Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Ok just for the record i didn't break my truck physically, just my esc went out for some weird reason and i got rid of my flysky for a futaba 4pl. (flysky caused me 2 runaways in one race). I decided to get another mamba max pro esc because i have always had good luck with castle stuff. (i know all the jokes about their stuff catching on fire). Figured the mmp is $107 and the hobbywing sct-pro is $87, why not get somethjng i can adjust better.(never could get my hobbywing to program from my computer). Already had the castle link software and programming card. Oh just cause i didn't use enough parenthesis, here (you go).

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

so you did go with the 4pl...i saw you talking about goin to that on the FS and Spek Glitching issue thread. Too bad on the esc as ive had great luck with my HW gear but did you have the LCD programming card as ive never hooked mine up to the puter as there is no software update yet for the SCT Pro and the LCD card has worked great so why change whats not broken?! But hopefully you get it all straightened out and let me kno what you think of the 4pl as maybe one day i will upgrade again

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Really impressed with the futaba 4pl. Has a ton more features than i will ever use and is really comfortable. My servos were noticeably a lot faster after making the switch. At first i thought i had just gotten a bad $250 radio but after ruling that and everything else out, i knew it was the esc. Just kind of hard to go back to an esc that has only features i can use through my lcd card. Never could get the software to hook up right and work with the lcd programming card. I just know with castle stuff i can reach all those features that i need, even if it means occasionally bringing a laptop with me to the track. (got the field programmer so i really don't have to). Not to sure about hobbywing customer support,but i know for a fact castle customer support is awesome.

RossNZ

Our large outdoor track is smooth to bumpy, high grip when damp and as it drys it gets dusty and loose, I could get the SC10 good at times, but the Losi is great all the time, the harder you push it the better it responds, I give it heaps and it comes looking for more. I now just laugh reading the SC10 forum, most post's are trying to "fix" the truck, it needs a center oil filled diff and better balance of front to rear weight, end of story.

Mate if your fast with the truck you have, you will have a huge smile when you see how fast you can drive this truck.

RossNZ

I was looking at the alloy front bearing mount for your center diff, the one with two bearings, looks really nice, but it would cost me a lot by the time it's on my door step. Took a look at the stock plastic mount, milled out the hole that holds the bearing, pushed a second bearing all the way forward, replaced the stock one, done, center diff wobble gone. Should be strong enough, will post results.

Now working out the rear one, I have a plan

RossNZ

I had the same when I first drove mine, within three laps I held some gas while jumping, truck flies great, just learn how it needs to be driven.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

That's a bit overkill just to adjust the jumping style of the truck. There are other setup changes you can use to adjust. Run less drag brake, less anti-squat, heavier rear shock fluid, etc.

What's wrong with a heavy front? I found this truck 1000 times easier to drive than the 2wd trucks. If you look at the pro drivers, their cars tend to nose dive a little.

nanoverse

A diff shouldn't leak without the diy stuff. So if the new part is related to the diffs it'll be leakless out of the factory I would imagine.

krits

iTrader: (8)

Chris, have ya tested a reverse version of your tray? (battary back , ESC front)
If you did so, what are your conclusions?

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Here's hoping. Actually - here's hoping its a running change to the roller or a full kit is offered. I don feel like spending $100 for bits and pieces. My trucks starting to feel a little worn out - I'd like to just buy a new one or a kit with all the fancy bits.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Yes, that's how my prototype was set up. It doesn't make that much of a difference in the weight dist, but the motor wires are longer and run over the center diff.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Yeah I tried the same approach but went to stock form ont the ape. I wanted to shoe goo my esc behind the motor but did not think that the esc would like that much vibration.

Chris Gierse

iTrader: (165)

Just got a set of Avid bearings for my truck. Does the rubber side of the bearing go in or out? Thanks.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You want the rubber to face the dirty side to keep the dirt out of the bearing. the metal side has less resistance so you get a little of "best of both worlds" with those bearings.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You want the rubber to face the dirty side to keep the dirt out of the bearing. the metal side has less resistance so you get a little of "best of both worlds" with those bearings.