpful, I try to find out which one it was, I have so many!
If I run diff. in the front and the rear I run direct center pully not one-way. Only use one-way if your running a one-way up front.
If you run a spool up front run the direct pully also and try and use the least amout of dual rate in your controller as possible or turn down the steering endpoints, the universals will start to bind if the throw of the steering is too extreme. It's actually better to learn to drive using the throttle on and off in the turns to get the car to swing around vs. pushing the servo to the max to get it to turn.Also using the steel outdrive on the spool will cause more vibration, so I use the delrin outdrive with the MRE coupler. You just have to grind a little of the bottom of the bulkhead for clearance. My little secret!
Hope this is of some help to you!
#7777
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Not to change subject too much, but when you guys run the TA05 with a 27-turn motor for a stock class, do you run one-ways or spool setup? Does one tend to work better than the other with the slower motors?
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
#7778
Hop Up
Looking for after market hop up for TA05 bulkhead...
Aluminum bulkhead got one?
Aluminum bulkhead got one?
#7779
Tech Initiate
#7780
#7782
Xenon makes the TA05 bulkheads also.
My experience has been that a spool is easier to drive on low traction surfaces and tends to make the car tight when
the traction comes up. The one-way works well on medium to high traction smooth surfaces. If you can get the one-
way to work, its usually a little faster because corner speeds will be a little higher.
Of course this all depends on driving style.
The spool tends to be better for an agressive driving style (drive deep into
the corners, brake and throttle out).
You can't lay into the brakes very hard with a one-way. So it favors a
smoother driving style that uses less brakes.
My experience has been that a spool is easier to drive on low traction surfaces and tends to make the car tight when
the traction comes up. The one-way works well on medium to high traction smooth surfaces. If you can get the one-
way to work, its usually a little faster because corner speeds will be a little higher.
Of course this all depends on driving style.
The spool tends to be better for an agressive driving style (drive deep into
the corners, brake and throttle out).
You can't lay into the brakes very hard with a one-way. So it favors a
smoother driving style that uses less brakes.
#7783
Not to change subject too much, but when you guys run the TA05 with a 27-turn motor for a stock class, do you run one-ways or spool setup? Does one tend to work better than the other with the slower motors?
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
Hebiki, if you are selling your MRE after the beginning of July, I would be interested in talking a look at it!!!
I found one-ways harder to drive, it took me about three months to equal my diff lap times when I swapped over. My daughter loved the one-ways from day one and found extra speed, mainly thru carrying a higher corner speed.
She TQ and won the club round (27 stock) for the first time last sunday, including beating me. She hasn't stopped bragging yet.
#7784
Thanks for the input, I will be trying some things with the one-ways this weekend.
I was also wondering if anyone could tell me where to find info on the Tamiya B3 tires; stuff like optimal tire temps, what track temps is runs best on, etc. I got some tire warmers and I need to find out what temps to stop heating the tires at.
Hebiki, you going to be at the Tamiya track anytime soon?
I was also wondering if anyone could tell me where to find info on the Tamiya B3 tires; stuff like optimal tire temps, what track temps is runs best on, etc. I got some tire warmers and I need to find out what temps to stop heating the tires at.
Hebiki, you going to be at the Tamiya track anytime soon?
#7785
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Thanks for the input, I will be trying some things with the one-ways this weekend.
I was also wondering if anyone could tell me where to find info on the Tamiya B3 tires; stuff like optimal tire temps, what track temps is runs best on, etc. I got some tire warmers and I need to find out what temps to stop heating the tires at.
Hebiki, you going to be at the Tamiya track anytime soon?
I was also wondering if anyone could tell me where to find info on the Tamiya B3 tires; stuff like optimal tire temps, what track temps is runs best on, etc. I got some tire warmers and I need to find out what temps to stop heating the tires at.
Hebiki, you going to be at the Tamiya track anytime soon?