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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-27-2009, 01:33 PM
  #9631  
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I'm guessing all 4 corners, and the [now open] gearbox, but I get your point.
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:33 PM
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Actually Gaz,

I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!

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Old 07-27-2009, 02:40 PM
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Just got the alloy shocks for my new MO5, does anyone have a spring and piston,oil combo they would recommend for ashphalt.
Thanks guys.
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:45 PM
  #9634  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Actually Gaz,

I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!

Pah, small matters....when are you getting one to test? Just butcher an old Rover Mini body....
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer
Did you use a brand new 1150 bearing of great quality, I would not suggest a ceramic bearing either.
Well, I don't know if the quality was great but it was a fresh new bearing. I have a feeling that it's actually the balls in the diff itself. They've been around the track more than a few times.

Jim
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Old 07-27-2009, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Well, I don't know if the quality was great but it was a fresh new bearing. I have a feeling that it's actually the balls in the diff itself. They've been around the track more than a few times.

Jim
That might very well be the problem

I usually run the steel balls, and I sand the diff plates with 1500 grit sand paper from time to time
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:56 PM
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Does anybody know a part number for a gold plated female bullet connector that works with the Tamiya stock motor connectors??
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Core Creations
Does anybody know a part number for a gold plated female bullet connector that works with the Tamiya stock motor connectors??
Try RS components or Farnell if you have them over there. In Australia Jaycar or Alltronics have these every now and then.
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Actually Gaz,

I think the main issue with the car is finding a body that would fit?
There appears to be a long distance in front of the axles thats now filled with motor and transmission.. LWB BMW Mini shells have a fair bit of space, but whether it's enough is another thing altogether!

interesting. I just hope that gear box is covered. Basically a mini FF01 but the batt going down the middle. Seems like the only thing you convert are the gears and the arms.
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:26 AM
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bjspinner,

I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:

Front

3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring

Rear

3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.

I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.

With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hinders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over the front for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.

I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearing and add another large cone washer.

This is just my opinion.

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 07-29-2009 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:41 PM
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Default M05 Aluminum Pro Parts

I have lots of On Road TC experience, but now I'm looking to get in on the Mini Mania.

I've decided to purchase an M05 when my hobby shop gets them in next month. I have already picked up a set of the Tamiya M-Chassis shocks, and universals. I still need to get a set of bearings.

My question is, do the aluminum front and rear uprights included on the M05 Pro kit provide a performance advantage over the plastic uprights included in the M05 standard kit?
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:50 PM
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DEACON,

MO5 PRO does not come with aluminum front knuckles, these are a Tamiya Hop up purchased seperately. These do offer you three holes for steering linkage adjustment. The rear alloy hubs also have two holes which allow you to run differnt rear camber points. These are also another Tamiya Hop up part. if you decide to go this option then these use 1050 wheel bearings.
The plastic parts in the MO5 kit use 1150 bearings. I have not used the plastic parts on my MO5. I fitted the alloy from day one, so I can not make comparisons. Part numbers for the alloy bits are in this thread a few pages back.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by caltek1
bjspinner,

I took the M chassis TRF's off my MO3 and fitted them directly to my MO5. I am running the following:

Front

3 hole piston
50 wt oil
Blue TRF short spring

Rear

3 hole piston
40 wt oil
Yellow TRF short spring.

I have also used TRF short yellow springs F/R and TRF short Blue TRF springs F/R. It depends on the grip levels of your track. I will in the future be trying other spring combinations with added weight to the car.

With the HW 13T BL systems we use, the light weight of the car, hiders getting enough forward traction, to accelerate hard out of the corners. Presently my car is at 1348 gms and I will be trying to bring this up to at least 1450 gms. This weight I want to place over thefront for more traction and balance out the extra weight added to the rear by the relocation of the servo.

I also found building the ball diff as described was not tight enough for me so I left the three large cone washers and the two small cone washers, replaced the thrust washer with the 1150 bearing and was heaps tighter. The other way is to leave the thrust bearingand add another large cone washer.

This is just my opinion.

Regards,

Calvin.
Thanks Calvin you are a mountain of info, the help is very much appreciated.
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:24 PM
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I have been trying to read through this thread and I'm a bit confused. Why do they sell the M03 if the M05 is out? My LHS is ordering some Mini's this week and I would like to pick one up. Im not even sure what they are ordering. Should I call to specific ask that an M05 be ordered for me? Is there a big difference between the M03 and 05 that a novice would notice? Is either one competitive with each other?

Oh and what about the newer body style 03L? They have one of those in stock.

Last edited by CSaddict; 07-28-2009 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:38 PM
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a lot of people still use the MO3 since the M05 is fairly new hence the abundance of MO3 parts and kits at LHS.

i recommend you read this link to find out the differences between the MO3 vs the MO5 and see the advantages of the latter over the former:

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/

happy reading
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