68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
06-11-2007, 08:36 AM
#7816
Thanks for that 
06-11-2007, 11:53 AM
#7817
I ran the car outdoor @ a smaller track, with stock setup, even F/R sway bar on, with CO27 motor ( 3 race days old F brush, 3 race days old uncut arm....) with 4800 lipo.............the car ran faster lap time then 4.5 brushless @ the main. The Ta05R with stock motor is JUST as fast as the $400 units especially on OUTDOOR. I am very happy of this $200 plastic car.
06-11-2007, 12:03 PM
#7818
Guys...thanks for all the info about steering. Like I mentioned.....it is the SPOOL causing my steering vibrate when turning. I ran the DIFF now and there are ZERO vibration when I was turning. Even with rubber tires, car has plenty steering (steering was limit to 75% only on my radio).
I will try TA05R with 8x1 this weekend at the above track. I am 99% sure the steering will be back even with old nitro foams.
I will try TA05R with 8x1 this weekend at the above track. I am 99% sure the steering will be back even with old nitro foams.
06-13-2007, 08:12 AM
#7819
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
wheel hop?
Well I got my droop sorted out from last week so its not soo loose on entrance, but I went to the front one way since I all ready had a center one way. Car was great except I had motor issues and ended up in the B main this week. For the final I swapped motors and car was awesome except going through the turn I had some rear wheel hop. I thought I had a tire coming off the rim, but after the race they were all fine not even a mark on the rims. Was the insert I put in too soft or what would cause the rear to hop? It was even rained during our main so it was really slick and the rear still had the hop in the corner. Any help would be great. My time in the B main would have put me third in the A main so I figure the car is working pretty good!
06-13-2007, 08:35 AM
#7820
Ive had issues of wheel nuts working their way loose 
the easy fix is to file the inner part of the nut, so it bites into the plastic of the wheel and doesnt vibrate loose.
As for hopping, cant say ive had that, maybe make the cars wheelbase a little longer so it feels a little more stable? Might have been the wet track doing it though
the easy fix is to file the inner part of the nut, so it bites into the plastic of the wheel and doesnt vibrate loose.As for hopping, cant say ive had that, maybe make the cars wheelbase a little longer so it feels a little more stable? Might have been the wet track doing it though
06-13-2007, 10:01 AM
#7821
Noob question: (one of many to come if I buy this TA05 ) is $140 bucks shipped for a brand new TA05 (the nsx body) worth my while? Im kicking around getting back into RC touring and have narrowed it down to a Ta05 or a AE tc4. Thoughts?
) is $140 bucks shipped for a brand new TA05 (the nsx body) worth my while? Im kicking around getting back into RC touring and have narrowed it down to a Ta05 or a AE tc4. Thoughts?
06-13-2007, 10:13 AM
#7822
getting the "R" will be a much better value for your $$$. the different hopups they add in there will more than make up the $60-$110 difference in price btw the "R" and the original kit. dont even get the local RCTechers started on the whole "shaft" vs. "belt" debate.
06-13-2007, 10:20 AM
#7823
no its not worth your while. but a $200-$250 TA05R is! getting the "R" will be a much better value for your $$$. the different hopups they add in there will more than make up the $60-$110 difference in price btw the "R" and the original kit.
dont even get the local RCTechers started on the whole "shaft" vs. "belt" debate.
getting the "R" will be a much better value for your $$$. the different hopups they add in there will more than make up the $60-$110 difference in price btw the "R" and the original kit. dont even get the local RCTechers started on the whole "shaft" vs. "belt" debate.
EDIT: Im about to pull the trigger on the TA05-R kit. Can anyone suggest tools I will need to assemble it? I know most kits come with little hex wrenches and stuff, but I want some quality hex drivers/screw drivers to assemble it with. I havent read the entire 260 pages of this thread, so forgive me if I am asking a question that has already been asked
Feel free to suggest anything else that you think I need to purchase as well.
Last edited by Frost99999; 06-13-2007 at 02:16 PM.
06-13-2007, 02:25 PM
#7824
Get a set of hex screws to replace the Phillips in the kit. See my blog www.sosidge.com for a list.
As far as tools go, if you decide to go for the hex kit then a quality 2mm driver is essential, the keys will rip your hands up in no time. I have had many brands of wrench over the years, RPM, Associated, SH, Wiha, all have been of fine quality.
You will also need Phillips screwdrivers, side cutters, pliers etc, general tools that should also be of good quality.
Apart from that I think the kit should go together pretty easily, everything you need is in there, just take your time and enjoy it. I put a list of build tips on my blog too.
As far as tools go, if you decide to go for the hex kit then a quality 2mm driver is essential, the keys will rip your hands up in no time. I have had many brands of wrench over the years, RPM, Associated, SH, Wiha, all have been of fine quality.
You will also need Phillips screwdrivers, side cutters, pliers etc, general tools that should also be of good quality.
Apart from that I think the kit should go together pretty easily, everything you need is in there, just take your time and enjoy it. I put a list of build tips on my blog too.
06-13-2007, 04:17 PM
#7825
I just bit the bullet and did it, thanks for the advice! I havent done rc touring in almost 10 years, so I really have lots to learn. Im going to be studying this thread like crazy
