Originally Posted by tupapi77

3.87 per cell

Originally Posted by tupapi77

Ok so back again to the same topic

I got an Orion batt 7200mah 100c and still the best I got was 8 min.
I replaced everything already so I am out of options.
here is the set up,

hobbywing xerun 4700motor and esc combo
lowered the cut off to 2.8V
replaced the servo savox 1258
nothing binding, new bearings all around
running 14p and stock spur
the last thing I can think is the receiver but I never heard of a receiver draining the power that much.
motor temp 150 - 170
esc 112 - 120
battery took between 4900MAH and 5100MAH to recharge
diff front 7k mid 7k rear 5k

so I guess 8 min. is the best I can expect. weird part is that before I could get 10 min. runs no problem with your typical 5000mah batt.

if you guys have any suggestions by all means please let me know because I am about to throw this thing out the window.

Thanks.
Josh

Originally Posted by bjb

...A cheaper alternative would be to buy the BCE H1 chassis. It allows you to use all your 1.0 parts, but you get a lighter chassis and the new layout options. It also has holes drilled to allow you to upgrade to the 2.0 parts down the road too if you would ever wish to do so (e.g. battery tray, servo mount, etc).

Originally Posted by stelio279

Looks like BCE has closed shop. Website online store isn't working and contact email address from the website bounces back. Anyone know what the story is and if BCE chassis for the SCTE 1.0 are available anywhere?

Originally Posted by applewood

I've made up my mind and going to order the losi ten scte rtr. Its been a while since I had rc cars and things have changed quite a lot especially with batteries.

I've contacted losi and they recommend ang 2S 50C lipo. That should now be straight forward but when I look on hobbyking the lipos in hardpacks from turnigy are in ranges either 50-100C or 65-130C. Which do i need, or recommend?

They also do a imax b6 or tunigy accucell6 balance charger which look reasonable. Any views on these please.

Is there any spares I need on day one for the tuck? I have a local store but they will usually have to order in.

This is my first post so go easy on me if I am covering old ground.

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by bigair78

Got a question about my new scte 2.0.

There seems to be a slight hesitation when it takes off. I looks and sounds like cogging but I have tried 2 brushless systems and both do it.

I am running mip puck system and BCE H1 chassis. I have read about slop in the factory drive train but nothing on the mip setup.

Any suggestions? Once it takes off it seems to run pretty good.

I should also note I did not build the truck. I bought it as a roller.

Originally Posted by Thunder Trail

Check set screw on center drive shafts to ensure they did not back out. Only way to know for sure is tear it down. You need to do this on any used rig to prevent DNF and confirm condition of parts you can't see. My money is on center or rear diff. Out drive shims inside each diff are high wear items. Seem to wear faster on center diff, so that is a good place to start. The ring gear backlash is suspect if not shimmed for proper clearance Check to see how much play you have between ring gear and pinion. Should just be enough to notice slight amount of play. Check ring gear teeth with magnifying glass after you clean all the grease off. If it skipped teeth you will see damage. Let us know what you find. Could help others with same problem.

Originally Posted by bigair78

Will let you all know. That seems like a lot to check lol.

Originally Posted by rpboggs1

Before you check anything else try a different sensor cable or remove it completely (if your esc supports sensorless mode). Bad sensor cables fool me every time. Haha

Originally Posted by bigair78

All my systems are sensorless right now. But I tried 2 different systems with 2 different types of servos. The only thing I have not changed out is the receiver. It is a brand new spektrum.