applewood

I've made up my mind and going to order the losi ten scte rtr. Its been a while since I had rc cars and things have changed quite a lot especially with batteries.

I've contacted losi and they recommend ang 2S 50C lipo. That should now be straight forward but when I look on hobbyking the lipos in hardpacks from turnigy are in ranges either 50-100C or 65-130C. Which do i need, or recommend?

They also do a imax b6 or tunigy accucell6 balance charger which look reasonable. Any views on these please.

Is there any spares I need on day one for the tuck? I have a local store but they will usually have to order in.

This is my first post so go easy on me if I am covering old ground.

Thanks in advance.

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

You sound a lot like where I was 2 years ago. I got an SCTE and have really loved it and it got me back into RC in general. The higher the C rating the better, especially for this truck which is heavy and draws a lot of current.

I have been using the IMAX B6AC and it is fine. If you use a high MAH battery (ie >5000mah) then this charger is not as fast as others can be (as it maxes out at 5.0A), but will certainly do the job.

PM me and I can send you a quick guide that I wrote for some friends also new to RC who got SCTE's. It covers a lot of the ground you will want.

applewood

Pm sent, thank you

Matty J

iTrader: (7)

@applewood,

Looking forward to picking one up as well. I am digging through the for sale thread for a good rig!

bigair78

Got a question about my new scte 2.0.

There seems to be a slight hesitation when it takes off. I looks and sounds like cogging but I have tried 2 brushless systems and both do it.

I am running mip puck system and BCE H1 chassis. I have read about slop in the factory drive train but nothing on the mip setup.

Any suggestions? Once it takes off it seems to run pretty good.

I should also note I did not build the truck. I bought it as a roller.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Check set screw on center drive shafts to ensure they did not back out. Only way to know for sure is tear it down. You need to do this on any used rig to prevent DNF and confirm condition of parts you can't see. My money is on center or rear diff. Out drive shims inside each diff are high wear items. Seem to wear faster on center diff, so that is a good place to start. The ring gear backlash is suspect if not shimmed for proper clearance Check to see how much play you have between ring gear and pinion. Should just be enough to notice slight amount of play. Check ring gear teeth with magnifying glass after you clean all the grease off. If it skipped teeth you will see damage. Let us know what you find. Could help others with same problem.

bigair78

Will let you all know. That seems like a lot to check lol.

rpboggs1

iTrader: (19)

Before you check anything else try a different sensor cable or remove it completely (if your esc supports sensorless mode). Bad sensor cables fool me every time. Haha

bigair78

All my systems are sensorless right now. But I tried 2 different systems with 2 different types of servos. The only thing I have not changed out is the receiver. It is a brand new spektrum.

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

I just realized 90% of this is the same as my 810 buggy. I think I'm going to buy all the parts and build myself a SCTE. looks like I can get everything for about $70 including tires and rims

mtpocketsracing

iTrader: (2)

make sure your battery isn't worn out. I have a turnigy battery that will stutter on a hard launch because the voltage cut off is kicking in.
when I run my good batteries its fine. this turnigy is now my starter box battery

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

LOL, Yes it can be a lot when your chasing down a problem. Working on them is half the fun of RC. It just takes a few successful repairs to realize this. Best thing about going through entire truck is knowing what is right about it. The possible problems are eliminated leaving only what needs to be repaired.

It's the cleanup of parts and reassembly that take time, but that is time well spent IMHO

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...e-3-0-new.html

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Here is the secret to building a bulletproof diff for your truck once and for all.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...oof-diffs.html

Hope this helps you get 100 lipos between diff builds.

thehugegoose

I have read most of this epic thread over the last few months looking for various pieces of information. I got myself an SCTE in June and had several months of outdoor play before moving indoors in October onto a big astro track with a nice technical midfield.

I though I would add some stuff maybe for the benefit of others

1) The diff out drive shims are indeed a high wear item. I build three new HD diffs when I moved indoors as I clearly needed to tune them. Swapped the oil out after maybe 20 packs and the centre rear shim was destroyed! Fronts were moving way more than the rears clearly and the shim took the wear bigtime. They were all marked though and got replaced with some spare shims I had.

2) The outdrives lasted around 35 outdoor packs (full packs too as I haven't officially raced yet so around 12 - 15 minutes) and maybe 5-10 indoors. The rears were so bad that when you spun the wheels by hand on a pit stand they were notchy! The dogbones look new though!

3) New HD diffs: I was looking for more speed and clearly needed to change a bunch of stuff for indoors. Being a noob I read some stuff on the internet and went for 7 7 3. Seemed to be good and I was going through some different tyre choices and suspension setups. However I was not getting very far and was forever chasing the Durango guys (that truck is quick indoors). I spoke to some of the buggy guys at the track who also run an RC store and they gave me some solid advice (after they tried to get me to buy a Durango!). Changed tyres for the test (bald Schumacher mini pins) suspension mods - links + shock position etc and was going to rebuild the diffs with HD outdrives. Following their advice I went from 7 7 3 to 100k 300k 30k!! The times spoke for themselves. 3 seconds a lap faster on my first pack. 26 down to 23. On the following 3 packs I got down to mid 22s. Going back there later this week with some fresh Dboots terrabyte A compound (with the ribs that run around the inside of the tyre trimmed off and proline foams) to try and tweak it down to mid 21s which is Durango territory. Those guys crash a lot too so I should be able to pull something out of the bag come february race time

4) Chassis has held up but both my shock towers bent after about 5 weeks. First the rear and then the front. Will probably order a kingheadz one come payday. I have the front diff mount coming and a tekno front shaft as the OG has lost the pin twice and the bone is showing a little wear.

5) Lots of plastic trimmed from the battery tray and the receiver box to try and save some weight. Got about 60 grams of plastic out all in all mainly from the front which was nice.

6) I replaced all my rod ends with Traxxas Jato stuff. All in one bag for €7. I had to tap the ball ends with a 3mm tap but the advantageof that was that I don't need lock nuts. A bit of blue thread lock keeps them in place until I need to change the position. Those plus the hard anodised saver tube and a new ackermann plate (I use the short indoors) removed perhaps 85% of the slop from the front and all from the rear

Front bumper has held up to all the abuse, shorting triples and generally driving poorly for the first 2 months. I trimmed the outside off of the rear bumper and that really helped body number 2 stay together. I have found that JConcepts bodies are seriously tough although around 25 grams heavier than the Proline flotek even after cutting lots out including several 25mm holes from the roof.

The 4000KV Hobbywing SD3656 does the job very well and I find it to be very smooth even though I run unsensored (SC8 ESC). And for those who are interested I use a 1258TG Savöx servo which keeps things very solid. I can post my full setup if anyone is running on astro and wants to give it a shot. However this post is long enough! Thanks to all you guys posting on here. It has been a wealth of knowledge and vociferous opinion