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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-03-2012, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Yeah I tried the same approach but went to stock form ont the ape. I wanted to shoe goo my esc behind the motor but did not think that the esc would like that much vibration.
Shoe goo dries pretty hard. Try just normal servo tape. I used some to fill in chassis cutouts and then just install in normal. The foam in the tape helps with vibrations.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RossNZ
I was looking at the alloy front bearing mount for your center diff, the one with two bearings, looks really nice, but it would cost me a lot by the time it's on my door step. Took a look at the stock plastic mount, milled out the hole that holds the bearing, pushed a second bearing all the way forward, replaced the stock one, done, center diff wobble gone. Should be strong enough, will post results.

Now working out the rear one, I have a plan

I would Hope you added a Shim before Stacking 2 bearing's on top of each other.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:00 PM
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i just bought the losb2222 swaybar kit can someone tell me what there rating is for front and rear.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Shoe goo dries pretty hard. Try just normal servo tape. I used some to fill in chassis cutouts and then just install in normal. The foam in the tape helps with vibrations.
Yeah ill try it. I will have to wipe the chassis clean for the tape to stick.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ww29
i just bought the losb2222 swaybar kit can someone tell me what there rating is for front and rear.
I believe the front and rear are the same.

1.6, 1.8, 2.0mm
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Integra
I would Hope you added a Shim before Stacking 2 bearing's on top of each other.
Well there not stacked on top of each other, but yes there's a 4mm alloy spacer between the two, works great so far.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:46 PM
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Casper, since youre a local driver and are familiar with OC and WC race tracks, which springs would you recommend? I dont have many but can get some more obviously. I currently have gold, and new TLR springs in Green, Red and Orange.

Also is it ok to use my Strc short chasi brace in the rear or would you recommend the longer one? I still have the plastic one as well.

Thank you in advance
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mysupratoy94
Casper, since youre a local driver and are familiar with OC and WC race tracks, which springs would you recommend? I dont have many but can get some more obviously. I currently have gold, and new TLR springs in Green, Red and Orange.

Also is it ok to use my Strc short chasi brace in the rear or would you recommend the longer one? I still have the plastic one as well.

Thank you in advance
I almost always run orange in the rear.

Fronts I will switch between blue and black depending on the diff setup I am running and the track layout.

If running a milled chassis I would go with a longer rear brace for both of those tracks.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
I almost always run orange in the rear.

Fronts I will switch between blue and black depending on the diff setup I am running and the track layout.

If running a milled chassis I would go with a longer rear brace for both of those tracks.
Thank you Casper. Yes Im running the TLR chassis so ill look into the longer rear brace.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:11 PM
  #39790  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Yeah I tried the same approach but went to stock form ont the ape. I wanted to shoe goo my esc behind the motor but did not think that the esc would like that much vibration.
Originally Posted by Casper
Shoe goo dries pretty hard. Try just normal servo tape. I used some to fill in chassis cutouts and then just install in normal. The foam in the tape helps with vibrations.
Clear silicon RTV adhesive, may take a while to set but might give the protection you wanted as well. Normally I run a layer or two of the grey 3m heavy duty two-way tape myself.. available all over even staples.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pygmy
Cool. I'm running the 13t as well. I was bashing today on my 7000mAh Gens Ace (they're shiny new, 2nd run) and imho I had less run time than I'd expect. I don't know if the batteries might improve a bit over time; I've read about preservatives added to lipo's in the factory (for transportation) that disintegrate over time resulting in better performance, don't know if that's true or hogwash. I'd like to hear about your runtimes, then I can compare when the indoor track here opens again somewhere in the next few weeks.
OK, went to the track tonight but didnt go as expected....got there to a mess and heard a saw running. Needless to say i didnt get to run but we built a new driver stand for the offroad course as the old stand was in the middle of both courses so now we have a stand for both. Started to set the new layout for friday night as the wife texted telling me to get dinner so I didnt get to run and see how the new rubber works along with batt runtimes...Maybe next week

Originally Posted by Landscaper
Thanks let me know when you try them
Well got them mounted to run for tonight but didnt get to but so far all looks good as i didnt see anything stand out but like i said, when i turn the wheels manually and go to full lock it hits the steering turn buckles but if your like me and have steering turned down it shouldnt be an issue but will post up when i know more
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Clear silicon RTV adhesive, may take a while to set but might give the protection you wanted as well. Normally I run a layer or two of the grey 3m heavy duty two-way tape myself.. available all over even staples.
Does it hold fast? Never tried it on RC before . The upsides it will disolve with most any solvent!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Does it hold fast? Never tried it on RC before . The upsides it will disolve with most any solvent!
not a good idea. i've destroyed a few esc cases using electric parts cleaner to remove servo tape. it causes the plastic to get very brittle.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:51 PM
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Well got kind of sick of my losi tonight. Tried sealing the diff inserts with ca glue and made sure to not get any excess where it wasn't supposed to go. Let it dry and began to put the spider gears etc back in like i always have. Everything meshed up right and felt smooth until i started tightening the diff screws. Seems the diff started locking up really badly around 1/2 a turn to snugly tight. The gears were meshed, but seemed too tight and the diff action wasn't smooth. Even did what ya'll said to break it in using a power drill on the outdrives. Felt exactly the same as before and the diff was getting warm from all the friction. I can usually put my diffs back together great and i have done it at least 15 other times before, but this one just doesn't feel right.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:56 PM
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When you put the inserts in, are they flush with the outside of the diff case or are they extended a little bit? They should be extended a little.
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