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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-27-2012, 08:17 AM
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So whatever happened to that super secret part that was being tested???
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:18 AM
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Never run it in the wet. The track gets watered down but I've never even driven it shortly after, it's always been dusty. The only thing I can think is I use Simple Green to spray it down and then an air hose to blow that off. Perhaps some is being left on there and causing the corrosion?

That wouldn't explain why the pinion inside the diff case is off though. Especially as you said, it should be covered in grease and when I opened the housing it was.

Truck is about 9 months old but it's only been used mostly fairly recently in the past 3 months.

I often do a tear down of the vehicle once every 2 runs at least.

Any idea on the diffs? Do they just need a break in perhaps to re-seat and run them in? The rear diff was ok, a little notchy but the center one seems very notchy, I could back off the screws in the diff cup and that frees it up but then I'm afraid the diff oil will leak...
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:20 AM
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Default In Regards to New Stuff...

Heya All, I just wanted to make a few points in regards to new stuff and things we are working on since its been a bit of a topic lately. First, we are always looking for good ideas so we will always listen to them. Second, we would love to be able to "spill the beans" all the time to keep the excitement out there, but we cant as that just leads to copies. We are the blimp and it takes us a bit longer than some of the much smaller companies that can manuever like fighter jets, so secrecy is important. I often get in a bit of hot water for as much info as I put out there. I am working on improving this as I'd sure like to stick around so I can keep attempting to make good products. That being said, you guys alawys are the first to know when new things come out.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
So whatever happened to that super secret part that was being tested???
In regards to whatever it is...it is freaking awesome! Not sure what, but I know it will be.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
In regards to whatever it is...it is freaking awesome! Not sure what, but I know it will be.
Sweet! I can't wait for it!!!

And thanks always to the TLR guys who sift through the crap out here and help those in need and keep us all on point.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
There is always some "bypass" designed into any RC shock setup. This is the gap or area around the piston and between that and the shock body. The hard anodized shocks hold up much much better than the stock shock bodies. You should expect some bypass still even in brand new shocks.
Thanks Ryan

I do know there has to be bypass play but I'm wondering if I have too much. I have so much that I think thats why The anodizing is coming off, I think its binding as it starts through travel. I think I should just buy new bodys. Alum in oil is not good thing. I just didn't know how much the coating takes up thats all. Just trying too keep the girl tight
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:18 AM
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Anodizing usually only adds .001" or less to a part.

Originally Posted by THE DOC


Thanks Ryan

I do know there has to be bypass play but I'm wondering if I have too much. I have so much that I think thats why The anodizing is coming off, I think its binding as it starts through travel. I think I should just buy new bodys. Alum in oil is not good thing. I just didn't know how much the coating takes up thats all. Just trying too keep the girl tight
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Anodizing usually only adds .001" or less to a part.
Thanks Chris.. I didn't think it was much.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Heya All, I just wanted to make a few points in regards to new stuff and things we are working on since its been a bit of a topic lately. First, we are always looking for good ideas so we will always listen to them. Second, we would love to be able to "spill the beans" all the time to keep the excitement out there, but we cant as that just leads to copies. We are the blimp and it takes us a bit longer than some of the much smaller companies that can manuever like fighter jets, so secrecy is important. I often get in a bit of hot water for as much info as I put out there. I am working on improving this as I'd sure like to stick around so I can keep attempting to make good products. That being said, you guys alawys are the first to know when new things come out.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC


Thanks Ryan

I do know there has to be bypass play but I'm wondering if I have too much. I have so much that I think thats why The anodizing is coming off, I think its binding as it starts through travel. I think I should just buy new bodys. Alum in oil is not good thing. I just didn't know how much the coating takes up thats all. Just trying too keep the girl tight
If you are using the stock blue bodies, that anodizing is just standard, it can come off pretty easily.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Never run it in the wet. The track gets watered down but I've never even driven it shortly after, it's always been dusty. The only thing I can think is I use Simple Green to spray it down and then an air hose to blow that off. Perhaps some is being left on there and causing the corrosion?

That wouldn't explain why the pinion inside the diff case is off though. Especially as you said, it should be covered in grease and when I opened the housing it was.

Truck is about 9 months old but it's only been used mostly fairly recently in the past 3 months.

I often do a tear down of the vehicle once every 2 runs at least.

Any idea on the diffs? Do they just need a break in perhaps to re-seat and run them in? The rear diff was ok, a little notchy but the center one seems very notchy, I could back off the screws in the diff cup and that frees it up but then I'm afraid the diff oil will leak...
Your truck may be pre the diff gear update? Might want to get a new set of diff gears for the center. I don't remember when the new gears kicked in but they are awesome. The old ones work just fine but may be a little more notchy then the new ones. Depends on tolerances and such. Diff Gears should break in the first few runs so may want to go with new in that center diff. What oil do you normall run?

My rear gears sometimes have small signs of what could be corrosion on them but they are usually pretty clean. I rebuild my diffs maybe ever month or so and regrease everything in there. I would not be too overly concerned about that issue.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:06 AM
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So I've been noticing a weird problem with my SCTE....I raced at Hot Rods the other night and when I had my Nano-tech 5300 35c battery the truck was flying and would overclear the triple but in the main when I threw my 6600 nano-tech 65c in it was like a whole different truck....not nearly as much grunt or get up and go and struggled to clear the triple. Both batteries were fully charged and I've noticed this pattern everytime I drive it so I almost always drive with the 5300 now....I have an Toro ESC and SCT411 4600kv
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Bob
So I've been noticing a weird problem with my SCTE....I raced at Hot Rods the other night and when I had my Nano-tech 5300 35c battery the truck was flying and would overclear the triple but in the main when I threw my 6600 nano-tech 65c in it was like a whole different truck....not nearly as much grunt or get up and go and struggled to clear the triple. Both batteries were fully charged and I've noticed this pattern everytime I drive it so I almost always drive with the 5300 now....I have an Toro ESC and SCT411 4600kv
The 6600 is most likey heavier but it could also be tired or have a micro short or something else and not putting out the power.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:25 AM
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Some batteries just have more grunt to them. Buy good batteries and they're much more consistant.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by THE DOC


Thanks Ryan

I do know there has to be bypass play but I'm wondering if I have too much. I have so much that I think thats why The anodizing is coming off, I think its binding as it starts through travel. I think I should just buy new bodys. Alum in oil is not good thing. I just didn't know how much the coating takes up thats all. Just trying too keep the girl tight
You might check the lower shock ball and upper shock plastic and make sure it isn't over tightened and moving free, those both will side load the shock and put more pressure on the one side of the piston. Also check for front to rear shock alignment to eliminate the side loading
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