649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-16-2016, 08:24 AM
#2611
08-16-2016, 08:25 AM
#2612
Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
My least favorite of the bunch was the Schumacher due to issues with it breaking and hinge pins falling out. I wasn't a belt guy even though they have been one of the top cars at our track.
The XB2ca was by far my favorite besides its natural push. Only sold it due to cost to maintaining multiple cars for the family to run. The car is easy to drive and the quality is amazing.
The TLR conversion was the one I regret selling. It just drove consistently fast no matter what the setup was but was the most expensive to build with the 3.0 kit and TLR conversion.
The YZ-2ca I still own for now as my daughter is cutting her teeth into racing with it. By far it has the most steering response out of them or as some say twitchy fast steering.
Our new cars are the B6 due to local track having parts on hand for it. It is a good car as well. Taking some time to find the right setup but my car is a rocket on carpet.
We just switched last week from Astro to EOS carpet on my local track which I have only ran the B6 and YZ-2ca on the new carpet. Both cars are amazing on the carpet.
08-16-2016, 08:28 AM
#2613
This is very helpful. Thx. Medium bite clay is what I'm buying a car for. Good unbiased review
08-16-2016, 08:44 AM
#2615
Probably blasphemous but I took my B6D out on dirt. I didn't race it because there was enough guys to run Truck so I ran my T5M. But I did practice with it and compared it to my B5.
I used the B6D setup in the manual and it was quite dialed. Had a push and needed a little more on power steering but wow does it have rear traction and flys like a dream. Running weight was 1502g using the standard transmission.
To be fair I had worked on the setup on my B5, I was still struggling with oversteer issues but was really good until it wasn't and then was snap loose. I had similar average lap times between both buggies but had my quickest laps with the B6D. I think more practice and setup tweaks I can get it even that much faster then my B5.
A quick note: Everyone at the track runs rear motor , except my son who runs a B5M and he usually finishes mid-pack.
The B6D felt nimble and planted in essentially box stock forum. During practice I was running right with one of the mod buggies, he could clear one of the triples when I had to double single but even on the straight I could carry more entry speed so he only would pull ahead a slight amount on the straight before I was right on him. I could hang with him on the infield without issue, for a little bit I thought that maybe he was running a 17.5 but remembering he could easily clear the triple knew he wasn't. He commented afterward on how fast my buggy was running.
At this point I will be getting my son one, our indoor track I think will be an astro turf one, so will throw in the laydown at that time.
I used the B6D setup in the manual and it was quite dialed. Had a push and needed a little more on power steering but wow does it have rear traction and flys like a dream. Running weight was 1502g using the standard transmission.
To be fair I had worked on the setup on my B5, I was still struggling with oversteer issues but was really good until it wasn't and then was snap loose. I had similar average lap times between both buggies but had my quickest laps with the B6D. I think more practice and setup tweaks I can get it even that much faster then my B5.
A quick note: Everyone at the track runs rear motor , except my son who runs a B5M and he usually finishes mid-pack.
The B6D felt nimble and planted in essentially box stock forum. During practice I was running right with one of the mod buggies, he could clear one of the triples when I had to double single but even on the straight I could carry more entry speed so he only would pull ahead a slight amount on the straight before I was right on him. I could hang with him on the infield without issue, for a little bit I thought that maybe he was running a 17.5 but remembering he could easily clear the triple knew he wasn't. He commented afterward on how fast my buggy was running.
At this point I will be getting my son one, our indoor track I think will be an astro turf one, so will throw in the laydown at that time.
08-16-2016, 10:06 AM
#2616
LOL. when I run my B5Mlite side by side with the B6... it is just surprising I can go faster in chicanes and tight corners with the B6. I though you can do that with your Xray Carpet edition? Almost bought Jarrod K's Xray but I opted to just fund my B6 for maintenance parts, tools, etc.
08-16-2016, 10:24 AM
#2618
I can. Just want to try something new. Also I have no 3 gear option in the laydown.
LOL. when I run my B5Mlite side by side with the B6... it is just surprising I can go faster in chicanes and tight corners with the B6. I though you can do that with your Xray Carpet edition? Almost bought Jarrod K's Xray but I opted to just fund my B6 for maintenance parts, tools, etc.
08-16-2016, 10:26 AM
#2619
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
I'm normally the last guy to "garbage up" an AE thread with non AE questions..BUT are the Kyosho guys you're talking about running the RZ6 conversion?
08-16-2016, 10:49 AM
#2621
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Thanks, I was just curious.
08-16-2016, 10:50 AM
#2622
Other than my terrible showing at the last big race at Dave's, my B5M has finished top three (mostly firsts) and TQ'd many times over the last season and a half. In fact, my first day out last year, I managed to TQ and take first with the carpet setup from Premier - carpet springs, oil, roll center, etc... Don't be shy about racing the B6D on dirt. If there's any moisture in the track, the MM Associated cars work great. My car really didn't like the switch to 3 gear, not sure how the B6 would handle it. The only reason I've held off on buying the new car is the local track situation. I'll likely be pulling the trigger soon. I'll continue to use the B5M at Dave's, and Albany will be my new winter track.
I will race the B6D on dirt but Stadium Truck is my favorite class so will run it before buggy.
08-16-2016, 12:15 PM
#2624
So this last summer series I ran two cars. My Tekno 410.3 and my Stock Class AE B5M. The B5M was second hand, I bought it from a random, it was pre-built (poorly) and I took several weekends to get it dialed. Shout out to AE driver Will Brinton. When we finally got the buggy to a good sweet spot, I was running faster laps thank my Tekno truck. I've determined that Pro 4 SCT is just not for me, I had an absolute BLAST running my B5M. Now my skill is intermediate. As a matter of fact, my best race is bumping from the lowest main with my B5 to the next race BUT that's due to lack of track time (which is changing.)
So I've decided to sell my truck and eventually my B5, I'm going to upgrade to the B6D and have some fun with it. I'm not planning on running it full factory, I'm going to hit the aftermarket vendors. I don't want to make a shelf queen, I want to play around with parts and make it a fast car from the get go. I get it that running stock is about the car setup, consistency, and being a decent driver, and that takes practice but I'm not against spending some money in the beginning.
So here's my thoughts on items I'm planning on using with my B6D.
Orion VST Lightweight 17.5
Lunsford Titanium Screw Set/Turbuckles/Ball studs
Exotek Titanium front Axles
Exotek Slipper Eliminator
Avid Ceramic Bearings
MIP 17.5 Puck System
That's my list and I'm open to other suggestions. Is it going to cost money? Yes. Is all this weight reduction going to be wasted on my skill level of driving? For now. But this is about fun.
Thanks for your time.
So I've decided to sell my truck and eventually my B5, I'm going to upgrade to the B6D and have some fun with it. I'm not planning on running it full factory, I'm going to hit the aftermarket vendors. I don't want to make a shelf queen, I want to play around with parts and make it a fast car from the get go. I get it that running stock is about the car setup, consistency, and being a decent driver, and that takes practice but I'm not against spending some money in the beginning.
So here's my thoughts on items I'm planning on using with my B6D.
Orion VST Lightweight 17.5
Lunsford Titanium Screw Set/Turbuckles/Ball studs
Exotek Titanium front Axles
Exotek Slipper Eliminator
Avid Ceramic Bearings
MIP 17.5 Puck System
That's my list and I'm open to other suggestions. Is it going to cost money? Yes. Is all this weight reduction going to be wasted on my skill level of driving? For now. But this is about fun.
Thanks for your time.
08-16-2016, 12:26 PM
#2625
If I could add anything, I'd go with a schelle slipper and cut gears.