DARKSIDE MOTORSPORTS - "We Are What's Next"
05-07-2007, 02:02 PM
#616
Getting the Mx2 out for some stock action at our indoor asphalt track this weekend. Can't wait. It's been about 6 weeks since I've ran it. It's been calling my name.
On May 26th I'm going to Jackson, NJ to run some practice with the Mx2 with 19T to prepare for the eXpress On Road Paved Champanships. Can't wait to show them what the Darkside car is made of. 2 weeks after that I will be running the car at the Sedan Challenge in Frederick, Md. I TQ'ed and won last year. Now I'm driving a better car.
On May 26th I'm going to Jackson, NJ to run some practice with the Mx2 with 19T to prepare for the eXpress On Road Paved Champanships. Can't wait to show them what the Darkside car is made of. 2 weeks after that I will be running the car at the Sedan Challenge in Frederick, Md. I TQ'ed and won last year. Now I'm driving a better car.
05-07-2007, 03:25 PM
#617
Good luck with those races. I have one this weekend too...I've been working hard on the car these past 2 weeks trying to fix the handling problem at the rear of the car and have put a ton of fine detail work into adjusting the car and getting it setup. Hopefully it will perform well this weekend as it did in it's first few races. My 94145 servo was having a problem with loose gears so I pulled that out and dropped in a JR3025 which is a little bit slower but smaller and lighter so that will help reduce the front tire loading. It also gave me room to run the servo wires behind the servo on the chassis instead of over the servo. Next I noticed some binding in the rear pod...it wouldn't droop under it's own weight so I tore that all apart. The rear links had a tad of bind in them that I fixed but the problem turned out to be in the shock so I rebuilt it with lighter oil...but the problem still persisted. Further investigation showed it was the rod ends on the shock. I had been using the cotton method to take out the play in the rod ends but on one of them I used too much and it was causing a bind that was effecting the whole pod. The rod ends were replaced and the new ones are tight enough to not need cotton. Lastly I noticed one of my motor wires felt like it was going to break off so I re-wired the ESC. This time I ran the motor wires along the left side trailing link into the lower part of the rear pod where they turned up to solder on to the motor tabs. With the wires this way the rear pod seems to move very freely. I've got a new body mounted and cut on it now...just waiting for painting and she's all set.
05-07-2007, 03:45 PM
#618
Oh...and I rasied the shock mount position on the rear pod to give the shock a bit more angle.
05-07-2007, 06:22 PM
#619
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Good luck with those races. I have one this weekend too...I've been working hard on the car these past 2 weeks trying to fix the handling problem at the rear of the car and have put a ton of fine detail work into adjusting the car and getting it setup. Hopefully it will perform well this weekend as it did in it's first few races. My 94145 servo was having a problem with loose gears so I pulled that out and dropped in a JR3025 which is a little bit slower but smaller and lighter so that will help reduce the front tire loading. It also gave me room to run the servo wires behind the servo on the chassis instead of over the servo. Next I noticed some binding in the rear pod...it wouldn't droop under it's own weight so I tore that all apart. The rear links had a tad of bind in them that I fixed but the problem turned out to be in the shock so I rebuilt it with lighter oil...but the problem still persisted. Further investigation showed it was the rod ends on the shock. I had been using the cotton method to take out the play in the rod ends but on one of them I used too much and it was causing a bind that was effecting the whole pod. The rod ends were replaced and the new ones are tight enough to not need cotton. Lastly I noticed one of my motor wires felt like it was going to break off so I re-wired the ESC. This time I ran the motor wires along the left side trailing link into the lower part of the rear pod where they turned up to solder on to the motor tabs. With the wires this way the rear pod seems to move very freely. I've got a new body mounted and cut on it now...just waiting for painting and she's all set.
-E
05-07-2007, 06:28 PM
#620
That's a good idea...I have some really small o-rings from my darts I could use for that. We use them to lock the shaft on to the barrel.
I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
05-07-2007, 06:58 PM
#621
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
That's a good idea...I have some really small o-rings from my darts I could use for that. We use them to lock the shaft on to the barrel.
I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
I found on mine the link ends are still new enough that they fit snug but free with the adjustment screw still loose so I just tightned down the adjustment screw until it touched plastic for now.
