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Xray T3 2011

Old 08-22-2011, 06:11 AM
  #2911  
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Just spent all evening trying to get the zepping racing steering brace/ center steering link bridge working. It makes the steering arms rub on the front belt when turning left/right. Dont bother, spend the extra cash and get the exotek one.
I tried every conceivable orentation and when installed, the steering ball caps rub on the belt when turning the wheel left to right. Its only 2 or 3mm off, but its enough
Thanx for the info...
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:35 AM
  #2912  
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Originally Posted by E-clip View Post
The caps were on very tight when I tryed to unscrew them
thanks
I struggled the same. Get rid of those bladders and use the bladders in the Hot Bodies Cyclone. They cost about $4 and are way better than the stock xrays. I could build the shocks perfectly everytime with the HB bladders whereas it was a gamble with the old bladders and more than likely would rip the same as you.
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:57 AM
  #2913  
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Just spent all evening trying to get the zepping racing steering brace/ center steering link bridge working. It makes the steering arms rub on the front belt when turning left/right. Dont bother, spend the extra cash and get the exotek one.
I tried every conceivable orentation and when installed, the steering ball caps rub on the belt when turning the wheel left to right. Its only 2 or 3mm off, but its enough
you need to raise the ball on the zeppin brace 6mm atleast.....look at shano83 pics....the exotek has it built in to its brace......as for rubbing dont think his does.....
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:14 AM
  #2914  
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Originally Posted by blade072 View Post
you need to raise the ball on the zeppin brace 6mm atleast.....look at shano83 pics....the exotek has it built in to its brace......as for rubbing dont think his does.....
I think I know what you are getting at, Its the balls that attach the steering arms to the brace that rub on the lower part of the belt, not the ball that connects to the servo saver.
I have had a good look at it, if you flip the diff to the lower position it doesnt rub, or you could raise the two mounting posts with spacers to get the 2 or 3mm needed. Neither really appeal to me.
Any suggestions welcome, otherwise I will be adding the exotek steering brace to my shopping list( good excuse to buy the chassis to save on postage!)
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:20 AM
  #2915  
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Originally Posted by kinga View Post
I think I know what you are getting at, Its the balls that attach the steering arms to the brace that rub on the lower part of the belt, not the ball that connects to the servo saver.
I have had a good look at it, if you flip the diff to the lower position it doesnt rub, or you could raise the two mounting posts with spacers to get the 2 or 3mm needed. Neither really appeal to me.
Any suggestions welcome, otherwise I will be adding the exotek steering brace to my shopping list( good excuse to buy the chassis to save on postage!)
look at the pic of the exotek setup.....uses more spacers as they put the servo link parallel..... whats a couple of spacers underneath compared to on the actual saver......wish everything could be perfect.....but there is no such thing in life....
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:42 AM
  #2916  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Any idea why Nexus would delete the gear diff from their site?
I see items disappear and the reappear on their site, it seems to maybe be a glitch or something. I quite sure they are still selling them

EDIT: I just checked and it is listed on their site but it is out of stock at the moment.


Originally Posted by E-clip View Post
I have just gone to rebulid some 2nd hand shocks I brought to find that the bladders in all four shocks were ripped around the lip with only about 2mm left holding it together.
The bladders are the new 2011 low membranes.

Has anyone else had this happen to them ??
or is this some team speed secret ??

I don't see how they could be torn like this
The shock caps also had been drilled out and plugged with grub screw for rebound I guess
This has happened to me before as well. When you put the cap back on only tighten it to the point to when it starts to give resistance when turning. This will leave about .75mm to 1mm of space between the cap and the shock body. You don't want to tighten the cap all the way down as this forces the bladder into the shock body which damages it by smashing the bladder lip as well.

Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 08-22-2011 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:43 AM
  #2917  
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Have you installed your zeppin brace yet blade? Just wondering if the flat side should go up or down. with the flat side up, as the orginal xray brace is installed, it rubs. With the two humps facing up it should fit, but the bearings are the wrong way round
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:18 PM
  #2918  
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Hi All
Whats the Bodypost option on the Front shock Tower For?
Cheers
Hi, I'm interested in this option, can you paste a link, or some more info.

Thanks,
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:07 PM
  #2919  
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Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
Hi, I'm interested in this option, can you paste a link, or some more info.

Thanks,
32819toon
Nothing complicated, just mount a rear body post to the front shock tower. The stock XRay rear mounts fit, I'm using an HPI body post I had laying around.
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:30 PM
  #2920  
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Default Xray T3 Gear diff

This question is for guys that have the new T3 gear diff and a converted NT-1 Diff. Wondering if anyone can compare the lengths of the outdrives of the NT-1 diff and the outdrives in the new gear diff. Just noticed that the gears are the same as the composite gears that are in the NT-1 Diff. I'm wondering if I can just buy the diff case and o-rings for the new diff, and use the internals of the NT-1 diff that I already have. It's nice to not have to switch to the 50mm axles. Thanks in advance
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Old 08-23-2011, 01:15 AM
  #2921  
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Nothing complicated, just mount a rear body post to the front shock tower. The stock XRay rear mounts fit, I'm using an HPI body post I had laying around.
Do you drill the body for this 3rd front post , or does it sit under the body only ??
Cheers
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:22 AM
  #2922  
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Do you drill the body for this 3rd front post , or does it sit under the body only ??
Cheers
Not sure about everyone else, but mine just sits under the body. I also use Tamiya rear body mount spacers to push the mount back further towards the bottom of the windshield. I can take pics later tonight.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:39 AM
  #2923  
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I put a hole through the body with a body hole reamer, then put the post all the way through with a body clip on top, without the clip it is just preventing the body from pushing down.
Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Do you drill the body for this 3rd front post , or does it sit under the body only ??
Cheers
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:43 AM
  #2924  
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I also have a T3'11 XRAY car is my favorite, I also give you a few days being counted!
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:48 AM
  #2925  
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Do you drill the body for this 3rd front post , or does it sit under the body only ??
Cheers
Yes, 3rd hole.
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