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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-28-2016, 08:47 AM
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I'm ready for some carpet!

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Old 07-28-2016, 08:58 AM
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you going to run ball or gear diff on carpet?
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you going to run ball or gear diff on carpet?
He only has a ball diff
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
He only has a ball diff
Ball diff. I have her cranked down pretty hard.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:31 AM
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after seeing egalsim's rc10 body ,,, had to do it for myself

my colors,, and it actually got around the track well!! thought it would be more rollie in the corners,,,, good thing of high wing, i caught the pipe and it rolled right back to the wheels, kinda like a 1/12 pogo antenna, LOL




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Old 07-28-2016, 09:40 AM
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For those who have experience, even just racing against experience, how are these comparing to say the Xray xb2 as far as performance and parts quality / wear goes?
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
For those who have experience, even just racing against experience, how are these comparing to say the Xray xb2 as far as performance and parts quality / wear goes?



had xray and now have b6,,, both are great,,,
only difference is xray is like 6 screws to get diff out..
b6 is like 22 screws to get all the way to diff.. (laydown)

performance and durability are very comparable!!!!
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
For those who have experience, even just racing against experience, how are these comparing to say the Xray xb2 as far as performance and parts quality / wear goes?
Parts are literally 1/3 the cost, with what I think matching quality.

The car itself has more corner speed and more bite. I felt like I had the xray pretty good outdoors, but it required in my opinion a lot of work an deviation from OEM parts.

The B6D out of the box worked just as well, and with some tweaks really woke up.

The lack of a 3 gear laydown for high bite is a fail by xray. The lack of a alloy parts as OEM is also a fail.

The timeframe to get parts out for the xray is lacking.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Parts are literally 1/3 the cost, with what I think matching quality.

The car itself has more corner speed and more bite. I felt like I had the xray pretty good outdoors, but it required in my opinion a lot of work an deviation from OEM parts.

The B6D out of the box worked just as well, and with some tweaks really woke up.

The lack of a 3 gear laydown for high bite is a fail by xray. The lack of a alloy parts as OEM is also a fail.

The timeframe to get parts out for the xray is lacking.
Socket have you wheeled a Kyohso RB6? If so could you give your insight on that too. And what you have seen RB6 wise in your Area. thank you
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Parts are literally 1/3 the cost, with what I think matching quality.

The car itself has more corner speed and more bite. I felt like I had the xray pretty good outdoors, but it required in my opinion a lot of work an deviation from OEM parts.

The B6D out of the box worked just as well, and with some tweaks really woke up.

The lack of a 3 gear laydown for high bite is a fail by xray. The lack of a alloy parts as OEM is also a fail.

The timeframe to get parts out for the xray is lacking.
Thanks for the info!

Side question, I see guys running some rims that have recesses for the hexes, using Jconcepts here that don't have that, what type in general seem to be the best that are Associated compatible?
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by slick1
after seeing egalsim's rc10 body ,,, had to do it for myself

my colors,, and it actually got around the track well!! thought it would be more rollie in the corners,,,, good thing of high wing, i caught the pipe and it rolled right back to the wheels, kinda like a 1/12 pogo antenna, LOL




Sweet!!!!
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Socket have you wheeled a Kyohso RB6? If so could you give your insight on that too. And what you have seen RB6 wise in your Area. thank you
The Kyosho about 2 years ago fell off hard here in AZ. They had a few sponsored drivers not do well by them, and no one has had a Kyo deal since. I know a guy who stuck by his for awhile and made it work, but I have not personally driven or owned one.

Doesn't mean I wouldn't buy a RB6.6 tomorrow! With my ADD when it comes to chassis, it wouldn't surprise anyone.

The internet racer in me thinks it looks cool, and I know Kyo quality is top notch. The only thing I worry about the Kyo is parts cost and availability. Of course, this is after I just spent $100 on Kyo springs.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks for the info!

Side question, I see guys running some rims that have recesses for the hexes, using Jconcepts here that don't have that, what type in general seem to be the best that are Associated compatible?
I still really like the way factory AE wheels fit. I usually buy wheels 10 sets at a time, and have stuck with OEM. They hold up great, as I generally acetone my wheels and reuse them. I can get 4-5 uses out of a set of wheels before I toss them.

I'm not a giant fan of JC products because of a few of the drivers they sponsor, but I have a set of their wheels and think they fit fine..the different white is annoying.

Then there's Rawspeed wheels. They're different than anything I've EVER ran, and remind me a TON of the Xray soft wheels. Tons of flex, which I like on outdoors and rough tracks, I think flex is a friend when it comes to chassis outdoors because it'll plant the car more.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks for the info!

Side question, I see guys running some rims that have recesses for the hexes, using Jconcepts here that don't have that, what type in general seem to be the best that are Associated compatible?
For 2.2 I really like the Avid wheels. Light weight and a more flat faced look. For 2.4, I like the AKA wheels. Nice hex engagement on both and durability. The avid wheel is the most durable wheel I have ever owned.
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
For those who have experience, even just racing against experience, how are these comparing to say the Xray xb2 as far as performance and parts quality / wear goes?
I race on carpet mostly and IMO the xb2 was an epic let down. Broke a RR hanger and typical of Xray they refused to acknowledge it was an issue until a ton of people where breaking them. The deal breaker for me was the lack of a 3 gear laydown and no gullwing arms. The car never had a lot of on power steering. Getting to the diff with only 6 screws was nice but not good enough of a reason to continue racing the car.
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