Xray T3 2011
#2133
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
#2135
#2136
#2138
Tech Apprentice
When under power the drive shafts bind in the diff outdrives a bit and have a tendancy to want to impart a torque that forces the suspension to flatten out a bit... A longer drive shaft tends to bind more, impart torque, and resist roll more... In essence limiting roll somewhat like a roll bar.
#2139
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
#2140
#2142
The Evicerator
It means that it is causing a force on the suspension... either forcing it to compress or uncompress depending on it's position... "ever action has an equal and opposite reaction" ? The drive shaft is acting on the suspension, the suspension is acting on the drive shaft.
Essentially, the drive shaft "wants" to run straight and it can contribute a force that will keep the suspension from moving... similiar to the way that sweep in the pins or antisquat/prosquat cause the suspension to bind in certain situations.
Essentially, the drive shaft "wants" to run straight and it can contribute a force that will keep the suspension from moving... similiar to the way that sweep in the pins or antisquat/prosquat cause the suspension to bind in certain situations.
#2143
#2144
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Called Patrick at RCAmerica and they do carry the ceramic diff balls and thrust bearing. Here are the Xray part numbers if anybody else needs them:
93 0220 2.4mm ceramic diff balls (12)
93 0238 3x8x3.5mm ceramic thrust bearing
Don't know why I didn't think of checking with RCAmerica first, they always have what I need in stock.
93 0220 2.4mm ceramic diff balls (12)
93 0238 3x8x3.5mm ceramic thrust bearing
Don't know why I didn't think of checking with RCAmerica first, they always have what I need in stock.
#2145
The Evicerator
Regarding the comparison between the converted NT1 and spec R gear diff:
I have run both, and I do believe that the NT1 conversion is better for the following reasons: much higher quality finish/parts fit, smoother intial build and subsequent consistant action after breaking in, less tendancy of leaking.
The spec r costs less and is more of a "finished product" ... the conversion costs quite a bit more and will take some careful hand finishing of parts.
So, if you like dremeling/hand finishing parts, and the cost isn't prohibbitive for you, I'd say the nt1 conversion is a good direction to go... if you just want something cheap and easy to just drop in your car and go ... go with the Spec R.
If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!