yokemad

Thanx for the info...

Dane

iTrader: (26)

I struggled the same. Get rid of those bladders and use the bladders in the Hot Bodies Cyclone. They cost about $4 and are way better than the stock xrays. I could build the shocks perfectly everytime with the HB bladders whereas it was a gamble with the old bladders and more than likely would rip the same as you.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

you need to raise the ball on the zeppin brace 6mm atleast.....look at shano83 pics....the exotek has it built in to its brace......as for rubbing dont think his does.....

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I think I know what you are getting at, Its the balls that attach the steering arms to the brace that rub on the lower part of the belt, not the ball that connects to the servo saver.
I have had a good look at it, if you flip the diff to the lower position it doesnt rub, or you could raise the two mounting posts with spacers to get the 2 or 3mm needed. Neither really appeal to me.
Any suggestions welcome, otherwise I will be adding the exotek steering brace to my shopping list( good excuse to buy the chassis to save on postage!)

blade072

iTrader: (98)

look at the pic of the exotek setup.....uses more spacers as they put the servo link parallel..... whats a couple of spacers underneath compared to on the actual saver......wish everything could be perfect.....but there is no such thing in life....

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

I see items disappear and the reappear on their site, it seems to maybe be a glitch or something. I quite sure they are still selling them

EDIT: I just checked and it is listed on their site but it is out of stock at the moment.


This has happened to me before as well. When you put the cap back on only tighten it to the point to when it starts to give resistance when turning. This will leave about .75mm to 1mm of space between the cap and the shock body. You don't want to tighten the cap all the way down as this forces the bladder into the shock body which damages it by smashing the bladder lip as well.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Have you installed your zeppin brace yet blade? Just wondering if the flat side should go up or down. with the flat side up, as the orginal xray brace is installed, it rubs. With the two humps facing up it should fit, but the bearings are the wrong way round

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I'm interested in this option, can you paste a link, or some more info.

Thanks,
32819toon

HarryLeach

Nothing complicated, just mount a rear body post to the front shock tower. The stock XRay rear mounts fit, I'm using an HPI body post I had laying around.

arn671

iTrader: (17)

This question is for guys that have the new T3 gear diff and a converted NT-1 Diff. Wondering if anyone can compare the lengths of the outdrives of the NT-1 diff and the outdrives in the new gear diff. Just noticed that the gears are the same as the composite gears that are in the NT-1 Diff. I'm wondering if I can just buy the diff case and o-rings for the new diff, and use the internals of the NT-1 diff that I already have. It's nice to not have to switch to the 50mm axles. Thanks in advance

1101

Do you drill the body for this 3rd front post , or does it sit under the body only ??
Cheers

sohlman

iTrader: (92)

Not sure about everyone else, but mine just sits under the body. I also use Tamiya rear body mount spacers to push the mount back further towards the bottom of the windshield. I can take pics later tonight.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I put a hole through the body with a body hole reamer, then put the post all the way through with a body clip on top, without the clip it is just preventing the body from pushing down.

Ron-Z

I also have a T3'11 XRAY car is my favorite, I also give you a few days being counted!

HarryLeach

Yes, 3rd hole.