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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-27-2012, 10:02 AM
  #28321  
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Originally Posted by trailtubes
I hate to say this, but I don't think they tested it a whole lot. They are having massive glitching issues. My buddy and I each bought one, my buddy,s was Jon right out of the box! He has sent his back to Losi twice already, it is glitching so bad that it is completely undrivable! First time they said that they rebuilt the diffs and sent it back, and charged his credit card $80! How is that going to fix glitching??? He sent it back again and he just got it back yesterday and theyre diagnosis is that he's running the wrong battery! Give me a friggin break! We're both running the same batteries! (gens ace 5000 40c) I told him to replace the tx and rx and he said "Losi made it! Losi's fixing it!" this is total B.S.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing Losi, but this service sucks. I love my scte, it glitched a little, but not since I replaced the pos spectrum radio. It's the best rc i have ever owned (and ive owned just about one of everything!) I'm just trying to get some help for my very pissed off buddy. He's about to quit the hobby all together. Says "I shouldn't have sold my slash!"

I've seen Ryan help others on this forum sooo..... RYAN HELP!
Install a $5 Spektrum or Novak capacitor in the receiver. I had the same issues with a Castle MMP (which is what the RTR ESC is..) and that solved it.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tage-Protector

Not saying it's right or wrong, but $5 seems like a lot less headache than what you're going through.

EDIT - didn't read all the way to the end. sounds like you already tried all this. My condolences.....
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:23 AM
  #28322  
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Did you have glitching problems with the stock servo? Did you even run the truck before you added the Savox? 10:1 says the problem is your problem is the Savox servo. Don't believe me? Put the stock servo back in the truck and drive it.

I've seen hundreds of complaints on these forums about the exact same problem. It's almost always the same combination, Spektrum receiver, Mamba Max Pro and a Savox servo.


Originally Posted by trailtubes
We are both running glitch busters, savox 1258tg servos and the rest is the stock rtr stuff. Losi also sent him a new speedo and that didn't help. He also bought and tried an external bec. That didnt work either. We are both running the 40c batteries, I even have one 20c 5000 Turnigy, and it'll run my truck with no glitching... Bottom line is, his truck won't work, and it's not the batteries. I think it's the spectrum rx and/or the tx. Is yours the rtr?
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:26 AM
  #28323  
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Well, it's well done. I like clean crisp lines like a full size truck not these airbrush jobs we see all the time.

Originally Posted by n9netn9ne
believe it or not its actually a wrap
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:38 AM
  #28324  
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Ok, I have a question about guys my tekin pro 4 4000kv

At the beginning of the year I was running a 1410 castle motor, it ripped, and was smooth. I then have switched to the pro4 4000kv when I added the jammin chassis and some more tlr components. I basically have every option on the truck, lightened outdrives and tlr kit and hard anodized shocks.

problem is the rear end walks on me all the time. I never felt this with the truck setup the way it was before. I have heard that the 4000kv has so much bottom end that it makes it harder to drive. Because the setup should be solid, but the rear just feels no planted at all....

I have options of 550 trinity 5.5 motor, a 1410 castle or the 4000kv pro 4

also what is the most stable setup for indoor that you guys have tried. I am going through this thing for the last time, added a new bearing set, rebulding diffs and shocks 1 more time.

Also I am running the long rc8 rear brace so that might be making it too stiff....

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Numburn
I swapped out my outdrives in the center diff to the lightened ones and after re-assembling everything correctly it's real tight and there seems to be a spot that catches. I'm sure it's assembled correctly. Did it a few times. I'm curious, would there be a downside to taking out the small shims that sit behind the spider gears? I'd rather do that then double the gasket.
Double gasket and be done with it...I can't tell you how many times I built and rebuilt my center diff trying to fix this exact same issue and nothing worked until I tried the 2nd gasket now it's silky smooth with no leaks.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:54 AM
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I've commented about the differences between the 4000 vs the 4600 Pro4. Try the 5.5 and see if it suits you better. Go back to the stock plastic brace. The long braces only work well if you have a ton of rear traction. Also, try moving or adding weight to the rear of the truck. They are nose heavy and that makes the rear end twitchy. The farther you move the CG the more stable the truck will be. Move it too far you'll lose steering, but the rear end will be planted. I'm at 50/50 right now and IMHO it is much better than it was stock.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:14 AM
  #28327  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Did you have glitching problems with the stock servo? Did you even run the truck before you added the Savox? 10:1 says the problem is your problem is the Savox servo. Don't believe me? Put the stock servo back in the truck and drive it.

I've seen hundreds of complaints on these forums about the exact same problem. It's almost always the same combination, Spektrum receiver, Mamba Max Pro and a Savox servo.
Does it with the stock servo too. We've tried pretty much everything you can think of, I think the spectrum rx/tx is just garbage.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Well, it's well done. I like clean crisp lines like a full size truck not these airbrush jobs we see all the time.
Put it on myself surprisingly
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:22 AM
  #28329  
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Then it's the radio, your batteries, or possibly the battery connector. Borrow a battery and a receiver/radio system and try them out one at a time. Stick with the stock servo until you fix the initial problem.

