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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 11-22-2012, 01:22 PM
  #8116  
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Last edited by 20967; 11-22-2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:28 PM
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Such a beauty! The Yokomo mount looks as if it was made for the TC6

Just the wiring could be a little more efficient
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:28 PM
  #8118  
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Here my work on the TC6, it will be shown on the WC if the race test will a good result. Thanks to Kevin Kreft for info and other guys who with their jobs have allowed me to do this
Parts needs:
Yokomo floating servo mount
Reflex racing Tensioner/ Battery Spacer
Lexan 6 mm for antenna support
Kimbrough Servo Saver








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Old 11-22-2012, 01:51 PM
  #8119  
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Last edited by 20967; 11-22-2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: ERROR
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:24 PM
  #8120  
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Originally Posted by wtcc
Such a beauty! The Yokomo mount looks as if it was made for the TC6

Just the wiring could be a little more efficient
Yes the servo mount is beautiful.
The esc cables must be shortened and arranged together better in this new set-up.

Enrico
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:35 PM
  #8121  
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Originally Posted by racer_hh
Hi All,
I have one strange thing, maybe it is not really an issue but let me explain:
My car drives always sligthly to the right. I have set it up -1,5 camber all 4 wheels. At the front both sides -1 toe (all other like caster etc are default like described in the manual). I have the feeling if I roll it manually it is fine, but as far as I drive the car goes slightly to the right and I need to trim to the left. I tried already to change the tires from left to right and placed the accu from left to right but still the same effect. Hope somebody know why.

Thanks in advance
Is this maybe caused by the diff? or do you have a similar behaviour?
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:28 PM
  #8122  
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Default steering binding

I need some help...when tightening the camber ball link on the steering block, it tends to bind until I loosen it off a bit. Is it not supposed to be tight or am I missing something?
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bertottius
I need some help...when tightening the camber ball link on the steering block, it tends to bind until I loosen it off a bit. Is it not supposed to be tight or am I missing something?
From my experience it sounds like the turnbuckle threads are pushing into the inside of the eyelit from either too short of camber link or too long of a turnbuckle? Check to see if you've got the right turnbuckle for the right link.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:33 AM
  #8124  
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Originally Posted by LEM C
From my experience it sounds like the turnbuckle threads are pushing into the inside of the eyelit from either too short of camber link or too long of a turnbuckle? Check to see if you've got the right turnbuckle for the right link.
No that's fine. The steering block binds when steering until I back off the ball itself. Does that make sense? lol.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:35 AM
  #8125  
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Originally Posted by bertottius
No that's fine. The steering block binds when steering until I back off the ball itself. Does that make sense? lol.
If you have the 6.1 make sure that the chub inserts are the same # and oriented correctly. Use a long(silver) ball stud and not a black one. The only other thing is that there is some problem with the top hat bushing. That bushing has to get clamped down against the steering block/knuckle. That bushing is installed from the inside of the chub. Make sure that it the flange portion is against the steering knuckle and there is no flashing/debris that locks it to the chub when tightening the ball stud.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:43 AM
  #8126  
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Originally Posted by bertottius
No that's fine. The steering block binds when steering until I back off the ball itself. Does that make sense? lol.
Somebody in an earlier post said that the bushing was a little too short and had associated replace them. You can always buy a pack of spare bushings as they are nearly impossible to find on the track if you lose one. Make sure you install them in the proper direction and it couldn't hurt to sand the "c" hub a little bit to be sure there are no burrs causing a bad fit.
Oh yeah, most setup have a 1mm shim under the ball stud, the threads may be a tiny bit long if no shim is used.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:45 AM
  #8127  
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OK. I will check all of those out!! Thanks guys.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:01 PM
  #8128  
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So while repairing a broken C-hub I noticed that with the bushings both inserted number side up in the C-hub, it looks like they are at zero degrees of caster. The manual is non-specific and I read it as both bushings should have the number facing up.

Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?

Thanks,
Kane
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:49 PM
  #8129  
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Default Bearings

How often should the bearings need to be replaced in the TC6.1?
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kane-o
So while repairing a broken C-hub I noticed that with the bushings both inserted number side up in the C-hub, it looks like they are at zero degrees of caster. The manual is non-specific and I read it as both bushings should have the number facing up.

Or should the front bushing be number side up and the rear bushing number side down?

Thanks,
Kane
Front insert number up, rear number down. If you look at the back of the inserts closely, they interlock... they don't actually fit in the block if both numbers are up, unless you jam them.
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