Luppi Stefano

let me know if I like this setup...
next time I will try 2mm spacer on the camber link Buckhead

immrwright7

iTrader: (1)

Main belt on my cyclone tc is really loose just pulled the front diff out and it looks fine does anybody know how to fix this problem?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

adjust the bearing holders - the hex-ish shaped thing that the bearing sits in, don't know off the top of my head which way will make it get tighter, but you can play with it to see the looseness go away

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

ok guys i have a question

what effect does that little piece of foam above the bladder have on how the shock works
compared to not using it
compared to using an oring above the bladder

RevMaxx

my front wheel chatters when steered left or right. i'm using MIP CVD now.
is there a way to correct this other than the DCJ part?

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi all

Im running this setup & i'm chasing a bit more corner speed & corner exit steering .

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/pdfs/...ning_Setup.pdf

Only changes i have made is 5.5mm RH front & 6mm RH rear / 4.5mm downstop all round & rear shock moved up 1 hole on top .

Running Sorex 28's & Exotek lipo chassis .

Track is low grip .

Should i change my front droop / rear swaybar / rear springs / oil ?

Any help wouls be great .

Thanks

mild seven

iTrader: (63)

a small quick change u could make is lowering ur ride height. with the exotec chassis u can run much lower ride heights. for starters try 5.0mm front 5.5 rear. even lower if ur track is not to bumpy.
at my local track i run 4.8mm front 5.2mm rear and have awesome corner speed compared to running 5.5 and 6 which i used to run with the original chassis.

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi

The problem i have is the chassis already scraps near the down stop screw on the rear ( track is bumpy )

What down stop do you run with that ride hight ?

I think i need to go up a spring in the rear ( run silver frt & rear ) or maybe run silver swaybars frt & rear , maybe lift rear shock up a hole on top .

Any thoughts

Thanks

goots

iTrader: (20)

my track has pretty bumpy sections, medium grip track...

5.5mm F and 6.0mm R ride height
3.0mm droop in front 2.0mm in back
1.4 F 1.2 R sway bars
3 hole pistons
kit springs all-around
50wt oil in front 45wt in back
stock foams in shocks 75% rebound
shock position 3 on all corners
2.0 front toe block
3.0 rear toe block
1.5 shims under FF FR RF RR toe blocks
1.5 mm shim under F camber link
1.0 mm shim under R camber link
1.0 degree toe-out front
1.5 degree negative camber all-around
everything else stock

track temps last race was 144+ degrees
sorex 40R

this is permanant track in Hawaii

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

New parking lot setup of mine. so far it's been pretty decent wherever I go! I forgot to add in the notes... add a .5mm spacer on the steering ballstud on the steering knuckle.

-Korey

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

Korey,

I have noticed the tamiya guys use a lot of antidive in front, do you feel that works for the Cyclone too?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I think in modified it can help. It keeps the front end from diving so much under braking which seems to make the car a little more stable to me.

-Korey

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Hi Korey,

What do you think of the EXP36 tires compared to MM and Sorex?

I just tried the MM32_Absolutes for the first time (was Sorex36) and the car is like it is on rails.

Cheers

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

They are pretty similar to sorex. I feel on the first run they are faster than brand new sorexs... but after that they feel pretty equal. I remember running the MM absolutes when I ran for Much More in the past. They work really well too, but justg about any tire worked at the track I ran them at. It was a super high bite indoor asphalt track that made any tire really good!

-Korey

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi

Any chance of a better pic of that setup sheet ? ( can't read the full settings )

Or can you just write the setup on this

Thanks