My son's RTR had a switch that would turn off on a bad bounce. I screwed a plastic stop on the switch and fixed that issue. The only other problem we've had is cheap bullet connectors making intermittent contact with the battery. New solid bullets fixed that issue.



Originally Posted by trailtubes
Does it with the stock servo too. We've tried pretty much everything you can think of, I think the spectrum rx/tx is just garbage.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:32 AM
  #28330  
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Originally Posted by bigemike
Ok, I have a question about guys my tekin pro 4 4000kv

At the beginning of the year I was running a 1410 castle motor, it ripped, and was smooth. I then have switched to the pro4 4000kv when I added the jammin chassis and some more tlr components. I basically have every option on the truck, lightened outdrives and tlr kit and hard anodized shocks.

problem is the rear end walks on me all the time. I never felt this with the truck setup the way it was before. I have heard that the 4000kv has so much bottom end that it makes it harder to drive. Because the setup should be solid, but the rear just feels no planted at all....

I have options of 550 trinity 5.5 motor, a 1410 castle or the 4000kv pro 4

also what is the most stable setup for indoor that you guys have tried. I am going through this thing for the last time, added a new bearing set, rebulding diffs and shocks 1 more time.

Also I am running the long rc8 rear brace so that might be making it too stiff....

Any help would be appreciated.
Use stock chassis brace,stock shock positions w 32f 27.5r,diffs 5/5/3, -1 camber all around, 2.5 rear toe,3* antisquat.....should be pretty good then. Of course tires are #1
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:38 AM
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If he's already having rear end problems 2.5 degrees of toe is NOT the answer.

Originally Posted by nitro0619
Use stock chassis brace,stock shock positions w 32f 27.5r,diffs 5/5/3, -1 camber all around, 2.5 rear toe,3* antisquat.....should be pretty good then. Of course tires are #1
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Then it's the radio, your batteries, or possibly the battery connector. Borrow a battery and a receiver/radio system and try them out one at a time. Stick with the stock servo until you fix the initial problem.

My son's RTR had a switch that would turn off on a bad bounce. I screwed a plastic stop on the switch and fixed that issue. The only other problem we've had is cheap bullet connectors making intermittent contact with the battery. New solid bullets fixed that issue.
On MY scte the spectrum and the switch were the problems. I replaced the radio system and cut the switch off completely and soldered the wires together. Mine runs great now. (I do think it's bs that I got a junk rx/rx with my truck though)


On my buddys truck we tried two different speed controls, we cut his switch off like mine, Didn't help. We tried 2 glitch busters, then a bec. Didnt help. We might try a different radio and receiver tonight. But, like my buddy says you shouldn't have to buy a new radio to put on a brand-new RTR. I was reading on the rtr thread, and it sounds like this is a pretty wide spread issue with the rtr.
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:10 PM
  #28333  
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Originally Posted by trailtubes
We are both running glitch busters, savox 1258tg servos and the rest is the stock rtr stuff. Losi also sent him a new speedo and that didn't help. He also bought and tried an external bec. That didnt work either. We are both running the 40c batteries, I even have one 20c 5000 Turnigy, and it'll run my truck with no glitching... Bottom line is, his truck won't work, and it's not the batteries. I think it's the spectrum rx and/or the tx. Is yours the rtr?
Originally Posted by trailtubes
Does it with the stock servo too. We've tried pretty much everything you can think of, I think the spectrum rx/tx is just garbage.
savox + mmp + spektrum rx = no bueno

a BEC may fix it though
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:13 PM
  #28334  
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For anyone who runs spektrum with savox and is having glitching issues.

The stock servo on the RTR scte should be able to operate without glitching you are probably finding that you are having problems after adding a bigger servo

You can run 7.4 from the lipo straight to the reciever with no bec. just like in nitro cars with spektrum they can handle 2s lipo to power the reciever. The savox servo can also handle the voltage. you can pull the red wire out of the esc's reciever plug after you wire the 7.4v into the reciever. to do this you wire directly from your +/- of battery to a connector that will plug into your reciever like a glitch buster does. you can add an inline switch to make and on /off for your truck

now if you run any other brand like futaba you have to run a bec to lower the voltage to 6v.

I have been adding a bec to all my bigger vehicles these days. Between the amp draw of the motors and high amp draw of the servos you will see alot of issues with brown outs especially with anything that is a castle brand esc.

You might also get away with one of the newer capacitor banks like this as well

http://www.hobbypartz.com/sucamoforxse.html

I think lrp and castle have come out with similar capacitor setups.

The stock servo on the RTR scte should be able to operate without glitching you are probably finding that you are having problems after adding a bigger servo
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Old 01-27-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I've commented about the differences between the 4000 vs the 4600 Pro4. Try the 5.5 and see if it suits you better. Go back to the stock plastic brace. The long braces only work well if you have a ton of rear traction. Also, try moving or adding weight to the rear of the truck. They are nose heavy and that makes the rear end twitchy. The farther you move the CG the more stable the truck will be. Move it too far you'll lose steering, but the rear end will be planted. I'm at 50/50 right now and IMHO it is much better than it was stock.
thanks that is exactly what I was thinking
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