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Old 02-05-2010, 06:31 AM
  #18451  
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Originally Posted by Dog Bone
Check the pins on the front drive shafts - if the pin is protruding from the axle cup, it can cause a ticking sound. .
I think unless he has CVD's, i don't think the dogbones will have this problem in his Cylone S. I had this same issue as well...
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:33 AM
  #18452  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
Ok guys, here is Barry's setup sheet from Snowbirds 2010.
I think he ran the same setup for both mod and 13.5 (i will confirm with him). The FDR for 13.5 was,,,,

Spur Gear: 108t
Pinion: 31t
FDR:7.546

Thanks.
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:13 AM
  #18453  
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:30 AM
  #18454  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?

Last edited by Luppi Stefano; 02-05-2010 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:00 AM
  #18455  
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:30 AM
  #18456  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
You are the best!!
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:32 AM
  #18457  
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
He said he ran the AME chassis with cut middle deck.

Thanks,
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:19 PM
  #18458  
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Originally Posted by Fllyer
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
That was the ticket! Thank you Fllyer, now I can enjoy a quiet car. I never had that happen on any of my cars before, but there is always a first for everything I suppose.
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:00 PM
  #18459  
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Originally Posted by mlight13
That was the ticket! Thank you Fllyer, now I can enjoy a quiet car. I never had that happen on any of my cars before, but there is always a first for everything I suppose.
Your welcome.

It was the first time I had something like that happen on my S also.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:57 AM
  #18460  
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if anyone interested i have a cyclone tc in the for sale thread asking 200 shipped
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...e-tc-sale.html

Last edited by mugenracer; 02-08-2010 at 03:04 AM. Reason: add link
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:06 AM
  #18461  
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This ones for Korey,

A few pages back you suggested that using 0degree ff block and position 1 on the TC wishbone gave a similar effect to the sus block mod: do you use a thin wheel hex with this set-up?

best,

Mi
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:16 AM
  #18462  
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I have a WCE Cyclone with lots of parts and upgrades and extra foam chassis and upperdeck for salpm me if you are intrested
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:11 AM
  #18463  
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Originally Posted by michael.branth
This ones for Korey,

A few pages back you suggested that using 0degree ff block and position 1 on the TC wishbone gave a similar effect to the sus block mod: do you use a thin wheel hex with this set-up?

best,

Mi
Unless the grip is really low and you need more steering, just stick with the standard wheel hex in that situation. You can also try adding a little bit of arm sweep as well if you need more mid-exit steering.

-Korey
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:39 AM
  #18464  
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maybe we could get a peek at barry bakers 13.5 setup from snowbirds ?
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:39 AM
  #18465  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
I think it's good to try going lower the front suspension blocks to 1.0mm and and using thinner wheel hex (4mm). If you still have the push problem after you try this, you might want to think about going narrower on hinge pins (1.5deg blocks).
Hiro/Korey, I tried the 1.0mm shims and 4mm hexes and I got more mid corner. I haven't tried the 1.5mm blocks yet. Thanks for the help.

I noticed that Baker used 3mm shims on the inside front link. Whould this take away mid corner ?
Thanks again.
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