Let us know how you do!!
PS.......Updated set up sheet should be to E in the next two weeks. We talked about having the download from the Darkside site.
05-07-2007, 07:03 PM
#622
Well that all depends on which sized o-rings you use on your darts. There are 3 sizes commonly used. The small ones won't even fit over a 2-56 screw without some pressure and to put on the dart requires a piece which stretches the o-ring over the threads.
05-07-2007, 07:06 PM
#623
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Well that all depends on which sized o-rings you use on your darts. There are 3 sizes commonly used. The small ones won't even fit over a 2-56 screw without some pressure and to put on the dart requires a piece which stretches the o-ring over the threads.
The one's I got from E were tight on the link screws.
05-09-2007, 12:04 PM
#624
ERIC - ygm 
man your 12 scale rocks bro,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
man your 12 scale rocks bro,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
05-09-2007, 12:41 PM
#625
Football spacers
For the the life of me loctite never works so I came up with another plan
I am using 4-40 THIN nuts and thin motor shims to space the links, and football.
Just insert the 4-40 screw into the chassis and place the right thickness of shim then the thin nut onto the screw. Tighten down and Viola... Just figner thead the 1/4" ball tight and snap on the link.
For the Football 1/4" ball, I am usinging the free running type not the 4-40 tapped ball. The Football hold down holes were dethreaded to allow it to slide onto the chassis screws that were made inmoveable by the thin nuts. Place football onto chassis screws and pod screw. Use a locking small 4-40 nut ontop of all three chassis screws that go through football.
For my Links I am using DurBro 4-40 Captured links, very similar to the kit's links except for the hex shaft which is great for using a wrench to hold the link still while threading in the turnbuckles. the links also come with some nice (thick) brass piviot spacers and some nice freerunning brass 1/4" balls.
I am using 4-40 THIN nuts and thin motor shims to space the links, and football.
Just insert the 4-40 screw into the chassis and place the right thickness of shim then the thin nut onto the screw. Tighten down and Viola... Just figner thead the 1/4" ball tight and snap on the link.
For the Football 1/4" ball, I am usinging the free running type not the 4-40 tapped ball. The Football hold down holes were dethreaded to allow it to slide onto the chassis screws that were made inmoveable by the thin nuts. Place football onto chassis screws and pod screw. Use a locking small 4-40 nut ontop of all three chassis screws that go through football.
For my Links I am using DurBro 4-40 Captured links, very similar to the kit's links except for the hex shaft which is great for using a wrench to hold the link still while threading in the turnbuckles. the links also come with some nice (thick) brass piviot spacers and some nice freerunning brass 1/4" balls.
05-09-2007, 02:54 PM
#626
That's very like how the CRC car mounts it's football...it uses thin 4-40 nuts like you describe on the links. I'd prefer sticking with the stock steel ball though for ease of maintenance. Brass and aluminum balls pit out fairly quickly in certain conditions and need a lot of maintenance to keep running smoothly. I was constantly having to repolish the pivot balls on my EV10 back in the day. the new steel ones that Darkside and CRC are using are so much smoother and maintenance free...it's a big relief.
05-11-2007, 06:39 AM
#627
Had the Mx2 out for the 1st time in about 7 weeks for some practice at our indoor asphalt track warming up for a club race this weekend. I forgot how awesome this car is. The car is "DAILED". It responded to every change I made to it and got better. Can't wait till tomorrow.
05-11-2007, 11:33 AM
#628
Mine will be raced this sunday...I look foward to seeing what the changes I made will do. I really think the binding on the shock ball cups was my handling problem. If so I should stand a good chance this weekend 
05-11-2007, 12:36 PM
#629
Originally Posted by SRW141
Had the Mx2 out for the 1st time in about 7 weeks for some practice at our indoor asphalt track warming up for a club race this weekend. I forgot how awesome this car is. The car is "DAILED". It responded to every change I made to it and got better. Can't wait till tomorrow.
your right this will be the first time i race on asphalt and my practices
were good so i hope it pays off
see you on saterday
05-11-2007, 02:05 PM
#630
Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Mine will be raced this sunday...I look foward to seeing what the changes I made will do. I really think the binding on the shock ball cups was my handling problem. If so I should stand a good chance this weekend