SC10 4x4 Thread
I'm not sure what esc Mantis is running, but here's some general info on the Pro4 motors.
While the Pro4 motors can be run on "sensored only" type speed controls (lrp, novak, etc) they will run hotter than normal with no power gain. As a 4 pole motor the sensors loose accuracy moreso than a 2 pole motor as the rpm ramps up and the base timing on the sensors is higher than optimum. The Pro4 motors will perform best (both temperature wise and performance wise) when run on a "dual mode" esc that starts in sensored and switches to sensorless like the Rx8 or MMpro with 0-10 degrees of timing on the esc and geared up.
While the Pro4 motors can be run on "sensored only" type speed controls (lrp, novak, etc) they will run hotter than normal with no power gain. As a 4 pole motor the sensors loose accuracy moreso than a 2 pole motor as the rpm ramps up and the base timing on the sensors is higher than optimum. The Pro4 motors will perform best (both temperature wise and performance wise) when run on a "dual mode" esc that starts in sensored and switches to sensorless like the Rx8 or MMpro with 0-10 degrees of timing on the esc and geared up.
Another question - I finally decided to install my swaybars, but did so at the track, with improper tools, and mangled one of the pivot balls (dumb, I know...). I'm looking and I don't see these pivot balls available as a seperate part...the closest I can find are the ones that come with part 91125....is that going to be my best option? Are there other replacement ones that definately fit (that someone can speak from experience)? I see some other ones on some online stores, but they don't quite look right...
Sorry, I knew I would forget some setup stuff. Here's the rest.
20t in front, locked down.
camber links are outside hole for all 4 on the shock tower, outside on rear hubs.
.040 shim on bottom of ball studs at the shock tower.
-1 camber in front, -2 in back. Toe is straight up in front, 3/2 in rear.
Saddle packs mounted side to side using Mantis's mount.
24 mm ride height front and back.
The loose condition comes and goes, so I chalk that up to track conditions, but the tight on power has always been there, and continues to be. I thought about the arms, and I plan on pulling them off tonight when i get home from work. They are stock, and about 3 months old.
20t in front, locked down.
camber links are outside hole for all 4 on the shock tower, outside on rear hubs.
.040 shim on bottom of ball studs at the shock tower.
-1 camber in front, -2 in back. Toe is straight up in front, 3/2 in rear.
Saddle packs mounted side to side using Mantis's mount.
24 mm ride height front and back.
The loose condition comes and goes, so I chalk that up to track conditions, but the tight on power has always been there, and continues to be. I thought about the arms, and I plan on pulling them off tonight when i get home from work. They are stock, and about 3 months old.
Put batteries inline.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Thanks for verifying, i'm using that setup with the MMP and it' working out really nice (but with no boost right now) However I think the MMP hast to be in sensored mode to use the "CHEAT" feature which lets you set when the extra timing kicks in, does the RX8 have the same limitation?
So, technically the rx8 doesn't have that limitation. However, in an effort to save 4+ pole motors everywhere, you cannot run sensored only mode on the rx8 so the most timing you could run (say on a 2 pole 550 motor) would be 30 degrees.
Another question - I finally decided to install my swaybars, but did so at the track, with improper tools, and mangled one of the pivot balls (dumb, I know...). I'm looking and I don't see these pivot balls available as a seperate part...the closest I can find are the ones that come with part 91125....is that going to be my best option? Are there other replacement ones that definately fit (that someone can speak from experience)? I see some other ones on some online stores, but they don't quite look right...
The rx8 has dynamic timing that works in dual mode and sensorless mode and you can pick any timing between 0 and 30 degrees. CHEAT mode on the mmp applies timing based on the sensors which never read true zero, but rather hover around 15 degrees of actual timing (even if the can is marked 0). 15 degrees is already well on the upper end of timing that should be applied to these 4 pole motors, so even if you used CHEAT mode any timing you added ontop of that would just be increasing the chance of melting the motor.
So, technically the rx8 doesn't have that limitation. However, in an effort to save 4+ pole motors everywhere, you cannot run sensored only mode on the rx8 so the most timing you could run (say on a 2 pole 550 motor) would be 30 degrees.
So, technically the rx8 doesn't have that limitation. However, in an effort to save 4+ pole motors everywhere, you cannot run sensored only mode on the rx8 so the most timing you could run (say on a 2 pole 550 motor) would be 30 degrees.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Max temp I would never want to see on my Pro4 is 220 as any higher means demagnetization has probably occured making it that much easier to overheat again. Max temp I prefer is 180 so I have a cushion, but right now I have it humming along between 140 to 170 after an 8 minute main depending on the track.
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I already have tekin pro4 4600, im not that impressed, so we will see about this new viper, i run on really big 1/8 scale outdoor tracks in florida so the higher kv moters work for me, btw i now have rx8 and pro4 for sale if anybody wants it, 150 for both,pm ur info
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,229
From: Bay City, TX
Krio, you have any recommended gearing for the 6.5 SCX? No boost no turbo right now, that speedo's out for repair. Ran 13/62 this weekend. Ran fine, but could use some more top end. Just under 150 deg after 10 minutes, and only put about 2700 maH back into the batteries, so I have room to maneuver. Sitcking with 550 can motors, so will probably add the 4.5 SCX soon and use a little boost/turbo to bridge the gap b/w the 2 motors.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Krio, you have any recommended gearing for the 6.5 SCX? No boost no turbo right now, that speedo's out for repair. Ran 13/62 this weekend. Ran fine, but could use some more top end. Just under 150 deg after 10 minutes, and only put about 2700 maH back into the batteries, so I have room to maneuver. Sitcking with 550 can motors, so will probably add the 4.5 SCX soon and use a little boost/turbo to bridge the gap b/w the 2 motors.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,229
From: Bay City, TX
Sensored. LRP SXX TC Spec V1 is what I'm using right now. If I can ever get my Orca MKII TC Spec speedo back it will eventually go back in the truck. Motor and speedo both performed really well, speedo temp was only about 110. Ambient temps here are still mid 80's during the day, so that's all good. Gearing would have been really good on the tighter track we run. But, this track has a long front straight and a double into a table top that I just didn't have enough guts to clear consistently. Not to mention, when the 2nd place car was close early I had to take the preferred line away in the straight. Losi with a 4,000kv Pro 4 motor, and he would pull me 10 to 15 feet on the straight. Had to make sure he was on my outside coming into the corner at the end LOL.



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