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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-02-2012, 05:20 PM
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A broken scte?? C'Mon MAN !!!!!
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
A broken scte?? C'Mon MAN !!!!!
Who broked? LMAO
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:30 PM
  #39768  
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The dingo china doll owners, need new a arms n hinge pins, asking around for broken driver bits n stuff lmfsao!! Running two 2s to run awAy cause their scared to hang n bang !! Bwahahaha
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Really scottie? I guess i'll see you this weekend with my new esc and radio.
P.s. Your a cheater for using 8ight shocks.
Hahaha a you still have to drive the truck
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:48 PM
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Ok just for the record i didn't break my truck physically, just my esc went out for some weird reason and i got rid of my flysky for a futaba 4pl. (flysky caused me 2 runaways in one race). I decided to get another mamba max pro esc because i have always had good luck with castle stuff. (i know all the jokes about their stuff catching on fire). Figured the mmp is $107 and the hobbywing sct-pro is $87, why not get somethjng i can adjust better.(never could get my hobbywing to program from my computer). Already had the castle link software and programming card. Oh just cause i didn't use enough parenthesis, here (you go).
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21 View Post
Ok just for the record i didn't break my truck physically, just my esc went out for some weird reason and i got rid of my flysky for a futaba 4pl. (flysky caused me 2 runaways in one race). I decided to get another mamba max pro esc because i have always had good luck with castle stuff. (i know all the jokes about their stuff catching on fire). Figured the mmp is $107 and the hobbywing sct-pro is $87, why not get somethjng i can adjust better.(never could get my hobbywing to program from my computer). Already had the castle link software and programming card. Oh just cause i didn't use enough parenthesis, here (you go).
so you did go with the 4pl...i saw you talking about goin to that on the FS and Spek Glitching issue thread. Too bad on the esc as ive had great luck with my HW gear but did you have the LCD programming card as ive never hooked mine up to the puter as there is no software update yet for the SCT Pro and the LCD card has worked great so why change whats not broken?! But hopefully you get it all straightened out and let me kno what you think of the 4pl as maybe one day i will upgrade again
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:35 PM
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Really impressed with the futaba 4pl. Has a ton more features than i will ever use and is really comfortable. My servos were noticeably a lot faster after making the switch. At first i thought i had just gotten a bad $250 radio but after ruling that and everything else out, i knew it was the esc. Just kind of hard to go back to an esc that has only features i can use through my lcd card. Never could get the software to hook up right and work with the lcd programming card. I just know with castle stuff i can reach all those features that i need, even if it means occasionally bringing a laptop with me to the track. (got the field programmer so i really don't have to). Not to sure about hobbywing customer support,but i know for a fact castle customer support is awesome.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Ross
What is your track conditions?

I remember you usto visit the sc10 thread and you did some cool mods.
Our large outdoor track is smooth to bumpy, high grip when damp and as it drys it gets dusty and loose, I could get the SC10 good at times, but the Losi is great all the time, the harder you push it the better it responds, I give it heaps and it comes looking for more. I now just laugh reading the SC10 forum, most post's are trying to "fix" the truck, it needs a center oil filled diff and better balance of front to rear weight, end of story.

Mate if your fast with the truck you have, you will have a huge smile when you see how fast you can drive this truck.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:53 PM
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I was looking at the alloy front bearing mount for your center diff, the one with two bearings, looks really nice, but it would cost me a lot by the time it's on my door step. Took a look at the stock plastic mount, milled out the hole that holds the bearing, pushed a second bearing all the way forward, replaced the stock one, done, center diff wobble gone. Should be strong enough, will post results.

Now working out the rear one, I have a plan
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mxgregg View Post
Just got my SCTE and am use to driving a 2WD. The front end seems so heavy when jumping. Is there something in my setup i can change or is this just how they jump? The MIP kit seems like to would really help this trait?
I had the same when I first drove mine, within three laps I held some gas while jumping, truck flies great, just learn how it needs to be driven.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mxgregg View Post
Just got my SCTE and am use to driving a 2WD. The front end seems so heavy when jumping. Is there something in my setup i can change or is this just how they jump? The MIP kit seems like to would really help this trait?
That's a bit overkill just to adjust the jumping style of the truck. There are other setup changes you can use to adjust. Run less drag brake, less anti-squat, heavier rear shock fluid, etc.

What's wrong with a heavy front? I found this truck 1000 times easier to drive than the 2wd trucks. If you look at the pro drivers, their cars tend to nose dive a little.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
That's my question - if your not changin the years themselves - especially the square blocks and spacers - why bother redesigning the case itself?
A diff shouldn't leak without the diy stuff. So if the new part is related to the diffs it'll be leakless out of the factory I would imagine.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
It all comes down to driving style. The SCTE definitely has more weight on the front axle than other trucks. Some guys like stock chassis with the battery forward (52/48 weight dist) some guys like the MIP chassis (45/55 weight dist).

With my tray in the rearmost position the truck has a 49/51 weight dist. It tends to make the truck a little easier to drive and jump flatter.
Chris, have ya tested a reverse version of your tray? (battary back , ESC front)
If you did so, what are your conclusions?
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:23 AM
  #39779  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse View Post
A diff shouldn't leak without the diy stuff. So if the new part is related to the diffs it'll be leakless out of the factory I would imagine.
Here's hoping. Actually - here's hoping its a running change to the roller or a full kit is offered. I don feel like spending $100 for bits and pieces. My trucks starting to feel a little worn out - I'd like to just buy a new one or a kit with all the fancy bits.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:10 AM
  #39780  
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Yes, that's how my prototype was set up. It doesn't make that much of a difference in the weight dist, but the motor wires are longer and run over the center diff.

Originally Posted by krits View Post
Chris, have ya tested a reverse version of your tray? (battary back , ESC front)
If you did so, what are your conclusions?
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