From RC Cheat sheets
Ackermann - The term describing the effect of the inside front wheel turning tighter than the outside front wheel. More Ackermann means the inside wheel is turning in a tighter arc.

Less Ackermann - More aggressive steering, harder to drive at times.

More Ackermann- Less aggressive steering, easier to drive at times.

Stock the bar is aggressive and less would be better for higher bite tracks.

ok thanks
im learning everyday ill end up knowing what most thing do GGGG


btw i notist that my belt skips when i break hard on a high grip track but when i acc. ther is no skipping is that normal??
this is my 1 ever car whit a belt so i just whant to make sure ther is nothing wrong

If you don't have the chassis brace then yes. Under braking the chassis can flex and will make the belt tension slack. You might need to dial your brakes back some too.

As you probably already know, the truck has way too much steering and is twitchy by nature. All I have been doing since I got my truck is looking foe a better balance between rear traction and steering. One way of taming down or increasing steering is by adjusting the ackerman whuch in laymans terms is the turning radius of each individual tire throught a turn. The setup on these trucks looks to be aggressive and act this way.by bringing the inner tie rods back it should tame it down.....in theory! If this works we will be able to drive more consistent and aggressive.

thanks ill try turning down the break first im not so into paying 100 us$ for the brace i hate tax and hipping cost

Oh it works just ask Ryan C and Ryan M. 1st and 2nd at the Reedy race.

yea it works. I've been using one for awhile now

Who made the one you are using?

Me and a buddy of mine made a couple awhile back.

3mm carbon

Wes @ Outfrontframes?

No sir. Just 2 guys in a garage. I'd buy a pretty one if Wes made a carbon one.Never though to ask him.
My carbon is Mil-spec so its not shiny. A shiny one would match my saddle pack set-up.

I'm fighting a "drag" in my drivetrain. As I was replacing the motor ESC anyway, I found this new one has a "rotor locked" option notification that wasn't on my old one. Every once in a while when I stop, I just can't start again. If I give the vehicle a kick and pull the trigger, it goes again.

I've torn through everything and I THINK it's the clutch basket and cover. I know i saw it somewhere but haven't been able to find it. How are you guys modifying the cover so that the basket isn't rubbing? I tried a heat gun and that started to melt it instead. Boil? For tightness (not running pinned), the nut even with the top shaft, tighter or looser? This is the MTN version, not an imitator

well its a wrap then!! i just need to get my hardware and bearings together

So let me ask why the flaming of Billy? Did coke not do cherry coke cause pepsi had cherry pepsi? How bout tires , proline suburbs look alot like Jconcepts barcodes . Even you mantis your two stage pistons are the exact same as the rpm two stage that have been out for years.But still Billy gets flamed. Do we not live in a capitalistic society?I have been self employed for 18 years and seen the good and bad of business. Yes it sucks to have (ideas, thoughts, and or jobs) quote, unquote TAKEN. But my opinion is this is business 101 , who can make the best product,for the best price , and give the best service.

ASAP, you will sell a lot of them. I've had mine done for about two months, it really helped make the truck easier to drive.



A couple of weeks ago during the "Great Pin Debate" I posted that the AE setup sheets from the Reedy race were either 1) wrong or 2) incomplete. Look real close at the pictures, that billet aluminum ackerman bar is clearly visable.

Hartson's (Rick Howart built) 4th in the A at the ROAR nats truck had the stock one on backwards, so this has been out there for a while, and makes a big difference.