M3Armand

Looks like the C hub carriers and the hubs (aka steering blocks or knuckle arms) are carryover from the HPI Pro4! These are the "graphite" parts and looks like have been known to be brittle going back to the Pro4.

So can someone tell me what is the advantage of using these parts when the same parts from the Sprint 2 are a direct fit and seem to be made of the same plastic as I have in my older RS4 Pro which have never broken on me?

CSF0623

iTrader: (12)

Graphite has less flex which can give you more control, but that lack of flex will most likely break during a bad enough wreck rather than give a bit like plastic.

CSF0623

iTrader: (12)

Are your front MIP CVD's from the Cyclone? BTW nice build on your TCX!!

M3Armand

Sounds like I'm leaving the Sprint 2 parts on... you can't control the car when one wheel is flopping around since the graphite hub broke...

John Doucakis

iTrader: (1)

Sorry mate, I cannot disclose any info about my balls. Its a private matter.
TAMIYA
Top end: 53599 Fluroine Coated 5mm Alum Ball Nut
Low end: 54209 Fluroine Coated 5x5mm Alum Ball con/tor

only in combination with
HPI A471 - Nitro RS4 shock parts set


Thanks!
HPI PRO4 MIP 46mm, although I think the Cyclone's 44mm MIP would also fit.

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Whats the release date for the gear diff?

san.

iTrader: (61)

The MIP 44mm will only fit the rear TCX setup, not the front.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

I was very disappointed by the Pro4 46mm MIP... In fact they are thinner than the Moore version.

One race without any big crash and my MIP is twisted just under the pin...

I thnik I'm definitely into the Yokomo thing... So let's me summarize once again:

- I order this part YOKOMO BD5 FRONT UNIVERSAL SHAFT 45.5MM
- And this one YOKOMO BD-5 FRONT SPOOL REPLACEMENT SET
- Sand the outdrives 1mm to made their hole align with the holes in my TCX spool
- Replace my TCX MIP by the UNIVERSAL SHAFTs on my front drive (nothing else to do, direct fit)

And tada, I got a TCX BD5

Can't believe this is so simple, really?

Luke Hobson

Watch out though, STD Yokomo outdrives are weak, and won't last many(any) big crashes on indoor tracks.... Get the steel ones if you can

Luke

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Oh you talk about these UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFT FRONT STEEL ?

Can I mount these directly instead of my purple dogbones?

Will the Yokomo assemble with the HB Coupling and the HB universal axle without problem?

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Yes it is that simple Lucky ive owned a few cars over the past year so had the parts to muck around with and find out what fits Luke is talking about these Spool outdrives: http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=19229 Although the steel ones would offer a bit more driveshaft chatter from what i found on the Yokomo, and would be a lot harder to remove the "lip" without a dremel or grinder.

The Yokomo outdrives are MUCH stronger than the Tamiya ones. The Tamiya ones only lasted 3 cornerns when i first drove with them They snapped under brakes The best way is to use the plastic outdrive with a sleeve over the top and they wont break anymore

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Oups my bad!

I was sure he was talking about the dogbones...

Ok so the BD-010F are ok, but with YOK-D-046...

Finally...

Hugh Jazz

iTrader: (4)

Are these the sleeves you are talking about
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=17764

Dont know if i like the idea of blue on my purple car

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

That's why these ones could be better

Matt W

Hey guys,

has anyone got any good setup sheets for a high grip track with possibilities of traction roll?

Also has anyone got any of the carpet setups for alexandra stocker, freddy sudhoff, etc as u never see any of them online?

many thanks!!