Xray T3 2011
#2163
Tech Regular
#2164
Tech Master
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#2165
Tech Regular
#2168

My SpecR diffs dont leak and they are full
think it is the way they are built ,
I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break
I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
think it is the way they are built ,
I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break
I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
#2169
Tech Regular

My SpecR diffs dont leak and they are full
think it is the way they are built ,
I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break
I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
think it is the way they are built ,
I used the 52mm shafts also but you need to trim the blades down quite a lot , this is ok if your running a non boost class but for a boosted or mod class they are too thin and they break
I now use the 50mm shafts and it is great
Two other club racers have a spec r diff without probs
#2170

I am in the same boat waiting for the Xray Gear Diff. I run 52's all the way around so switching to Spec R and 50's is a little pricey. I hope the gear diff becomes available soon.
#2171

Alignment with idler gear is very good. If needed this can be adjusted by shims between the gear and the center section.
#2172

so is this pretty much the same diff you can buy at rcmarket?
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139
#2173

No drill jig. Entire diff is made on a Hudy tire lathe with a exacto knife, a dremmel to modify the gear, and a pin vise to drill the 4 holes to secure the 2 pieces togeather.
The newest version that I do now only takes the center section down so that the inner section is only reduced enough to allow the outer gear inner diameter to slip over it. The nice thing about this is it centers the gear for vitually no run out and give it a little more strength. The only thing that requires more work is the cover plate on one side has to be trimmed to allow a flush fit.
The newest version that I do now only takes the center section down so that the inner section is only reduced enough to allow the outer gear inner diameter to slip over it. The nice thing about this is it centers the gear for vitually no run out and give it a little more strength. The only thing that requires more work is the cover plate on one side has to be trimmed to allow a flush fit.
#2174

The diff requires 50mm/3.0 blades. The plunge is still very shallow so unless your running a wide setup 52mm will not work. I looked at modding the outdrives but the plunge is already bottomed out so it would weaken the halfes too much, or at least I think it would snap them in half with anything with power.
#2175

What is the part # for the 3.0 blades?
-James
-James