academygaz

I'm looking at getting an ESC with timing boost, which of these is the one to get for running 13.5 and 17.5?


http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Art...?ArticleID=455


http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Art...?ArticleID=464

Does the first one have timing boost? If not, can it be added with a firmware update? The cost difference is about £1 on eBay.

steliosh

I can tell that the 60A can certainly take boost and turbo and everything, since I use two of these in my 1/5 bike powering a 13.5T and then a 17.5T motor, and another one in my son's Sprint2 RCGT car powering a 17.5T motor.
And, yes, you need a 2into1 program box and a pc to download the latest software.

TeamWTF

iTrader: (11)

They are both rated at 60a and both are updatable with the current boost software.

Personally i would go with the 120a speedy.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

does anyone in the united states sell hobbywing speedos?
I ordered mine from Hong Kong but its been 3 weeks. Im
really tired of supporting them.

madone

http://myworld.ebay.com/oldskoolclassics52/

Ships from Arizona.

cocka99

Hi buddies. Today Mi xerun 120A 2.0 Version Breakdown of the unknown. You see, now filming in my circuit, something curious has happened to me and not understand. After a few batteries running the engine and drive well. Of the last change repende Lipo (2S) something very rare happened suddenly switched on the engine would not turn on the light and Red.

Do not Hot the drive and the engine is but today everything was going to 40 degrees both.

To eliminate potential problems, replace the motor and receiver and does the same thing. Prove also with sensors and without sensors and does absolutely nothing, try matching the drive to the station and makes no beeps.

Anyone know what might be the accelerator or brake no turn the engine and turn on the red light?

Mitch-e4fs

iTrader: (7)

I had the exact same thing happen to my 60a today.
It started off as the turbo would drop out. Then it started cogging and now it will flash the red led once on startup and nothing else. It won't even power the receiver.

cocka99

New negative news. I work into the ESC and test the receiver wire and change the capacitor and nothing.

The red light is on when i push the throttle or brake.

I send a Mail to hobbywing and they say to talk whit Himodel because it´s the distribuitor. And Himodel sais the repair it´s About 30 dollars but the ship cost it´s 3 times to the repair cost.

I don´t know what i do.

steliosh

I converted my 1/5 rc bike recently, from KP09 model to KP10...
What prompted the change was a broken chassis plate, and since they are being sold in pairs, I said what the heck, let's do it a 10. This involved getting a new swing arm as well, but presented me with a slight problem: The chassis plates leave a space of 25mm between them, while the old one left 30mm.
So, here's how to squeeze a xerun 60A ESC inside the plates AND keep the fan:


(And, yes, the servo is a vintage S9401!!! Since it works flawlessly, why not?!)

I actually removed the fan from the ESC cooler and enlarged the brake servo opening on the left side chassis plate so that the fan air can reach the cooler.



This is how the fan sends air to the ESC:



and...



I could have mounted the ESC on the outside of the left side chassis plate, but it would be: A. vulnerable to crashes and B. placed a lot outside the inline center of the bike, not to mention I would probably have to run it without a fan, which I really don't want, since summer is almost here... sort of!
I even managed to squeeze a cooler on the motor, by just trimming some edges here and there!!!

Since I am running stock class (17.5T motor, 1900 gram. weight limit, no front brake), I didn't really care to leave the space reserved for the front brake servo free! It's the lower cutout, where the fan cables and the blue cable enter the chassis...

I still have not tested the new chassis, which included a new headstock, too, because I'm missing some small but critical parts to complete the conversion.

The FW installed though is already the latest, with the lowest of the recommended settings for 17.5T onroad, and will see from there on...

But this will be posted in the other thread!

pettyeagles

iTrader: (86)

Anybody know if these run on the same software as the 2s versions? The 1s version will also run 2s lipos. I think the only difference between them is the 1s version has a built in voltage booster to power the servo when running 1s lipos. http://www.hobbyhot.com/xerun-blue-b...d-pr-2699.html

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

The 1s Runs 1s/2s and is auto switching. The voltage booster only works when 1s is being used.

However the XERUN 120A SD that you looked at is a 2s/3s model, that is the only major difference between the two units.

All of the firmwares are compatible across the XERUN range including the STOCK Advanced Timing profiles.

Hope it helps

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Try re flashing the firmware sometimes clears these sort of problems.

Sounds like a reverse battery connection may have happened, feel free to send it to the UK will take a look at it here to give you an idea? PM me for address details. We are the UK distributor for XERUN so may be able to help, but no promises

irgo

!

geubes

Weird Problem!

Both Hobbywing ESC's I have give the same problem, when plugged in, sometimes on powerup, there is no power powering the receiver - no lights, no steering. But the fan ontop of the ESC is spinning fine.

However, if I unplug my transponder from the ESC, then power comes back to the servo and I get drive again. If I plug the transponder back in, then the power to the receiver stops :S!

Now this first appeared on my extreme stock a few months back (so it got put in the pit box) and I started using my SP2.0lpf again trouble free with no issues at all. Then my new 120a got put in the car yesterday and did a full days practice with no problems (using 119 mod). Today I had 119 stock on the esc and the problems started with this ESC.

It seems to much of a coincidence that my 2 Hobbywing ESC's brought 4 months apart have the same problem that seems so-far unfixable and completely random. If this was a regional or national event I would have missed my final!!!.

Any help or suggestions?

Electronics:
IP 5000 40C Lipo
Savox lpf servo
DSM2 Spektrum receiver
Hobbywing extreme or 120a v2.1

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Hi Geubes,

I would doubt that it is the ESC causing the above issue. It is unlikely that 2 ESC's would exhibit the same problem, especially one which hasn't come up before.

possible issues......
which port on the RX are you using for the PT is it the Batt slot or channel 3?
One issue I have had in the past with the ESC is the RX plug wires can become loose due to the constant pulling in and out to program the ESC, try wiggling the wires at the RX end when ESC is turned on.

But having re re-read your post it happens when the PTX is plugged in have you tried a different RX just to eliminate that from the equation?

Have you checked the voltage coming from the RX lead from the ESC's? use a voltmeter across the red and black leads to see if the voltage is correct?

Have you checked the switch harness on the ESC, these can fail.

Try rolling software back to 518 and see if issue occurs, if not then re flash 119/211 TWICE see if that fixes the issue

does it happen when the PTX is disconnected?

When and where did you buy the ESC's?

I know lots of questions but more information is needed on this.

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Link to UK 1s News

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8872955-post25.html