ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

It won't be a rocket ship, but it should be fast enough on a small track. You can put a 20T pinion on it and it should hit ~35mph.

n9netn9ne

iTrader: (3)

haha yeah when we tried it the truck wouldn't make any of the jumps on our track but we were geared at a 14tooth

trailtubes

I hate to say this, but I don't think they tested it a whole lot. They are having massive glitching issues. My buddy and I each bought one, my buddy,s was Jon right out of the box! He has sent his back to Losi twice already, it is glitching so bad that it is completely undrivable! First time they said that they rebuilt the diffs and sent it back, and charged his credit card $80! How is that going to fix glitching??? He sent it back again and he just got it back yesterday and theyre diagnosis is that he's running the wrong battery! Give me a friggin break! We're both running the same batteries! (gens ace 5000 40c) I told him to replace the tx and rx and he said "Losi made it! Losi's fixing it!" this is total B.S.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing Losi, but this service sucks. I love my scte, it glitched a little, but not since I replaced the pos spectrum radio. It's the best rc i have ever owned (and ive owned just about one of everything!) I'm just trying to get some help for my very pissed off buddy. He's about to quit the hobby all together. Says "I shouldn't have sold my slash!"

I've seen Ryan help others on this forum sooo..... RYAN HELP!

omenwolf

iTrader: (37)

I love mine, I run a 20t pinion and jump the timing to 20* and its awsome for an indoor. We have and insane triple with no take off at my local and thats the only thing that i couldnt make with it. The only guys making it are the pro4 4600's and scx4 4.5's.

+ YouTube Video

So A friend gave me a tekin scx4 5.5 to try and I am wondering if anyone is adding boost to these without getting too hot. I have it in my lightened kit with a 15t pinion and I was gunna try 18* of boost to hit at around 3000rpm.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Well 40C is a bit low... I reccommend to anybody that 50C is the MINIMUM I would run since these are battery monsters... I myself run 65C packs, never had a glitch one, but I also run a glitchbuster, a $5 insurance policy!

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

That $35 radio is crap. Get rid of that junk!

n9netn9ne

iTrader: (3)

heres my truck

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Nice paint job!

trailtubes

We are both running glitch busters, savox 1258tg servos and the rest is the stock rtr stuff. Losi also sent him a new speedo and that didn't help. He also bought and tried an external bec. That didnt work either. We are both running the 40c batteries, I even have one 20c 5000 Turnigy, and it'll run my truck with no glitching... Bottom line is, his truck won't work, and it's not the batteries. I think it's the spectrum rx and/or the tx. Is yours the rtr?

Numburn

iTrader: (11)

I swapped out my outdrives in the center diff to the lightened ones and after re-assembling everything correctly it's real tight and there seems to be a spot that catches. I'm sure it's assembled correctly. Did it a few times. I'm curious, would there be a downside to taking out the small shims that sit behind the spider gears? I'd rather do that then double the gasket.

n9netn9ne

iTrader: (3)

believe it or not its actually a wrap

Jason Snyder

iTrader: (4)

A good friend of mine has one of the fastest if not the FASTEST 4x4 sct on the track as far as speed is concerned...its a SCTE with a Boosted tekin 5.5 550 can and a speed passion GT2.0 pro esc.......13t pinion and lots of boost.

He uses some cheap batteries and loves the revtech 28c 6000mah packs the best........

It's JW from Leisure Hours.

n9netn9ne

iTrader: (3)

Long can motors are fine as long as you can keep them from overheating in a losi. I just don't like how they suck your battery down so fast

SEF

iTrader: (39)

These diffs can certainly be a little tight even when built properly. I have a several diffs, and some feel real smooth and some not as smooth. One big cause for a not so smooth diff is if parts aren't seated correctly. In one diff, I CA'd the metal inserts, the ones that the outdrives spin in, to the diff case. The metal insert wasn't seated exactly perfect. Also make sure the aluminum blocks are seated correctly and not worn out. And if you sand the diff case, just sand enough to get the high spot out. If you sand too much, the diff will be tight.

If you are talking about the really tiny shims, then I've removed them in some of my diffs to get a smoother diff. If you are talking about the larger washers, do NOT remove those. Unlike the 8ight diffs, these diffs don't work so well without those larger washers/shims.

But as long as everything is built correctly and seated correctly, the diffs should be functional with all the parts in place. Maybe not the smoothest diff ever, but the spots that catch should be minimal enough where they will smooth out after a few runs.

lowroad

iTrader: (79)

Prett sure you have that turned around. The 4 poles suck more juice than a comparable 550. At least i think so. I run the trinity 550 5.5 and it's cool and strong all day.