649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-07-2016, 01:04 PM
#3617
Super Moderator
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B5,B5M, & B4.2 manual says which side to put it on. I am pretty sure they were designed to be places on a specific side, too bad there's no AE design team support on here. I am sure every other AE manual I have seen also says which side it should be on. But neither here nor there... I haven't decided to go rogue and test out what would happen if I was a rebel and put it on the other side...
B4 manual says screw head on the spur gear side.
b4.1/t4.1 manuals don't say which side to put the head of the diff screw.
SC10FT manual doesn't say which side...
SC10.2 manual says spur gear side...
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
10-07-2016, 01:08 PM
#3618
Anyone got recent opinion on the sway bars? Looking at a variety of setups for carpet, i don't really see them being used. I was thinking of picking them up right away but at $32 for a full set I was curious how much people are getting out of them.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet.
Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet.
Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup.
10-07-2016, 01:11 PM
#3619
Super Moderator
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Posts: 15,482
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I'm not an engineer, and never claimed to be, but when looking at how a ball diff functions...I can't see how it would matter which way you put it in
10-07-2016, 01:27 PM
#3620
.I can't see how it would matter which way you put it in
and loosening the screw, on the left requires me to use my left hand or turn the
car around(schumacher diffs go in both ways depending on the belt offset),
never seen them come loose from being on the left. If you a southpaw put it on
the left.
10-07-2016, 01:48 PM
#3621
Tech Regular
10-07-2016, 01:50 PM
#3622
Tech Regular
Associated B6 or Kyosho RB6 for carpet/Astro please?
10-07-2016, 05:24 PM
#3624
I have an xb2 CE, b6, and rb6.6 laydown.
For high bite clay, rb6.6 all the way although needs a diet . Love all 3 cars for different reasons though ...B6 is the most stable and planted, and soaks ups the bumps and large jumps. Like it best for bigger tracks. Easiest of the 3 to drive. I have the most consistent lap times at my level with the b6
Can't answer the astro question but the higher the bite the more I appreciate the rb6.6 as its the most aggressive.
For high bite clay, rb6.6 all the way although needs a diet . Love all 3 cars for different reasons though ...B6 is the most stable and planted, and soaks ups the bumps and large jumps. Like it best for bigger tracks. Easiest of the 3 to drive. I have the most consistent lap times at my level with the b6
Can't answer the astro question but the higher the bite the more I appreciate the rb6.6 as its the most aggressive.
Last edited by JAE; 10-07-2016 at 06:35 PM.
10-07-2016, 08:30 PM
#3626
typically taper up for rough track and down for smooth
10-07-2016, 11:08 PM
#3627
10-08-2016, 12:48 AM
#3628
Tech Regular
Anyone got recent opinion on the sway bars? Looking at a variety of setups for carpet, i don't really see them being used. I was thinking of picking them up right away but at $32 for a full set I was curious how much people are getting out of them.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet.
Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup.
Outside of that, for conditions where you have a very small tight track with some 180s, would you run the gullwing b6 style front arms or the b6d flat arms, assume high traction carpet.
Reason I ask is I was told by someone that the b6 style arms while being stated for more on power steering were for more flowing type surface. So I wanted to confirm as I have both types here but it may affect my decision on what tower setup for the front to go with and hence, which arm type I may stick more with. Rears I think I'll just go with the long tower setup.
10-08-2016, 02:01 AM
#3629
Tech Regular
Speaking of eos... does anyone have rivkins setup for eos? I know cavalieri's has been posted
10-08-2016, 05:42 AM
#3630
Rivkins setup look to be the same.
The last eos didn't look like bars were used.
I supply Jasper Rasmussen with graphics, he said the trend is to take some weight off the front end (stock bulkhead, or aluminum) and longer shock stroke, along with 15-16 mm ride height.
It works like a champ on smooth high bite carpet, that's with no roll bars
The last eos didn't look like bars were used.
I supply Jasper Rasmussen with graphics, he said the trend is to take some weight off the front end (stock bulkhead, or aluminum) and longer shock stroke, along with 15-16 mm ride height.
It works like a champ on smooth high bite carpet, that's with no roll bars