Originally Posted by axle182

+1. This is why the incorrect information must be corrected. Sure there are ways to "take the easy way out" to do something, and when pressed for time we all have at one point or another. But unless the person asking for information requests the "cheapest and easiest way regardless of the end result", you cant continue to argue with the correct way to do things. Geometry PROVES that having the servo horn at 90 deg to the steering arm is the correct way to set your steering, due to equal steering throw left to right. This isn't an opinion. An opinion is "this works for me".

On bearings, I have always used the cheap metal bearings, removed the grease, and used a little Elf high speed oil. They last a decent time and aren't expensive to replace. I have 1 or 2 of each size in my RC box, to replace in an emergency.

Also spend time to ensure your not pinching the wheel/hub assembly when you attach the wheel. make sure you have at least one small shim between the hub and the bearing. Little things like that can make sure you have minimum friction on the rear wheels.

Originally Posted by M05 newbie

So just to clarify the steering servo saver should be 90 degrees to the steering rod or the steering link on the tie rods??

Originally Posted by eR1c

guys, guys, guys...

hesitant to get involved, but just want to remind you all that we are grown men talking about toy cars. Let's take a deep breath and go easy on each other.

Not taking any sides here, but you all (including Sakadachi and Granpa) have provided me great advice that has been extremely helpful. Sometimes the info I've received has worked for me and sometimes not. Regardless it's all been helpful as it would have taken way longer to figure out on my own, nor am I sure I would have discovered various solutions or things to try. We are all here to help each other with what we know, believe to be true, and have discovered. Looking at the cars on our track, our top 3 driver's cars are setup differently yet they are all very close to each other in performance. I take that to believe there are different ways to get to the end result and various setups work for various drivers.

that's all I have to say, ...you guys are my friends even if I've never met you in person. Would hate for this to escalate further.

Originally Posted by axle182

Well Geometry is proof that your way is incorrect, as is the M chassis manual. For the servo horn to have the same effect on the steering linkage, left to right (IE move the steering linkage the same distance), you must start at 90 deg. If you don't, for the same rotation of the servo left to right, your steering linkage will NOT move the same. Yes the manual is incorrect. Read a TC manual, they put the horn on at an angel, precisely for this reason. The M chassis has the servo horn square to the servo for simplicity reasons. They also supply the kit with terrible tires. This doesn't mean you can argue that the kit tires are the best.
While I feel I know a lot about RC, I am always here to learn, and I have learnt so much from contributors like GP, Monkey, and Tony. Tony's website was the best mini site on the planet, and I learnt so many great things from it. I hope I have been able to give back too! Please stop taking these discussions personally, this isn't Sakadachi's M chassis thread, this is a public thread.

Originally Posted by sakadachi

Right, your horn should be positioned 90 degrees to your servo, radio steering trim centered or use a tad bit of sub-trim to get the horn 90 degrees.

Then place your car on the table so that your steering is straight (front wheels pointing straight).

Now adjust your long steering link rod's length so that your servo can remain in that 90 degree position while your wheels are straight.

(If you have a turnbuckle it makes it easier to setup, but not needed).

Originally Posted by Granpa

Here's my point. Since you didn't really read my post, that's what I said. I said to use the the sub trim to adjust to a perfect 90. The implication was that most servo horns,as you put it, won't come to 90 just use the sub trim. What I wanted the modeler to do was to spend a little time with the servo saver insert and try to get it as close to 90 as possible so that he didn't use much more than 10 points of sub trim.

Sure you can adjust the turning radius with end point adjustments and so on. you can use all the short cuts and make the car run straight, turn the same amount etc, but you still wind up with a car that's pure shitze.

Like I said, my advice is for the newer guy and not for the Pro's. If what I posted will give the guy a "square" car, leave it alone. All you do with short cut advice is to confuse the issue and encourage sloppy habits. Pro's like you know what you can short cut and what you probably shouldn't.

This is a personal preference, but I save the shortcut radio adjustments for temporary things like steering and throttle trim. I don't get off the drivers stand for example and adjust the linkages-----I'll use radio trims, but then I'll check the car over physically later. If it's more than a few points, I get off the stand, take off the body and go over the car. I know my car is square, so I'll know what to check and so will anyone who has taken the time to build a square car. This is why you won't see short cuts in my advice.

Now, I don't think I'm better than anyone cause I run at the Tamiya track. I usually post that as a disclaimer cause if the guy I'm posting to is running on a postage stamp size indoor carpet track, what I'm saying may not be valid for him. That's all period.

Originally Posted by M05 newbie

So just to clarify the steering servo saver should be 90 degrees to the steering rod or the steering link on the tie rods??

Originally Posted by sakadachi

Granpa, please see the quote above where I explained to M05newbie this am on how to setup the steering.

I am trying to figure out which portion you are stating where I am taking a short cut?

Originally Posted by dc661

does anyone have any tips on how to have the m05 v2 gear diff not leak?

Originally Posted by Granpa

To the steering rod that connects to the servo.



It's the part where you state the servo horn should be 90 to the servo. It should be 90 to the rod. More than one person has tried to explain why this is. Axle provided a beautiful diagram with values. If you don't get it, you don't get it. You get an "F" in Geometry 1.

In all seriousness tho, you're not always wrong. On occasion you've been quite insightful. No one is disagreeing with you as a personal thing. Many of us or maybe none of us know you, but you just aren't very respectful. For cryin' out loud----taking a whack at Tony F. Gray. Are you out of you freakin' mind????? He's done more for Mini than all of us combined ever will. Show the man some respect------I'll bet you didn't look at all the graphs and data in detail did you????? It's okay to disagree, but do so w/out some smart ass comment.

Originally Posted by sakadachi

Maybe I needed to put "while the long rod is disconnected from the servo horn" position the horn so that it is 90 degrees to the servo, radio trim to center, use sub-trim as necessary to achieve 90 degrees. I assumed that the long rod was already disconnected.

Then straighten the front wheels.

Now take your long steering rod length, adjust so that the servo horn remains 90 degrees while your front wheels are straight.

Then connect the rod.

That is what I've been trying to say all along.

Originally Posted by Granpa

Sorry man, you're just not getting it. The servo horn is 90 to the rod and not the servo when the front wheels are straight. If the servo horn is 90 to the servo body, the included angle in front of the servo will be less than 90 and more than 90 to the rear. This will give you less throw in front and more throw in back.

okay, if you can't see that, can't help you. We've all tried

Originally Posted by dc661

does anyone have any tips on how to have the m05 v2 gear diff not leak?