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11-04-2011 | 07:54 AM

#10111

1Fastpede

Tech Master

iTrader: (53)

Joined: Aug 2010

Posts: 1,757

From: McKinney,TX

marcus are you not running custom ackermann or carbon rear hub mounts?

11-04-2011 | 08:01 AM

#10112

Krio

Tech Champion

iTrader: (159)

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 5,719

From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastrc64

you might want to check that closer because the sc10 2wd with the 12mm hex and the standard sc10 4x4 wheel it is the same track width as the sc10 4x4 with hazard wheels and with hazard wheels on the sc10 2wd it is 6mm wider then the sc10 4x4 we have a sc10 2wd

so if the sc10 4x4 is at max track width using the hazard wheels you are over on the sc10 2wd

however i run 2wd kyosho scr i thought about using the hazard wheels on it they might work pretty good on it and be within limits for track width just my observation and measurements.

The sc10 2wd is the same track width as the sc10 4x4 when using their respective stock wheels OR using the associated hex conversion kit and running the stock 4x4 rims on the 2wd. Ryan Maifield ran the hex conversion kit and the +3 mm Hazard rims on his 2wd sc10 at the Roar nats.

11-04-2011 | 08:28 AM

#10113

lockmouth

Tech Master

iTrader: (33)

Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 1,388

From: DIRTY SOUTH LOUISIANA

Quote:

Originally Posted by sideways88

They make them with out the +3 offset. That's what he is using.

They are the same wheels for both 2wd and 4wd

11-04-2011 | 09:03 AM

#10114

Artikbot

Tech Regular

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 323

From: Catalunya, Spain

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly

JConcepts posted on their thread that the White Hazard is in the works for later this year. I wish I would have read that before ordering 4 sets of black. I also prefer the white wheels. Black is too black-on-black-on-black.

But I have to say I love the wider stance of the Hazards of both my SC10s.

Hey, thanks man! (woah it was already digged three pages down LOL)

Then imma wait till white Hazards are released, I think the stock ones can still last a month

All I do is train and train and train more... I'm not in a hurry for newer tires.

11-04-2011 | 09:30 AM

#10115

SS LS1

Tech Regular

iTrader: (23)

Joined: Feb 2004

Posts: 357

From: Michigan

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegatron75

I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere. It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, i you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mizchief

Metal shavings + motor seems like a bad idea to me.

I don't know but I thought it was painfully obvious that if you were to drill the top shaft in the truck that one would remove the motor from the truck before drilling and making "metal shavings"

At least I would.

11-04-2011 | 09:58 AM

#10116

Mizchief

Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2011

Posts: 2,069

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegatron75

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere.

It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.

Who said anything about the motor? or metal shavings? What the heck are you talking about?

I was refering to drilling the shaft while it's still on the truck. Drilling metal makes metal bits fly all around, if the shaft is made of any kind of iron (if steel vs. Al) then there is a good chance some of it is going to stick to the motor.

Even it it doesn't stick and the motor is sealed enough to keep the shavings out, it just doesn't seem wise to me to have them getting anywhere near the truck.

Last edited by Mizchief; 11-04-2011 at 10:14 AM.

11-04-2011 | 10:13 AM

#10117

symmetricon

Tech Elite

iTrader: (27)

Joined: Jun 2009

Posts: 4,882

From: houston

I just got a message from Manits, and he said he went to a toe in of 1 deg, then won the qualifier! He said "thanx!" for the suggestions. Last night we added more punch to his esc and tuned down the breaks, which also helped.

I know he has not made the new ackerman bar yet, but will get on it soon. I think this truck has too much ackerman built into the bar. which cannot be adjusted. That is the reason we all run our teering around 80% d/r. I for one cant wait to try a new ackerman tht will make the truck less edgy.

11-04-2011 | 11:07 AM

#10118

mulepic

Tech Master

iTrader: (21)

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 1,345

CVA lengths

I do not have a SC10 4x4 but I might be able to use the CVA's from it if I knew the lengths of them. I'm looking for a CVA that is 100mm, does anyone know the length of the SC10 4x4 CVA's (front and rear)? Thanks in advance.

11-04-2011 | 11:55 AM

#10119

Resqnu

Tech Fanatic

iTrader: (37)

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 968

From: NC

Question about SC10 4x4

Hey guys,
Sorry if this has been asked as I have been reading this topic, but it's hard to read over 10,000 posts. I just purchased a used SC10 4x4 in great condition. I plan on racing this weekend. It came with FT hexes and FT turnbuckles. It has a Novak 5.5 HV motor, MMP esc w/bec, DS 1015 servo, and some type of slipper upgrade. Is there anything I need to know about this specific set up? Also, is there any parts I should purchase to have ready on hand.

Thanks