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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

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B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-01-2016, 01:27 PM   #4546
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I snuck a couple pics of an interesting battery strap at last nights club race on a B6D. Aluminum strap, thin, with easy adjustments compared to stock and some of the other aftermarkets out there. I think this is something VRP in Houston is working on and we'll see on the market soon, but didn't get a chance to talk to the racer at last nights club race since I had to leave early. If I see him at the next race I'll question about it.


This is the one from Exotek. It doesn't have the aluminum strap like the one in your pics. But, it's close in appreance.

http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-batte...-fiber-b6-b6d/
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:12 PM   #4547
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https://www.facebook.com/JBCarbonRC/...SEARCH&fref=nf

looks a bit like this one from my old friend JB
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:18 PM   #4548
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here are some images of what i am talking about its not the top plate it hitting on my mistake
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anyone else have any issues with the exotek servo arm rubbing a litte.

the steering link seems to be rub onto the top plate a little bit

it also has the 2MM washer installed should i remove that?

also when the servo arms turn i seem to get a click noise coming out of the servo its brand new savox 1258tg i hear it mainly when the servo arm is pushed to the far right or far left never when its just moves sightly left or right i hear no noise. im assuming that isn't normal ?
The Savox 4096 sits very far forward compared to other servos so no ball spacer needed.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:24 PM   #4549
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With my Savox 1257-TG, it rubs the top plate a little bit, just grind it down a little --

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Old 12-01-2016, 02:42 PM   #4550
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With my Savox 1257-TG, it rubs the top plate a little bit, just grind it down a little --

sickkkkk!! thank you for the info and the pictures. ima try removing the 2MM spacer and see what that does.

But it rubs just a little bit like how yours looks in the picture. ill just shave off a little bit.
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Old 12-01-2016, 02:53 PM   #4551
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BTW, try to get the steering linkage as straight across as possible with no angle up/down or forward/backward.

Else you get a bunch of mechanical steering expo immediately off-neutral. But it's like reverse expo -- it's extra-sensitive immediately off-neutral and then slows down as you go full lock. Not good at all.
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:02 PM   #4552
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Originally Posted by Stobert2012 View Post
This is the one from Exotek. It doesn't have the aluminum strap like the one in your pics. But, it's close in appreance.

http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-batte...-fiber-b6-b6d/
Anyone running this one yet? I ordered one should be here Saturday. I like the fact that I can sit the battery directly behind the motor and still have the "waterfall"
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:37 PM   #4553
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BTW, try to get the steering linkage as straight across as possible with no angle up/down or forward/backward.

Else you get a bunch of mechanical steering expo immediately off-neutral. But it's like reverse expo -- it's extra-sensitive immediately off-neutral and then slows down as you go full lock. Not good at all.
got it

from the looks of it mine is a bit forward thats why im thinking of removing the 2mm spacer from the servo horn
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:56 PM   #4554
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got it

from the looks of it mine is a bit forward thats why im thinking of removing the 2mm spacer from the servo horn
I would actually remove the spacers behind the servo. This will push the servo bavk
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:40 PM   #4555
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I would actually remove the spacers behind the servo. This will push the servo bavk

I didn't even think of that. Thank you you're a genius haha.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:38 PM   #4556
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The savox servo does not need the spacers behind the servo ears.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:40 PM   #4557
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got it

from the looks of it mine is a bit forward thats why im thinking of removing the 2mm spacer from the servo horn
Let me save you a little headache. Leave the spacer behind the servo ears and just remove the 2mm spacer behind the ballstud. This is the proper way to fit a savox servo in the B6! You will have fitment problems if you don't have at least one spacer behind the ears. The servo screws without the spacer will hit the plastic posts before the holes for the hold down screws line up. Unless you want to source shorter screws.
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:57 PM   #4558
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Let me save you a little headache. Leave the spacer behind the servo ears and just remove the 2mm spacer behind the ballstud. This is the proper way to fit a savox servo in the B6! You will have fitment problems if you don't have at least one spacer behind the ears. The servo screws without the spacer will hit the plastic posts before the holes for the hold down screws line up. Unless you want to source shorter screws.
ahhhhh that makes sense ill just do that. it looked like if i just take the 2mm spacer it should be good. thank you
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:00 PM   #4559
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Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
Let me save you a little headache. Leave the spacer behind the servo ears and just remove the 2mm spacer behind the ballstud. This is the proper way to fit a savox servo in the B6! You will have fitment problems if you don't have at least one spacer behind the ears. The servo screws without the spacer will hit the plastic posts before the holes for the hold down screws line up. Unless you want to source shorter screws.
Yes, definitely get rid of the ballstud spacer. I also removed the servo spacers and went with shorter screws, because the link was still not straight, but just getting rid of the ballstud spacer is good enough.
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:05 AM   #4560
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Let me save you a little headache. Leave the spacer behind the servo ears and just remove the 2mm spacer behind the ballstud.
I am using the Losi servo arm with a Savox with no fitment or rubbing with perfect geometry and the kit setup. Sounds like issues when using the AE Aluminum servo arm.
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