Team Associated TC6 Thread
#8086
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Here's my TC6.1 WC. I haven't ran Associated for a few years now. We just ran the Australian Titles EP Onroad and I thought I would try the associated for the job. I had a few problems with the car when I first built it, but associated have agreed to help me with replacement parts. The shocks were the main issue (I was asking questions earlier in the thread). The shafts were not lathed properly. Here's the pic...
I ran the car in stock, which in Australia this time was 17.5 boosted. I live in Queensland and we normally run blinky 17.5, so the boosted idea was a bit new. My shock replacements haven't come yet, so I fitted some TRF shocks with 30wt oil and HPI silver springs (sometimes tamiya white, depending on the weather!)
I had absolutely no practice with the car, so I had 4 qualifiers to try and do the best I could. We just had a crap load of thunderstorms come through the track, so the weather and track conditions were changing continiously. I ended up qualifying 6th in Australia, but knew I could have done better if I had more time, or if I was able to make the practice days! I felt confident with a 4th or better.
I added a few RSD parts to the car. I must admit that I was sceptical about the battery hold downs, but they didn't fail on me all weekend. I added a little bit of foam on the underside of the battery to avoid chassis tweak. I'm very happy with them, and they're easy to use.
The RSD fan mount... I can't recommend enough. It's awesome! depending on motor position, just put washes under the fan mount to move it slightly away from the motor if you have a small pinion and spur. I had no washes under mine and the button head screw holding it in was about 1mm away from the motor using an 80/26 combo.
I also changed the servo position by using an ARC R10 floating servo mount. I couldn't go wrong for $10 (I'm pretty sure it was that cheap!). I drilled a couple of holes in the chassis, counter sunk them, and screwed on the servo mount. It seems to work really well. As for performance difference... I have no idea. I only did this to forget about the 'flat spot' under the servo, but I have read other reports where the driver has not noticed any differences at all. It does however, obviously create more room on the chassis for electronics.
The car was pretty good in handling, but all competitors were under the pump because of the storms, hail, sunshine, heat, cold, rain, wind, and more all in the two day event. The car was good... the driver could have been better!
Here's a few pics of the car.
Nice work, Associated. It's a great car for a great price.
I ran the car in stock, which in Australia this time was 17.5 boosted. I live in Queensland and we normally run blinky 17.5, so the boosted idea was a bit new. My shock replacements haven't come yet, so I fitted some TRF shocks with 30wt oil and HPI silver springs (sometimes tamiya white, depending on the weather!)
I had absolutely no practice with the car, so I had 4 qualifiers to try and do the best I could. We just had a crap load of thunderstorms come through the track, so the weather and track conditions were changing continiously. I ended up qualifying 6th in Australia, but knew I could have done better if I had more time, or if I was able to make the practice days! I felt confident with a 4th or better.
I added a few RSD parts to the car. I must admit that I was sceptical about the battery hold downs, but they didn't fail on me all weekend. I added a little bit of foam on the underside of the battery to avoid chassis tweak. I'm very happy with them, and they're easy to use.
The RSD fan mount... I can't recommend enough. It's awesome! depending on motor position, just put washes under the fan mount to move it slightly away from the motor if you have a small pinion and spur. I had no washes under mine and the button head screw holding it in was about 1mm away from the motor using an 80/26 combo.
I also changed the servo position by using an ARC R10 floating servo mount. I couldn't go wrong for $10 (I'm pretty sure it was that cheap!). I drilled a couple of holes in the chassis, counter sunk them, and screwed on the servo mount. It seems to work really well. As for performance difference... I have no idea. I only did this to forget about the 'flat spot' under the servo, but I have read other reports where the driver has not noticed any differences at all. It does however, obviously create more room on the chassis for electronics.
The car was pretty good in handling, but all competitors were under the pump because of the storms, hail, sunshine, heat, cold, rain, wind, and more all in the two day event. The car was good... the driver could have been better!
Here's a few pics of the car.
Nice work, Associated. It's a great car for a great price.
#8087
Hey All,
I direct this to everyone who visits this thread and more specifically to Rick as my satisfaction with the TC6.1 comes largely in part from mirroring most of one of your setups.
If you could look at my posted setup and provide any suggestions for change based on the fact that I will be running a second car in mod within a couple of weeks (I am an offroad guy passing the winter by with onroad - the last time I ran mod was back in brushed 7 turn foam tire days).
I am very happy with my 17.5 setup but I am more curious as to reccomended changes for my mod car. I am also open to changes to my current setup in 17.5 as I am sure there is improvement to be made.
Thanks in advance,
Kane
I direct this to everyone who visits this thread and more specifically to Rick as my satisfaction with the TC6.1 comes largely in part from mirroring most of one of your setups.
If you could look at my posted setup and provide any suggestions for change based on the fact that I will be running a second car in mod within a couple of weeks (I am an offroad guy passing the winter by with onroad - the last time I ran mod was back in brushed 7 turn foam tire days).
