yokemad

If that's correct is that means that chassis has more flex than cf also a bit weaker against damages?

hacker

iTrader: (141)

same as schumacher S1 composite chassis, fibreglass layer in between each carbon fibre sheet. More flexible, which in most cases is not a bad idea.

yokemad

Thats What I exactly Thought but CSO Chassis more CF Look a like if not a CF...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Correct, a few years back I acquired some similar 2.0mm material from a Chinese supplier for a mini truck project for a really good price. Machined up really nice but the chassis would not lay flat again after a few impacts so the important thing to watch for is tweaked chassis after a few good hits.

yokemad

TBH My one was a bit Tweaked Out of the Pack But I cant wait to try it on track

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

That was for the early belts, keep the xray belt clean. The wd method also attracts dust and dirt.

mok

iTrader: (9)

has anyone used the spec-r lower arms, c-hubs or uprights?
i'm curious as to any different in car handling that might have resulted and also their durability?

yokemad

Hi All
Whats the Bodypost option on the Front shock Tower For?
Cheers

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

It aids in preventing the hood of the body from collapsing and therefore generates a bit more steering. It's even more necessary I believe since we use lightweight bodies.

Mb3195

guys,

whats the best way of loosening up the car a bit when you have too much grip?

I've got a t3 '11, have recently rebuilt it, took it for a practice day yesterday on a high bite technical/mid carpet track, car felt awesome to drive, went exactly where I intended, great balance left/right front/rear, the problem is my lap times were a little down on what I would normally expect.

I think if anything I was generating too much grip and was bogging the car down, scrubbing off too much speed in the process.

I've got my setup posted here if anyone wants to cast there eyes over it:

mark

yokemad

Thanx Fred
I was thinking its there to stop collapse @high speed tracks like you said but while I was searching some setup sheets on one of them it says post been used to stop wheel arche cracking ...
Is that right?
Thanx again...

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome, I can see how that stopping that would be a by-product of the post as well

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Here are some settings I would try, the biggest change being running the pins lower on the arms front to rear with 1* rear hubs. This will force the car to use more of the natural grip from the tires instead of using the pin height to generate grip. Also consider changing the pack of your shocks by going to 64mm which will generate less grip overall, 1mm less on standard hubs and/or 1* hubs will yield less camber gain, heavier rear oil, harder rear spring, heavier rear bar.

Mb3195

thanks fred,

so do you mean run both front and rear roll centres 0.75mm lower using the lower blocks? if this is the case, I thought this would generate more grip?

I was thinking about going for slightly lighter oil all round but bring the % difference between the front and rear closer together, maybe 35 and 37.5wt, thought this may make the car respond slightly quicker.....I may be wrong - driving I'm ok at, setting the car up not so much!

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome Mark. The car will roll more but overall it will generate less grip with the -.75mm blocks than with the .75mm blocks because of the pressure that is applied to the tire. Correct a lighter oil will react quicker but too light and you will overheat the tires and loss grip all around.