Just installed blue aluminum screw kit and the shiny cva's. Hope to be able to feel the difference of the lighter screws when i drive it. (Never realized how heavy the steel ones where till i help them next to each other) I tore into the diffs aswell and noticed my red gaskets were shot. I cant find anywhere you can buy just the gaskets i guess you have to buy the whole diff rebuild kit. Also, I was thinking about dremeling out the arms where they hit the outdrives at full compression. Or putting some shock spacers in. I saw that you guys are talking about shimming the sun gears as well. Mine are really loose now im guessing the brass inserts are bad. Anyone else do that?
Sorry if this was talked about before.

Venoms are good batteries for the price for sure. I've had a couple. They are even blowing up on me and melting the bullet points but still holding their 4800/5000mah like champs.

My HobbyPeople batteries are my favorites as far as economy goes.

I'd have a box full of T/P and Orion batteries if I was rich. Till then, Only my Airplanes receive the T/P care.

Where do you think they get their cells from? No country outside of east asia has human rights standards low enough to allow people near the manufacture of raw Lithium technology cells on a daily basis....especially when you consider that they probably work 18 hour days....

Watch out....they've already started restricting Neodymium, next is Lipo....

I run these. Great runtime and awesome power and they are pretty light. Not cheap though. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5C-74V-5300mAh

I have also had pretty good luck with venoms. Not the performance of my TP's though.

FYI the sc10 gear diff bushings fit and they are steel . when mine got loose and wobbly all i did was remove the bushings from the sc10 gear diff half's and installed them and they work really well

Cool Thanks. I even have a sc10 gear diff to steal from. I would assume the red gaskets fit too?

I run promatch 5800 60c stick packs great power and incredible run time for an awesome price .

They are built in America, thus whoever you speak to is in America, and there is usually a human being Local Dealer.

BGB, their cells are made by Kokam in South Korea.

Got any other questions?

Then when you go to sell it you can say never bashed! Lol! Track driven only!

I run reedy 60c 5500 mAh stick packs and love them. Great power and almost 20 minutes of run time when dully charged. I also ran one of my brothers rev-techs a few weekends ago and it was just as good, if not better. Sorry, can't remember what battery it was though.

You sell your trucks? I've never had an associated product I wanted to get rid of....

+1 on the Promatch packs. Have been running their stuff since NiMH was cutting edge, and that was a long time ago. Several guys around here have purchased after trying my packs. I would recommend the saddle packs for SC44, that way you can run stick or saddle chassis config, whichever works best for you. The pack will come with jumper wires, connectors, and balance tap all bundled together. IMO, the best thing to do for SC44 is to solder up a jumper wire, and then just solder bullet connectors to the power wires on your speedo. Then, just put battery with jumper wire connected into truck, and plug speedo control into battery. Just be sure you have the correct polarity. You only need the balance tap assembly for charging/discharging.

AXIA1091

5mmx10mmx0.5mm aluminum spacers. Good?

Ran my truck for the first time at the track with the pin mod and shimmed sun gear. It's been about a month since I last ran this truck because of the sun gear clicking so I don't have a fresh memory to compare pinned and unpinned. But I can say that I like how it ran pinned. The truck felt more consistent on acceleration and braking. It launched quick out of turns and over jumps. No hesitation just took off like a bat outta hell when I mashed on the trigger. I am also able to control my truck better in the air with the throttle and brake.
I shimmed only the sun gear side of my diff and that seemed to fix my clicking issue for about 2 batteries. But the clicking on acceleration started to slowly come back. By the end of the night it was fully back. I bought a new diff rebuild kit and will install that and this time shim both side maybe doubling each. We'll see.