5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-06-2011 | 01:09 AM
i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.
Please read the thread.
11-06-2011 | 01:12 AM
i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.
11-06-2011 | 01:52 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
11-06-2011 | 04:11 AM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.
11-06-2011 | 05:20 AM
Im still having problems with the shocks binding. It seems to add about 10wt to the oil I am using, its very drastic. I tried removing the lower x-ring but all the oil leaked out over night 
. Any ideas? Aftermarket rings? Thanks!
. Any ideas? Aftermarket rings? Thanks!
11-06-2011 | 05:36 AM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9392323-post57.html
11-06-2011 | 05:50 AM
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,192
From: São Paulo, Brazil
So, question is:
Does this sound like a common problem caused by water damage? I can probably get it fixed under warranty, but if it can really go tits up that easy I just don't see how I could depend on it for racing.
The motor and ESC are the Novak SC Pro combo with the 4.5 ballistic 550.
Does it sound like a Motor or ESC problem to you guys, and assuming I only replace either or, what you would recommend as an upgrade for the damaged component?
Thanks guys,
Does this sound like a common problem caused by water damage? I can probably get it fixed under warranty, but if it can really go tits up that easy I just don't see how I could depend on it for racing.
The motor and ESC are the Novak SC Pro combo with the 4.5 ballistic 550.
Does it sound like a Motor or ESC problem to you guys, and assuming I only replace either or, what you would recommend as an upgrade for the damaged component?
Thanks guys,
11-06-2011 | 06:07 AM
How many races on the truck? Are your shafts bent? Have you rebuilt them?
11-06-2011 | 06:34 AM
Sparkwraps posted on my "For Sale" thread how he did it, with pictures.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9392323-post57.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9392323-post57.html
11-06-2011 | 06:57 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
i know people have had problems with slippers. i have not had any problem with my truck(3 race on it)(i run my slipper all the way tight or lock as much as i can). but what i want to know is what part is everyone buying to fix it if it dose go out. or should i not worry about it if i run it tight like i do.
11-06-2011 | 07:01 AM
Thought I fixed my rear diff problem. I guess I didn't.
Went racing Sat., my rear diff had previously been making a clicking sound, while on power and turning.
I replaced all the internal gears and took it back out. SOunded good for a while and then started clicking again.
Pulled it apart and I can see the very edge of the sun gears is polished. I also noticed the lip at the top of the sun gear is actually touching the cross shaft. I also noticed the shelfs inside the diff are a little compressed. Probably effecting the placement of the diff shafts.
What the heck can I do? I tried some thicker shims on the cross shafts, but they're too thick. Can I use 1 thin and 1 thick on the same cross shaft?
Everything in the diff is new except the outdrives.
Really starting to bother me.
The truck ran well though, I just hate having a truck that sounds bad. I'd rather it look like hell and sound good then the other way around.
Went racing Sat., my rear diff had previously been making a clicking sound, while on power and turning.
I replaced all the internal gears and took it back out. SOunded good for a while and then started clicking again.
Pulled it apart and I can see the very edge of the sun gears is polished. I also noticed the lip at the top of the sun gear is actually touching the cross shaft. I also noticed the shelfs inside the diff are a little compressed. Probably effecting the placement of the diff shafts.
What the heck can I do? I tried some thicker shims on the cross shafts, but they're too thick. Can I use 1 thin and 1 thick on the same cross shaft?
Everything in the diff is new except the outdrives.
Really starting to bother me.
The truck ran well though, I just hate having a truck that sounds bad. I'd rather it look like hell and sound good then the other way around.