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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-28-2016, 04:00 PM   #3466
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I want to get a car for dirt and commercial carpet. considering getting a 6d then converting to b6. What is needed ? 2 cars is not a option. I figured arms and towers and diff housing and parts.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:12 PM   #3467
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It's front arms, front tower, motor plate, gearbox, idler gear, and chassis brace. And differential of course.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:26 PM   #3468
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Front arms and tower are not mandatory, the real difference is ball diff and standup tranny
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:40 AM   #3469
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I have a General tranny question.3gear trans, I plan on racing both 17.5t class and mod class, probably a 7.5t for example purposes. If i leave the 69 spur for the 17.5 setting per manual gear chart, can i just use a lower pinion for the 7.5 and if so, is there a difference is how the car will feel with the smaller pinion & spur for the mod?? formula i used was tranny 2.60x69(spur) divided by pinion(18) i came up with 9.96 any insight would be greatly appreciated..
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:51 AM   #3470
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I have always used spur/pinion * 2.6.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:55 AM   #3471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I have a General tranny question.3gear trans, I plan on racing both 17.5t class and mod class, probably a 7.5t for example purposes. If i leave the 69 spur for the 17.5 setting per manual gear chart, can i just use a lower pinion for the 7.5 and if so, is there a difference is how the car will feel with the smaller pinion & spur for the mod?? formula i used was tranny 2.60x69(spur) divided by pinion(18) i came up with 9.96 any insight would be greatly appreciated..
I'm not sure you'll get a small enough pinion to fit/work for a 7.5/8.5 motor running a 69t spur gear.

Normal 7.5 gearing (for me) is ROUGHLY..81/20 = 4.05

To get that same ratio with a 69t spur you would have to run a 17t pinion..

69/17 = 4.058
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:58 AM   #3472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
I have always used spur/pinion * 2.6.
Only time I take the time to factor in the tranny ratio is if I'm talking to an "outsider"...you know, those TLR and Kyosho guys.

*cough cough, Kraig *
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:59 AM   #3473
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the book says 21/78 for 7.5t = 9.65, so if im running 18/69 & get 9.96 its just a hair higher
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:01 AM   #3474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I'm not sure you'll get a small enough pinion to fit/work for a 7.5/8.5 motor running a 69t spur gear.

Normal 7.5 gearing (for me) is ROUGHLY..81/20 = 4.05

To get that same ratio with a 69t spur you would have to run a 17t pinion..

69/17 = 4.058
I get it, you mean actually fit due to motor clearance and small pinion.. Got cha..
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:05 AM   #3475
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
the book says 21/78 for 7.5t = 9.65, so if im running 18/69 & get 9.96 its just a hair higher
My point was, and the real question is, while that combination physically fit? I'm not sure you can get the motor close enough. All you can do is try it and see.

If it fits, run it. If you're mortal like the rest of us, you'll never feel the difference between 78/21 and 69/18 on the track.

But it will move the motor farther back and maybe you'll notice that in terms of handling.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:08 AM   #3476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Only time I take the time to factor in the tranny ratio is if I'm talking to an "outsider"...you know, those TLR and Kyosho guys.

*cough cough, Kraig *
Kyosho 2wd cars have the same internal ratio but I do appreciate making it easier for me.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:22 AM   #3477
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Sometimes the motor wont slide far enough to get the proper gear mesh with the 69 spur and the smaller pinion.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:33 AM   #3478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Shock towers breaking: to reiterate, near razor sharp edges cut carpet, dig into dirt and clay and will snap when your buggy comes to a dead stop. I have a horizontal crack in my tower from just such a crash.

Solution: Mildly take down the sharp edges with emery cloth, cover with a Lexan shock tower cover or shock tower protectors, use wide washers and/or countersunk washers for strain relief on the shock mounting hole. You can seal with CA if you like, but not needed once the edges are smooth.
I agree. Sealing the edges on todays CF is basically cosmetic..But for the love of God people that crap is sharp! I sand ALL the edges on all of my CF parts, not just the outside edges. I do all the internal holes/cutouts. I just makes handling the car easier, you don't feel like you're picking up a knife by the blade...so to speak
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:20 AM   #3479
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I got it now everyone, Thanks, I totally didnt even consider if it would fit... Guess i will try it & see..
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:18 AM   #3480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I agree. Sealing the edges on todays CF is basically cosmetic..But for the love of God people that crap is sharp! I sand ALL the edges on all of my CF parts, not just the outside edges. I do all the internal holes/cutouts. I just makes handling the car easier, you don't feel like you're picking up a knife by the blade...so to speak
I agree, regardless if it does anything or not; I do think it looks better when you glue and sand the edges. Of course it's all about looks right
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