d_scientist

does anyone knows how much max amps does the 4247SL motor pulls?

helping a friend determine if a 130A orion esc will work

MattP

iTrader: (440)

That's what I was kinda leaning towards as well.....

slater333

iTrader: (12)

does the xerun 150a have same exact program box features as the xerun 120a v2?

I want an 1/8th scale esc that i can set boost, timing, punch, turbo delay, etc like the 120a.

thanks

darcness

iTrader: (3)

I ordered a 120a ESC for my 4247SL because the way I configured it, based on the specs listed on the falcon sekido web page, it was pulling about 100a max continuous load.

According to the specs it's rated at 1350w. To get amps you do watts divided by volts, which equates to about 91-92 amps. If you're running a 3s pack, then you're looking at closer to 121-122 amps. So if you run 4s I would say you're safe with the 130a, but if you're running any less you'd be close to the limits of the ESC.

darcness

iTrader: (3)

Really? What's the point of getting the Xerun ESC over the EZRun then? If that's the case I should have just saved myself some money and went with an EZRun ESC and a sensorless 4274 motor.

kaneye2

iTrader: (2)

I am totally new to the world of Electric RC (I'm a NITRO Guy ) and just need a bit of guidance on how to set up my Hobbywing ESC for proper performance. Exactly what is the point of connecting the sensor wire from the ESC to the motor, and is it the best way to run as opposed to running without it?. I'm running a HW 120A ESC with a HW 8.5T motor in a 4WD buggy. Is there an appreciable performance difference between the two?.Thanks.

cavg

Yes. You get more control when getting on the throttle. With the sensor, the system knows where the rotor is in the motor, and can smoothly get it going. Without it it doesn't know, and just applies the power, and the rotor/motor has to catch up and that can give you an slight on/off-feeling when you are coming on the throttle again.

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

The only reason I went sensored is because I have such a high kv motor. In my exp, the lower the kv, the smoother it will run unsensored. Just try it. One less thing to fail... Even with the setup I have now, if the sensor wire fails, I just pull it and the thing runs pretty smooth(better than i thought it would). And that is with a 550 5200 4 pole.

As for why they even have it... Some people just have to run sensored, no matter what, just because.

kaneye2

iTrader: (2)

Sir;
Thank you very much for taking the time to explain this to me.So it sounds like it's worth it to utilize the sensor wire than not .

froggie22

iTrader: (4)

I have a small question, I ordered the hobbywing 120a v2.1 esc and they sent the 120a 1S instead. Now i can hardley tell a difference between them bar the 1S not supporting 3S (I will only be running 2S anyway). The 1S came with a heat sink and fan aswel so thats not a problem.

Does anyone know the difference between them? Should I exchange it or just not worry about it?

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

If you only run 2s lipos, it does NOT matter... I own both and run 10th scale vehicles.

froggie22

iTrader: (4)

I didn't think there was much difference. I have also just noticed that on the Hobbywing site the 1S shows more programmable options, ie turbo and boost setting. Where as the v2.1 didn't have those. I will stick with the 1S.

Thanks for the quick reply!

MattP

iTrader: (440)

I ordered two of the blue 150amp 1/8 scale escs last week. Anything I should look out for or are they pretty much ready to go out of the box?

evostyle

iTrader: (103)

Hi Froggie, I'm running the 1S with 2cell mod 4wd buggy with a LRP 7.5 and it works great. You do need to install the heatsink and run the fan for lower turn motors. 17.5 or 21.5 would probably be ok without.

This is right off the US hobbywing distributor site.


How to install the heat sink on to Xerun 120A 1S ESC?
Please find 3 steps instruction
Before proceed, please note that it is your sole responsibility to install the heat sink on ESC. Hobbywing nor FalconSEKIDO won't be able to ensure the performance as result of the installation.


Step 1
Open the upper case of product.

Step 2
After opening the upper case, remove the top cover (1S design)

Step 3
Insert the accessory heat sink from the bottom side of upper case, then close the upper case.

Done!!

I just reused the heat sink tape that was under the 1S plate for the new heatsink.

I also noticed the different programming option, however I'm 99% sure they have the same programming once the software is updated. This comes from a team driver for hobbywing. He said the photo (of the options) was a old photo.

froggie22

iTrader: (4)

Similar set-up to what I'll be running. It's a b44.2 with a 8.5t. I did install the heat sink and fan but I just stuck it on top, didn't even think of opening it up! I better open it up and do it right tonight.. Any tips on opening up the case or is it pretty straight forward? (I don't have it in front of me right now)

Yeah I can't see them running very different software on them so I thought it may have just been a mistake on the site.