I am very happy with my 17.5 setup but I am more curious as to reccomended changes for my mod car. I am also open to changes to my current setup in 17.5 as I am sure there is improvement to be made.
Thanks in advance,
Kane
#8088
Tech Regular
Hi Shev - thanks for the pics of the car. I had the same problem with ione of my shock shafts. Just one - which I thought was interesting. I've also got a flowting servo mount on the way, and wanted to ask you a question. I can see how the servo goes in, but how did you attach the other end of the steering link to the bell crank? The stock setup is positioned so it won't work with a transverse mounted servo. I'l admit, I haven't looked closely at it so the solution may be obvious, but was hoping since its working for you you could save me some thinkiing!
Thanks!
Thanks!
#8089
Tech Regular
Just reread my post. If I could type I'd be dangerous. Sorry for typos...
#8090
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Hi Shev - thanks for the pics of the car. I had the same problem with ione of my shock shafts. Just one - which I thought was interesting. I've also got a flowting servo mount on the way, and wanted to ask you a question. I can see how the servo goes in, but how did you attach the other end of the steering link to the bell crank? The stock setup is positioned so it won't work with a transverse mounted servo. I'l admit, I haven't looked closely at it so the solution may be obvious, but was hoping since its working for you you could save me some thinkiing!
Thanks!
Thanks!
I dremeled off the part of the steering arm that originally fits to the servo horn. Because of it's shape, it wouldn't swing under the top deck. You can see part of the left over tab under the top deck near the servo in the first picture. This was all a bit risky if my floating servo mount didn't work. The ackerman screw was replaced with a long ball stud that would do the same job as the screw, but allow me to attach a turn buckle. The servo being turned 90 degrees means that the turnbuckle now goes straight from the servo horn to the ackerman screw/ball stud, which can be seen in the first and second picture.
#8091
for sure...
I dremeled off the part of the steering arm that originally fits to the servo horn. Because of it's shape, it wouldn't swing under the top deck. You can see part of the left over tab under the top deck near the servo in the first picture. This was all a bit risky if my floating servo mount didn't work. The ackerman screw was replaced with a long ball stud that would do the same job as the screw, but allow me to attach a turn buckle. The servo being turned 90 degrees means that the turnbuckle now goes straight from the servo horn to the ackerman screw/ball stud, which can be seen in the first and second picture.
I dremeled off the part of the steering arm that originally fits to the servo horn. Because of it's shape, it wouldn't swing under the top deck. You can see part of the left over tab under the top deck near the servo in the first picture. This was all a bit risky if my floating servo mount didn't work. The ackerman screw was replaced with a long ball stud that would do the same job as the screw, but allow me to attach a turn buckle. The servo being turned 90 degrees means that the turnbuckle now goes straight from the servo horn to the ackerman screw/ball stud, which can be seen in the first and second picture.
Thanks for sharing your mod so far.
1 extra request - can you show photo of bottom chassis where you drilled holes to fit the ARC servo mount???
I am in the process of doing the same mod. Just that have not decided yet which piece of servo mount to go for. (Yokomo, CSO (for T4), VBC, ARC are in my mind now)
Thanks.
#8092
Hi, guys,
just being curious... the aluminium of TC6/TV6.1 is made of what material?? 7075??
just being curious... the aluminium of TC6/TV6.1 is made of what material?? 7075??
#8095
Reedy Cyber Monday Sale
#8096
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Hi, Shev,
Thanks for sharing your mod so far.
1 extra request - can you show photo of bottom chassis where you drilled holes to fit the ARC servo mount???
I am in the process of doing the same mod. Just that have not decided yet which piece of servo mount to go for. (Yokomo, CSO (for T4), VBC, ARC are in my mind now)
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing your mod so far.
1 extra request - can you show photo of bottom chassis where you drilled holes to fit the ARC servo mount???
I am in the process of doing the same mod. Just that have not decided yet which piece of servo mount to go for. (Yokomo, CSO (for T4), VBC, ARC are in my mind now)
Thanks.
#8097
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
#8099
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Hi, Shev,
Thanks for sharing your mod so far.
1 extra request - can you show photo of bottom chassis where you drilled holes to fit the ARC servo mount???
I am in the process of doing the same mod. Just that have not decided yet which piece of servo mount to go for. (Yokomo, CSO (for T4), VBC, ARC are in my mind now)
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing your mod so far.
1 extra request - can you show photo of bottom chassis where you drilled holes to fit the ARC servo mount???
I am in the process of doing the same mod. Just that have not decided yet which piece of servo mount to go for. (Yokomo, CSO (for T4), VBC, ARC are in my mind now)
Thanks.
#8100
Tech Initiate
Now,..
Yokomo 1 piece servo mount works
ARC floating servo mount works
See Spec R 1 piece servo mount here
http://slowbunnyrc.blogspot.com/
Will report back if there is any issue with this...
Yokomo 1 piece servo mount works
ARC floating servo mount works
See Spec R 1 piece servo mount here
http://slowbunnyrc.blogspot.com/
Will report back if there is any issue with this...