Hot Bodies Cyclone

Reply

Old 02-04-2010, 09:24 AM
  #18451  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 990
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Ok guys, here is Barry's setup sheet from Snowbirds 2010.
I think he ran the same setup for both mod and 13.5 (i will confirm with him). The FDR for 13.5 was,,,,

Spur Gear: 108t
Pinion: 31t
FDR:7.546

Thanks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Hi-LowBlow is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2010, 11:09 AM
  #18452  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,158
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Totally agree with what Hiro said. You cal also run a little bit of arm sweep by running a 2.5 or 3.0 block in the FF block.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2010, 11:50 AM
  #18453  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
trickd122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 509
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default Rear toe issue

-Korey

How do I fix the rear toe issue on my car. I spoke to several guys and they say that they have bent the rear alu hub. So if I use a 3 deg on the Hudy gauges it's a little less that 2.5.
trickd122 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2010, 11:55 AM
  #18454  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,158
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
-Korey

How do I fix the rear toe issue on my car. I spoke to several guys and they say that they have bent the rear alu hub. So if I use a 3 deg on the Hudy gauges it's a little less that 2.5.
Well, there was a small run of rear hub carriers that had the holes drilled a little weird. Good way to check the rear hubs is to see if the holes are in the same spot on both ends of the hub carrier. If it isn't drill straight, one will be a little offset.

I personally use the aluminum ones so I wouldn't have to worry about that. I haven't had any issues with them for about a year of racing. HB uses a pretty good aluminum for those particular parts.

Also check your hinge pins and make sure they are straight. Those can have an affect on rear toe in as well.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2010, 01:54 PM
  #18455  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
 
mlight13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: United States
Posts: 675
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Hey all...please help!

I just finished building my Cyclone S and have had nothing but problems so far. Most have been resolved except for the last one. After I installed all electrical components, all was well until I hit the throttle. It makes a consistent ticking noise at low to mid throttle and I can't figure out where it is coming from. At full throttle, I do not hear it at all. I am running a brand new Team Scream Racing 27T Epic ROAR motor, Robinson Racing Super spur and aluminum pro pinion which were meshed with a piece of paper, and I checked the belts, diffs, etc for tightness. Does anyone have ideas to what is causing this? It just doesn't sound right and I don't want to look like a tool when I show up at the track and have a clicking car. It is already embarrasing enough that I am running a brushed motor Please help.
mlight13 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2010, 05:32 PM
  #18456  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Scott City, MO
Posts: 105
Default

Originally Posted by mlight13 View Post
Hey all...please help!

I just finished building my Cyclone S and have had nothing but problems so far. Most have been resolved except for the last one. After I installed all electrical components, all was well until I hit the throttle. It makes a consistent ticking noise at low to mid throttle and I can't figure out where it is coming from. At full throttle, I do not hear it at all. I am running a brand new Team Scream Racing 27T Epic ROAR motor, Robinson Racing Super spur and aluminum pro pinion which were meshed with a piece of paper, and I checked the belts, diffs, etc for tightness. Does anyone have ideas to what is causing this? It just doesn't sound right and I don't want to look like a tool when I show up at the track and have a clicking car. It is already embarrasing enough that I am running a brushed motor Please help.
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
Fllyer is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 05:56 AM
  #18457  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Dog Bone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,411
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fllyer View Post
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
Check the pins on the front drive shafts - if the pin is protruding from the axle cup, it can cause a ticking sound. Don't ask me how I know

Also, make sure spur is clean - if something is wedged into the teeth, it may cause a ticking sound as well.
Dog Bone is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 06:31 AM
  #18458  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
charlie_b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 9,852
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dog Bone View Post
Check the pins on the front drive shafts - if the pin is protruding from the axle cup, it can cause a ticking sound. .
I think unless he has CVD's, i don't think the dogbones will have this problem in his Cylone S. I had this same issue as well...
charlie_b is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 07:33 AM
  #18459  
Tech Regular
 
Luppi Stefano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 490
Default

Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Ok guys, here is Barry's setup sheet from Snowbirds 2010.
I think he ran the same setup for both mod and 13.5 (i will confirm with him). The FDR for 13.5 was,,,,

Spur Gear: 108t
Pinion: 31t
FDR:7.546

Thanks.
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
Luppi Stefano is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 08:13 AM
  #18460  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,158
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 10:30 AM
  #18461  
Tech Regular
 
Luppi Stefano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 490
Default

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I'm pretty sure he ran the chassis that is included with the moorespeed edition car, and typical upper deck and mid deck (not cut).

-Korey
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?

Last edited by Luppi Stefano; 02-05-2010 at 10:54 AM.
Luppi Stefano is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 11:00 AM
  #18462  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,158
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
thanks Korey!!!
Spacer 1,5mm under Rear Pivot Block is useful for increase rear traction?
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
Korey Harbke is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 11:30 AM
  #18463  
Tech Regular
 
Luppi Stefano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Italy
Posts: 490
Default

Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It usually depends on how much grip is actually on the track. In very high traction conditions, the 1.5mm will make the back end of the car corner flatter than say... 1.0mm. This can sometimes produce MORE rear traction. In lower grip conditions, you need the car to roll a little more sometimes, so running 1.0mm would allow that, and create more grip.

I usually always run a 1.5mm in the back just as a starting point. I usually run 1.5mm up front as well, but every now and then if I want to smooth out the car, and gain mid-exit steering... I run 1.0mm in the front.

-Korey
You are the best!!
Luppi Stefano is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 11:32 AM
  #18464  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 990
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
was used Chassis TC? Or Exotek?
Topdeck?
Cut Middle Deck?
thanks
He said he ran the AME chassis with cut middle deck.

Thanks,
Hi-LowBlow is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2010, 01:19 PM
  #18465  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (40)
 
mlight13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: United States
Posts: 675
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fllyer View Post
Had a similar thing happen on my S once. Try placing a washer between the motor screws and the motor plate. It sounds a little like the motor screws might be touching the armature.
That was the ticket! Thank you Fllyer, now I can enjoy a quiet car. I never had that happen on any of my cars before, but there is always a first for everything I suppose.
mlight13 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service