649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
09-05-2016, 03:36 PM
#3048
Which are better for medium high grip, no huge jumps? AE or shelle? Thx
09-05-2016, 04:04 PM
#3049
Its about the pack or the ability to absorb a lot of shock without bottoming out. If you are running on a smooth track without the big jumps I would go with the 2 holers. I don't believe I have ever run Schelle pistons so I can't say whether they are better than the AE's or not.
09-05-2016, 04:35 PM
#3050
Thank you. I've always assumed, like the b5m, everyone was running aftermarket machined Pistons. Does the kit come with machines Pistons or is everyone using aftermarket Pistons? Thx - bought mine used
Its about the pack or the ability to absorb a lot of shock without bottoming out. If you are running on a smooth track without the big jumps I would go with the 2 holers. I don't believe I have ever run Schelle pistons so I can't say whether they are better than the AE's or not.
09-05-2016, 06:22 PM
#3051
The kit pistons are not machined.
09-05-2016, 06:36 PM
#3052
The Facebook guys didn't care for it much let's see what you guys think. With the shocks in front getting the spur off is a challenge plus on my next body I won't need a hole. Lol that and I'm always looking for stuff to try. This cost me exactly nothing. Until I want to run the slipper again of course.
Last edited by DG Designs; 09-05-2016 at 06:47 PM.
09-05-2016, 08:18 PM
#3053
while the kit pistons are not machined, they come off the tree much easier than the 5 series rides. there is next to nothing left to have to cut off after you get them off the tree (a lot of the pistons come off the tree on their own and are loose in the bag, at least mine were).
09-05-2016, 08:21 PM
#3054
The Facebook guys didn't care for it much let's see what you guys think. With the shocks in front getting the spur off is a challenge plus on my next body I won't need a hole. Lol that and I'm always looking for stuff to try. This cost me exactly nothing. Until I want to run the slipper again of course.
09-05-2016, 08:27 PM
#3055
09-05-2016, 08:34 PM
#3057
while the kit pistons are not machined, they come off the tree much easier than the 5 series rides. there is next to nothing left to have to cut off after you get them off the tree (a lot of the pistons come off the tree on their own and are loose in the bag, at least mine were).
I was just comparing the kit tree pistons versus the machined ae. I was surprised how much space there is between the kit piston and the wall of the shock shaft compared to how smooth and perfectly fitted the machined sit against the wall of the shock body. I wonder if fluid bleeds heavily around the edges of the kit pistons? The space was enough to see.
09-05-2016, 08:40 PM
#3058
I was just comparing the kit tree pistons versus the machined ae. I was surprised how much space there is between the kit piston and the wall of the shock shaft compared to how smooth and perfectly fitted the machined sit against the wall of the shock body. I wonder if fluid bleeds heavily around the edges of the kit pistons? The space was enough to see.
09-05-2016, 10:22 PM
#3059
I have the same question as below. Also noticed Kurt wengers newer setups have the 3 hole Pistons in front. Can anyone opine on the rationale behind this? Trying to make piston selection. Thx in advance
Ive never messed with 3 hole pistons. Am i understanding it correct that 2x1.7 will have less high speed compression the 3x1.4. My car feels really good with 27.5 and 2x1.7 other than the chassis slaps a little. Would the 3x1.4 help this but still be fairly soft in the corners?
09-05-2016, 10:49 PM
#3060
i can just say that on a medium grip indoor track, i started with a laydown and 3 holes in the rear. it was god awful. switched to 2x1.7's out back and that made a DRAMATIC difference. maybe on higher bite surfaces the 3 holes are the way to go, but for me, i had very little rear traction with them. becasue the track is small, any positive gain from more pack for bigger jumps was lost because there are no big jumps so the ass end just slid out everywhere.