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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-06-2016, 01:44 PM
  #4216  
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Originally Posted by josh short
Any one running angled ball cups like b5m? They come in newer packs of ball cups
They're in the package so others can upgrade with the newer cups on the B5/T5/SC5
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:04 PM
  #4217  
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Originally Posted by Renracer
I see a lot of the team drivers start running the Gull Wing Arms on there B6D what is the adavantage or Disadvantage to these arms over the fault Arms on med to high bite indoor clay tracks
I have recently switched to gullwing as well. Seems to smooth out the steering as well as give the car a bit more on power steering. I'd recommend trying gullwing on any type of med-high bite surface.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:32 PM
  #4218  
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Originally Posted by josh short
Twisted check this link out I think Itll help
http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
perfect Josh!!

Jeff Check
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:46 PM
  #4219  
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Originally Posted by twistedneck
I am using Yokomo Green front and rear springs on my B6D for indoor clay track.. they are super plush but I don't know how they compare to the factory Associated B6D setup. Does anyone know what the Yokomo numbers mean? How they compare to Associated rates?

My current setup:
yokomo front green - 775
yokomo rear green - 1200

B6D factory setup:
associated white front - 3.3 lbs/in
associated green rear - 2.0 lbs /in
This chart was done using a GForce spring tester, the numbers may not be 100% but the comparison is
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-12033574_1058557384154939_1160893788_n.jpg  
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:31 PM
  #4220  
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Originally Posted by "Smiley"
I have recently switched to gullwing as well. Seems to smooth out the steering as well as give the car a bit more on power steering. I'd recommend trying gullwing on any type of med-high bite surface.
I haven't seen these setups, are you guys changing towers and arms or doing a mix of B6D tower with B6 arms??
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:41 AM
  #4221  
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
I haven't seen these setups, are you guys changing towers and arms or doing a mix of B6D tower with B6 arms??
Wide tower corresponds to the gull arms and narrow tower to the flat arms.
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:53 AM
  #4222  
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi
I haven't seen these setups, are you guys changing towers and arms or doing a mix of B6D tower with B6 arms??
For gullwing, you have to use the gullwing tower and arms together. A good base setup for gullwing is Cole Tollards setup under the B6 setups on the AE site.
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:28 AM
  #4223  
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Guys are also putting a 1mm spacer between the bulkhead and the chassis to further enhance the gullwing (lower?) roll center setup on dirt. This is what majority of people were doing at the Associated race.
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:53 AM
  #4224  
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Originally Posted by TAMAK
Guys are also putting a 1mm spacer between the bulkhead and the chassis to further enhance the gullwing (lower?) roll center setup on dirt. This is what majority of people were doing at the Associated race.
Are you saying they were running both the spacers to lower the bulkhead and the gull wing setup?
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:59 AM
  #4225  
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Man guys, I gotta say, my b6d with long shocks and KIT setup is just super amazing. You may or may not know but I'm the "setup guy" that just always changes stuff and posts setups up, but honestly, I have no asks from this car other than to keep being amazing. First week out, car was a little "tame" for my tastes, but I came back out with some re-foamed fronts and it was amazing. Was able to win one A main and get a 2nd this week with it against some pretty stout competition.

I was a huge "boooo associated" for releasing the b6 so soon after the b5m, but this car is a total about face for AE. Kit setup was money. Fit and finish was on. Nothing wrong with the kit. Literally trimmed the body 1 hour prior to the first race and got one practice run and was competitive.

I honestly can't say enough good things about it. Can't wait for the next 4wheel.

Wayne
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Old 11-07-2016, 12:17 PM
  #4226  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Man guys, I gotta say, my b6d with long shocks and KIT setup is just super amazing. You may or may not know but I'm the "setup guy" that just always changes stuff and posts setups up, but honestly, I have no asks from this car other than to keep being amazing. First week out, car was a little "tame" for my tastes, but I came back out with some re-foamed fronts and it was amazing. Was able to win one A main and get a 2nd this week with it against some pretty stout competition.

I was a huge "boooo associated" for releasing the b6 so soon after the b5m, but this car is a total about face for AE. Kit setup was money. Fit and finish was on. Nothing wrong with the kit. Literally trimmed the body 1 hour prior to the first race and got one practice run and was competitive.

I honestly can't say enough good things about it. Can't wait for the next 4wheel.

Wayne
Yeah, the car is really really good. I still have a B5m, but this car is so much better in many many ways.
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Old 11-07-2016, 12:36 PM
  #4227  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
Man guys, I gotta say, my b6d with long shocks and KIT setup is just super amazing. You may or may not know but I'm the "setup guy" that just always changes stuff and posts setups up, but honestly, I have no asks from this car other than to keep being amazing. First week out, car was a little "tame" for my tastes, but I came back out with some re-foamed fronts and it was amazing. Was able to win one A main and get a 2nd this week with it against some pretty stout competition.

I was a huge "boooo associated" for releasing the b6 so soon after the b5m, but this car is a total about face for AE. Kit setup was money. Fit and finish was on. Nothing wrong with the kit. Literally trimmed the body 1 hour prior to the first race and got one practice run and was competitive.

I honestly can't say enough good things about it. Can't wait for the next 4wheel.

Wayne
What is the track surface you run on? Just curious. I should have mine built and maybe racing by this Wednesday.
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Old 11-07-2016, 12:44 PM
  #4228  
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+1 curious as well.

For those with the long rear tower and use it on carpet, anything you recommend for changes due to the tower?
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Eli
Are you saying they were running both the spacers to lower the bulkhead and the gull wing setup?
On all conditions, if the grip is super low and you need to tune some oversteer out of the car you can go to .5mm shims.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:01 PM
  #4230  
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Originally Posted by Eli
What is the track surface you run on? Just curious. I should have mine built and maybe racing by this Wednesday.
Originally Posted by Cain
+1 curious as well.

For those with the long rear tower and use it on carpet, anything you recommend for changes due to the tower?
I'm on a moist packed black topsoil track that acts very similar to clay in terms of traction. I would say it's less traction than a high bite clay for sure, but we've been running m4 or clay slicks on it or scrubbed in electrons / or microns etc. Here's a video of me driving my 17.5 RC10 worlds car rerelease on it a couple of weeks back. B6 is for mod, which is good, because the worlds car would wheelie itself into oblivion with much more than a 17.5—it's a trip to drive with a ton of grip.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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